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adyj1

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Everything posted by adyj1

  1. Unfortunately, my guiding ambitions were put on the back burner once I realised that my EQ5 couldn't take the 150pds AND st80 guide scope. I also found I had a lot more to learn about everything else, so haven't got round to looking at it again. Hopefully I'll be able to have a go at it over the summer... Ady
  2. I agree with Mr donkey, it may be a very big minus for you that it only runs on Windows, but it's hardly a shortcoming that sets it apart from the rest...
  3. That's a good in-depth review. You have highlighted that the 'Remix' version of this Princeton-tec head torch is a bit bright in red LED mode, which is the same problem I have with my LED Lenser SE03. It is fine for me on my own, but if I am with company and look at them, the red LED is too bright. The Princeton-tec version that @AdeKing suggested (the oddly-named 'Fred') seems to have overcome that problem.
  4. Reviews read, wishlist updated Ady
  5. Louise Thanks very much for posting. I was at the talk and found it hugely interesting, but even with some smartphone pics didn't remember enough of the detail. The opportunity to watch it a few more times will mean I might stand a chance of actually understanding it.. Ady
  6. I'll take a look at that - thanks for the tip. Maybe Digicamcontrol will do, I'll give it a go. It is a shame that Nikon never released the necessary info to let APT support it Ady
  7. To correctly position polaris on the circle, the circle has to be 'the right way up'. That is unlikely to be with the mount in the home position (weights down), unless it has been adjusted to be that way. To find out where 'up' is (ok, let's call it 12 o'clock) on the polar scope, align the centre of the clock on polaris, then adjust the mount with the latitude bolts so that it moves up (or down). Rotate your RA axis so that 12 o'clock is at the top (with polaris somewhere on the vertical 12-6 line) and then this is the position you have to rotate the RA axis to every time you polar align, so you may want to mark it. Now realign the mount (without moving the RA axis) so that polaris is at the right clock position for your time /location, and you are polar aligned. Then rotate your RA axis back to the down position, and your mount is back in the home position. I hope this makes sense! Ady
  8. I've just thought, when you say 'on the same evening', do you mean at different times during the evening, or did they both go at the same time? If it wasn't both at the same time, then I'd have to add in the previous suggestion of 'connections getting looser over time' .
  9. IMHO, it's either external force, or bad luck. In that order of likelihood...
  10. Carol, What caused them to come apart? If it was mild strain on the connection that should have been taken up by the total cable run, then maybe you just need to slightly pinch the connectors to make them grip more (but so you are still able to release them easily). I completely get the signal loss arguments posted here, but for my low-end setup I use a short USB extension between the power/PC box at the bottom of my mount, and the camera/focuser on my OTA. It a) allows me to easily put away my power box and cover the OTA without taking all the wires off, and b) if the lead does catch on something when in use (for example, whilst slewing) it offers a quick release that hopefully prevents damage to more expensive kit. Ady
  11. As well as needing the tripod to hold things steady, it will also allow you to look away from the binos to refer to your planetarium software (I use SkySafari) and then look back at exactly the same view - which is quite helpful when trying to learn the sky
  12. Hehehe - unless you've owned one of the early-model Nikon, you can't really appreciate what a pain they can be. I've got a D3200 that cannot be controlled by astro software AT ALL...
  13. @Chaza, the pictures you quoted were still of the crescent moon, but because they were a quick pic taken with a smartphone on auto settings, the camera tried to balance exposure across the whole shot, over-exposing the moon and making it look more like the sun. With a camera on manual settings you could force a shorter exposure, and shooting in RAW format would also give you a chance to sort it out in software...
  14. Just to be clear, whilst BYN is a reasonable recommendation for astro dslr control software, it is my understanding that none of the dslr control software can overcome the limitation on bulb exposures for the Nikon being discussed without a cable. I'm happy to stand corrected if anyone has actually found something that works, but in the absence of that the OP's working assumption should be that he needs a cable. The Nikon matrix on APT links to instructions on how to make your own, if you are that way inclined... Ady
  15. According to the APT support table for Nikon, the D5000 requires a shutter release button to control bulb exposures - it can't be done solely via software: "Needs RS232 (serial) cable or DSUSB controller to control Bulb exposures" See APT Nikon DSLR models matrix for more info. Perhaps have a look at APT for astrophotography DSLR camera control when you do get a cable - it has some neat features. Ady
  16. I think you have proved that there is no one 'right' version - fine-tuning an excellent image is always down to personal taste. It's a good image ☺
  17. As an out-and-out lunar processing ignoramus, I like 3 as it has more 'pop'. This almost certainly means it isn't the best one... Ady
  18. Unfortunately the menu bar on the home screen is still white, and if you drag down for your notifications, that is also white. It's probably not possible to colour these screens... Thanks for the suggestion, though - it was worth a try
  19. I've used an android app called Twilight, which is ok when you are in an app, but the main status bar is white when you go to your home screen. (or at least it does in my config ) Has been good enough for AP
  20. Whereas I, on the other hand always forget something vital - different every time - no matter whether I go big or small . (Luckily I can often borrow what I need from @mikeyj1)
  21. I think the mount also has to report to the handset that it can 'officially' do eq, or the handset won't give you the choice (what @Cornelius Varleysaid) . My handset didn't prompt when plugged into an aged az-goto
  22. Can you be more specific on what you sort of thing is on your 'take everything in case you need it' list? Much will depend on weight and ease of transportation - take all the eyepieces in the case if doing visual, yes - take different scopes to get different FOVs, probably not... And how remote? Near the car, or a bit of a walk...
  23. Hmmm - I reckon, that if you could sample the same photo twice and actually make an improvement, the stacking software would be programmed to do it automatically... Many times
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