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About adyj1

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    Proto Star

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    Gloucestershire, UK

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  1. @Len1257, I have looked back on my records and used M5 x 40mm scews. I used 'shouldered thumbscrews*' for the tightening screws that you adjust from the outside, and countersunk screws from the mirror housing back to the outer threaded nuts. * If I was doing it now, instead of the thumbscrews I'd 3d-print thumbscrew adapters for standard bolts that are normally adjusted with spanners (like Thingiverse link - although these are likely m4 size)
  2. Mistakes I have made in DSLR focusing ; - display was set to lowest brightness in camera settings (from the previous session). Yes, really -exposure wasn't set to bulb. My old Nikon wouldn't change the live view dependent on exposure, but the Canon does - and so the star in live view is as bright as the exposure time will give you. I had too short an exposure, as I was going to set that after focusing. D'oh. Hope this helps, Ady
  3. Yup, the currently active listing is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Telescope-Nikon-100-MM-For-1200-MM-/174525240117?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
  4. All I'd need to do is want to take an astro photo with fireworks. Then I'd never see them
  5. I also have a diy astro-EQ, which I used to convert an eq-5 to goto. I bought the two programmed chips and a circuit board from Tom's website for £12.70 delivered and then made it myself. Had never done anything of that level of soldering before, but it worked first time (no-one more surprised than me ). The surprises keep rolling in as it is still going strong two and a half years later . Highly recommended. Ady
  6. A 150pds with associated bits would be way too heavy for an AZ-Gti. I have both.
  7. adyj1

    New to sgl

    I have the 1145p and have used it with an AZ goto mount (although I have moved onto bigger things now) . I think it is a cracking scope for the beginner and is only really let down by the focus controls (they work OK, but can be difficult to get *exactly* right). In the beginning, don't put too much faith in the goto - it works, but in my mind you do well to learn to navigate the major objects manually before graduating to the lazier goto option. It won't be possible to see many of the fainter deep sky objects in a scope this small, so don't be disappointed if you can't see/find a
  8. And - as I understand it under the Consumer Contracts Regulations - the retailer does not have to pay for the return postage if their terms and conditions state this. (if it isn't stated, then the retailer must pay the postage). The retailer can also deduct an amount from the refund commensurate with the loss in value of the product. So if a retailer can only sell a returned item it if they discount it, then they can deduct this amount from the amount refunded. You have no legal right to buy something online, open it and then expect to return without any cost to you, unless it is fa
  9. Exactly. Which is why my post is in response to the comment "In theory, the store loses exactly nothing"
  10. I'm not sure many people would pay full price for expensive astronomy gear that had been used by someone else...
  11. I should clarify that the subscription is only if you want further updates... for new users if you don't want updates after your first year, you don't need to pay any more - you can keep using the version you've got for no extra charge.
  12. Just to add further info (so you don't have to go look at the SGP website like I did ), if you aren't upgrading from a previous version then it is $149.00 up front then $59.00 / year.
  13. Ok, so the EQ8 has a flat base, apologies - I should have looked into that . (I think the comments on using a brake disk have probably come from the picture of an eq6 in the first post, and maybe your comment of 'eventually take an EQ8'.) Looking at the information provided by FLO, it appears you have all the dimensions you need to fabricate the correct 'top plate' for your mount out of a flat metal plate - without needing a brake disk or pier adapter; - You don't need the brake disk because the EQ8 mounts on a flat surface, and the purpose of a brake disk is to provide a raised pla
  14. As Ade's pictures show, the point of using a break disk is that the centre well acts as the puck, so no puck required. If you want to use a puck (or perhaps need to because of the dimensions of your mount), you don't need a brake disk... I have brake disks for my eq5 and eq6. Different sized disks, of course. Ady
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