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Hi, my current telescope is Celestron ExploraScope 70AZ, thinking upgrade to skywatcher heritage 130P(came with 25mm ajd 10mm EP) , if i do, can i use the eyepiece (4mm) and x3 barlow from my old celestron on the 130P?
One more question, i ordered a eyepiece camera Svbony SV105, i wonder what is magnification of this camera and how it work to change magnification.
Note: This scope is in the USA, so international shipping may prohibit a sale. However, without the heavy Scopeguard case the shipping cost will be substantially reduced.
I can provide a full frame image taken with this scope if anyone is interested.
Reduced to £3155 for the complete package. I will consider offers, but this is already close to my bottom price.
I’ve decided to sell my Takahashi Epsilon Ɛ-180. The scope and optics are in good cosmetic and optical shape. There are a few minor tool marks around the collimation screws but otherwise no issues. The primary mirror is centered with a Catseye Hotspot.
The scope will come with the Takahashi corrector, rings and top plate ($457 add-on), front cover, Scopeguard case ($500 add-on), BT Technologies dovetail bar ($150 add-on) (has a blemish but is super solid), Astrozap dew shield and cap with focus mask ($175 ad-on), Precise Parts Tak corrector to M48 adapter ($110 add-on), the Takahashi collimation tools, an M68x1 male to M54x0.75 female and a M54x0.75 male to 2" compression ring adapter ($100? add-on) (these allow you to use the scope visually with 2" eyepieces.)
I replaced the stock focuser (included) with an Optec TCF-Leo focuser with temp probe. With the included scope adapter and Tak corrector adapter this is a $1400 add-on.
Total new cost = £5900
All of this for £3155 plus shipping.
By Gary Shaw
Hi All I’m considering purchasing an 8”aperture, f3.8 newtonian ( primarily for EAA) from Orion UK and would appreciate any input or feedback from anyone familiar with the product, the company or the purchasing process - and how to assess the compatibility with my current cameras.
This is would be a step up from my current equipment and entails selecting components that I’ve never used and know little about such as a rack and pinion focuser and components (ACU-3L), and coma corrector (Wynne Corrector). I’ve added links to these items below. I’m also feeling unsure of how to mate up my Zwo 178 and 294 cameras to the 3” focuser and whether there will be an acceptable match between the scope optics and my sensors.
I’m sure the folks at Orion UK will assist with all this but I’d sure welcome input from the Stargazer's Lounge community before starting the dialog with Orion UK.
thank you in advance for any help you can provide!
ACU-3L Focuser selection Info: https://www.orionopt...sers.html#ACU3L
Wynne Corrector selection Info: https://www.orionopt...torsfittin.html
I'm trying to figure out the cause of these weird star shapes I'm getting with my 130pds. I had them before, but someone narrowed it down to being pinched optics. So I loosened the primary retention clips, which seemed to fix the problem. Now that I've been able to get back out for another night of imaging, they seem to be back again! I made sure that the primary retention clips are still loose - should they be touching the mirror or not? I've also made sure that the primary collimation locking screws aren't done up too tight as well. Collimation through my cheshire looks to be spot on to me. Here's my image of Andromeda with the odd stars in question:
Hope someone with more experience than I, which basically means anyone that has successfully collimated a Newtonian, can answer a couple of compound questions I have based on my first and only attempt at secondary collimation of my SkyWatcher Flextube 250.
1) All three of my secondary collimation screws were extremely snug before I did anything and I was only able to comfortably turn them counter-clockwise. Is this normal? Do I need to loosen all three screws first before I can properly start collimation? Should I be turning any screw beyond "snug"?
2) Before collimating, I placed a yellow sheet inside my OTA opposite my focuser tube and I placed a red sheet between my secondary and primary. The view this gave through my focuser tube was of a red circle surrounded by a partial yellow ring (the secondary mirror stalk blocking a portion of this yellow annulus). While independently turning each of the secondary collimation screws counter-clockwise I looked down the focuser tube (both with and without a sight tube installed) expecting to see some change in the shape of the red area (more or less circular) and/or the yellow area (less or more even thickness). I turned the screws no more that 2 complete revolutions. I did not perceive any appreciable difference in what I saw and I turned each screw back (clockwise) to their original tightness before working with another of the screws. Does it make sense that I didn't perceive any change? Should I have turned the screws more revolutions? Should I have loosened more than one at a time?
Very confused and looking for your help. Thanks