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adyj1

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About adyj1

  • Rank
    Star Forming

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  • Location
    Gloucestershire, UK
  1. There is an option to move the primary mirror further into the tube. You have to replace two sets of bolts (6 in total), and probably get three longer springs, but if you don't mind taking your primary mirror out (simply done with 3 screws), then it isn't difficult. I've done it to a SW 1145P small newtonian (that needed quite long , and to my SW150PDS when I fitted a baader cliklock (only an extra 10mm needed for that one). Ady - this advice is based on you having a newt. Rereading the thread, I may have got that bit wrong
  2. Are you sure? I thought this was in the free version (although now I've upgraded to 'plus', I can't check) In the picture below, I have tapped the '11.1 x 17.6' text to bring up the screen @Pazis talking about. Ady
  3. You've got it right - polar alignment sets an EQ mount up to be used accurately, and is a physical alignment achieved by physically moving the RA axis (using the latitude and elevation bolts). This is done first and there is no need to have the mount switched on. Star alignment is the setting up of the goto 'computer' (traditionally the handset in an out-of-the-box goto mount), rotating the mount around its RA and Dec axes to allow the computer to align its internal database of sky objects with where in the sky it needs to point the telescope to see those objects. The goto computer assumes accurate polar alignment, and so star alignment always needs to be done second. Ady (I hope this makes sense, I've redrafted it a couple of times for clarity, but in my experience this can sometimes make it less clear )
  4. Effectively, in APT after the platesolve where you press 'sync' you are actually doing a very accurate one-star alignment*. If you move to a different area of the sky and do a second platesolve and sync you have done a very accurate two-star alignment. Ady * I'm just remembering the days when I did manual star alignments without an eyepiece with the illuminated cross-hairs. That was really, really inaccurate
  5. I assume it would quite a job to redirect each listing after the item sells because of the automated nature of websales. How about a message at the bottom of the forum ad like; (if the link to this item on the FirstLightOptics website is broken, then the item has been sold) Or some such... Rgds Ady
  6. Don't be sorry - I actually missed EQ5 in the title (D'oh!) so it's my bad. (Luckily for me you'd missed a small bit of info, so no-one noticed and I think I've got away with it. )
  7. Can you confirm which mount it is? Ady
  8. Can I ask for clarification of the question @Telescope40 - do you mean 1) switch handset mid-session, while both mounts are running, or do you mean 2) switch handsets to the second mount once you have finished your session with the first mount? Ady
  9. James, Awesome shots - you've done well with the blended beach shot. I'm thinking I need to get me some of those biscuits Ady
  10. adyj1

    DIY Pier

    I'm not sure about 'much easier'... sounds as much effort if not more. Both have their advantages, but one problem with the poured concrete pier is how to attach the mount. With this version @dtastrohas been able to reuse his tripod base and screw - which is definitely cheap and easy
  11. adyj1

    DIY Pier

    An interesting benefit of this type of pier! Nice job. Ady
  12. Luckily for me, the AZ Goto handset had the correct connector. It looks like you may have to wire up a converter... Here are the pinouts the AZ-Gti is expecting:
  13. If you have an android phone the 'SynScanInit 2' app is really good for telling you what to type in, in the right format... (also shows the polar angle for polar alignment, if you need it) Here's an example (not mine); HTH Ady
  14. Nice timelapse ☺ What was the overall duration of your session? Ady
  15. 'was worried that I'll want a bigger scope down the line'... of course you'll want a bigger scope down the line, it's inevitable . Firstly, would you prefer buying new, or are you happy to look at second hand...? Are you looking to do widefield shots with a DSLR on the star adventurer (and maybe some DSO with a nice Samyang DSLR lens), or are you looking to use a small frac? And your £1000 budget - is that something you'll look to increase over the years as you get more familiar with things, or is that a hard stop? I'd expect the SA to be matched with a DSLR to start with, but as you don't say exactly I thought I'd check. For me a flip out screen is invaluable if you have a frac and a nice-to-have if doing widefield. It all depends where you want to spend your money... Ady
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