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Found 29 results

  1. Morning folks, I'm planning a bit of a change in my imaging setup and after much thought I need some input from others if you can. I want to upgrade my setup, currently a SW 130pds HEQ5 with a 60mm guide scope imaging with a modded 500D. I often find my imaging time limited but am planning the build of a mini obsy to make longer sessions more practical. Would mounting a SW72 ed on top of the 130pds be over kill to get an dual imaging system going and increase the data volume, both with a canon 500d and a simple finder guider, the mount should be ok with this. Or just keep the status quo and add an auto focuser for longer single scope sessions that can be more automated in keeping good focus with the lighter setup. The dual version I believe would end up having wider field images as I would probably have to add the higher resolution from the longer FL to the shorter FL images. Any 2p's worth would be appreciated I just want to achieve more productive sessions. Thanks Campbell
  2. Hi guys Still waiting for some clear nights but in the mean time.what cc would u all recommend I've read a few posts and I'm still undecided . Skywatcher 0.9 ? Baader mpcc multi mkiii ? Thanks
  3. Afternoon all, This is my first attempt at putting together an RGB image and I'm after some advice on imaging M101 (and RGB in general). So far I have gathered the following data of M101: Ha 20 x 900 (5 hours total exposure) RGB 24 x 300 (2 hours each filter at 1x1) This was collected on a 130pds with an Atik 314L+ With some clear skies forecast for tonight and possibly tomorrow I need to decide what data to add to the above. Would I be best off increasing the amount of RGB data or just start adding Luminance into the mix? I read somewhere that Luminance data can wash out the colour? If I was to add Luminance data to this set, would it be best to match the exposure times of the RGB as a starting point? Does anyone use a light pollution filter with LRGB exposures? I suffer from moderate light pollution and have a skywatcher LPF from when I used to image with my DSLR that I could use. What amount of Ha data should I be aiming for? Is there some guidelines on what ratios to work to on Ha,L and RGB? Is there a point where quantity of data no longer improves an image and its all about the quality instead?I'm quite patient so don't mind building an image over the course of many nights (in case its relevant to the questions). Thanks in advance! Rob
  4. Hi All, I recently upgraded to ASI mono and my Canon left to collect the dust and I am not happy about it. I spend a few hours around my scope thinking how to attach my Canon and start using it alongside ASI, which, currently will block any view from the dovetail. I think to rotate the scope in the rings, so ASI and Guiding scope will be placed at the bottom and place Cannon on the top dovetail. I am not sure if ASI or Guidescope will not hit the mount while slewing.... And not sure how to place Canon on the dovetail. Has anyone tried such a set up with Newtonian? P.S. If I will like the result, I think of Samyang lens for later...
  5. Hi Guys, I know, 130PDS is not the right tool for Planetary AP, - but "you use what you have, don't you?" I wonder if someone has managed to get decent or maybe even amazing pics of our neighbour planets with 130PDS? Please be free to share you planetary pics below and share your knowledge with others in this field. I tried on Jupiter several times with and without barlow and the results were very... I mean, VERY bad I even afraid to show them but till last night, As I managed to get something recognizable as a Jupiter at last I am still a beginner and my first 2 cents below. 130PDS, ZWO ASI224MC, 3xBarlow, SharpCap Gain=400
  6. Hello all, I started a while ago a topic to show my progress on this target over a couple of years. Now I think I have a final image for this season. I will have to move soon and the clouds don't seem to let me see it again until then. Maybe if I get to travel to a dark site, but then I will go full resolution. Equipment used is a 130PDS with SW coma corrector, ASI1600MMC camera cooled to ~-15C, put on an AZ-EQ5, guided with OAG. Guiding accuracy was reported between 1.3" and 2" depending on the seeing. The window frames only allowed me to see the target for ~2.5h/night. Some nights had clouds, some not. Luminance was taken during 6 or 7 nights for a total of 156x180s frames at unity gain, through a visual CLS filter. That means 7h 48min. The visual CLS seemed to provide better results than the L (IR/UV cut) filter and the coma corrector didn't seem to add chromatic aberrations. Each RGB channel is made by ~60x60s at unity gain too. Ha, if I remember well, is just above an hour worth of 60s frames at 300 gain. I resized the images to 50% since they didn't provide more detail at full resolution due to poor seeing. Processing was done with StarTools and GIMP. Some star reduction. Red/white light pollution. If I missed other significant details that you're interested in, please tell. 16bit .png here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByhJ_xuQxcnjWHU1RWM0OVFmNG8 Or astrobin: http://www.astrobin.com/313011/ Thanks for looking and clear skies! Alex
  7. Hi everyone. I've not posted in a while - combination of summer, laziness, and very poor weather. However, I am back! I recently gave M45 a go. My main problem is local light pollution combined with being surrounded by tall houses, which means I only get something like 2-4 hours of visibility on a target if it ever gets in the right part of the sky. As such my first session only bagged me around 80 minutes of subs. Last night I managed to get another 100 minutes for a total of 3 hours. Coupled with this I learned a couple of new noise reduction techniques courtesy of Doug German's Youtube channel (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvL...DVQr1JDptAsbQg) I recommend anyone new to this and processing in Photoshop takes the time to go through his absolutely brilliant tutorials!! Anyway, here we are. I know I still pushed the noise up too high in the end, but I really wanted a hint of the dust, so I decided the tradeoff was worth it. Thanks for looking, and please do try the Flickr link to the full-resolution image as the small version here is very compressed. Hamish / sagramore CLICK HERE for Flickr link for full resolution version Messier 45 (Pleiades) 2016-11-07 and 2016-11-29, near Swindon, England Gear: * Skywatcher 130-PDS with 0.9x coma corrector (585 mm, f/4.5) * Skywatcher NEQ6-Pro Synscan * Canon EOS 550D (unmodified) and Skywatcher 2" LP filter * ZWO ASI120-MC guide camera * Skywatcher Startravel 80 guide scope Acquisition & Processing: * AstrophotographyTools (APT) and PHD2 guiding with dithering * (15 + 21) x 300s = total 180 minutes @ ISO 800 in two sessions * Flats, library darks (12-14 C and 7-12 C), library bias * Stacked in DeepSkyStacker and post-processed in Photoshop CC 2015 with Gradient Xterminator
  8. alexbb

    NGC891

    Here I have a quick session of NGC891. It was shot during multiple nights between targets, 1-2 hours each night. It consists of almost 6h of luminance and 40min each RGB. 120s subs. I only shot 1/2 ROI so no larger FOV. I think I could think of a larger and longer scope for this small targets. Clear skies! Alex
  9. Well i actually managed to get out last night for a short time, i would class it as a clumsy night managed to bump the scope twice and had to re-do the alignment, it was so cold all my fingers felt like thumbs Anyway i eventually managed to get 3 x 5 mins exposure on Rosette with Skywatcher 130P-DS Canon 600d (unmodified) Iso 400 PHD2 (still not figured this out yet) also had the Baader UHC filter left on the end of the nose piece (forgot about that) so not sure whether this helped or hindered? any hints/tips welcome to help me improve on this, Thanks for looking,
  10. Hi all. Some of you may have noticed that I just posted a thread with M45 in it. Well, once M45 went behind my house I didn't want to waste all the time I spent setting the scope up and aligning it for the night so I managed to grab 1 hour on the double cluster, Caldwell 14. I know it's "just" a star cluster, but it's always one of my favourite observing targets and I think it's just simply beautiful to look at and, having learned some new processing techniques, I think it's got some gorgeous colours to it too! Thanks for looking Hamish / sagramore CLICK HERE for a Flickr high resolution version Caldwell 14 - The Double Cluster 2016-11-29, near Swindon, England Gear: * Skywatcher 130-PDS with 0.9x coma corrector (585 mm, f/4.5) * Skywatcher NEQ6-Pro Synscan * Canon EOS 550D (unmodified) and Skywatcher 2" LP filter * ZWO ASI120-MC guide camera * Skywatcher Startravel 80 guide scope Acquisition & Processing: * AstrophotographyTools (APT) and PHD2 guiding with dithering * 12 x 300s = total 60 minutes @ ISO 800 * Flats, library darks (7-12 C), library bias * Stacked in DeepSkyStacker and post-processed in Photoshop CC 2015 with Gradient Xterminator
  11. AlastairW

    IC1805 Heart Nebula

    From the album: Messier and NGC Objects

    IC1805 Skwatcher 130pds ASI1600mm-c (-15) 7nm Baader Ha 10x5min lights No darks, flats or bias
  12. Hi Guys, Long story short, - which one to buy for my NEQ6 mount? Now the long story: I am quite a beginner in this field and I saw quite a few similar posts... the main question is which one to take? 130PDS or 150PDS for AP. As I found out, 90% comments suggest going for 130PDS, as the main disadvantages of 150PDS are: it is a larger sail to catch the wind and it has a smaller field of view... But, I have managed to get a second-hand NEQ6, (not EQ5 or even EQ3 like most of the posts are about), and planning to plant a pillar for it in my garden, and usually, it's not windy in my place. As per field of view, My garden faces South, from South London, so of course, I will re-start with Orion and Andromeda in Autumn. And it looks like only Andromeda will not fit in on my Canon 1300D sensor in full and I am sure the rest objects are smaller than M31 So I am willing to go for 150PDS, However, most of the posts are advising for 130PDS... and it's confusing me at the moment... P.S. I do have 10" DOB for around 18 months, Light pollution hasn't allowed me to see Andromeda through it properly, so I have attached my Canon to it and WOW! This is how this 10" toy hooked me up on AP... and after 10", - I afraid 130PDS will be a bit too small in aperture for my back garden.
  13. My current setup is a 130pds, mounted on a HEQ5 PRO. I have been using it with an unmodified Canon DSLR which is going OK so far, but I do like the look of EAA as an option. Do you think my current rig lends itself to EAA (also considering getting an 80ED), obviously the bits that's missing is the camera. Is there a budget camera <£200, or an older model that I should look for 2nd hand. There are a few doing the rounds on ebay and .astrobuysell.com/uk/ although the 2nd hand cameras appear to be rather old. Cheers Jon
  14. AlastairW

    Jupiter

    From the album: Solar System

  15. So the last week was kind and I managed another couple of sessions under the stars. The lack of dark nights has made this a labor of love indeed. I have gathered 5 hours for each Ha pane so I have managed one of my bonus goals. Total integration time so far is 17 Hours: I may not add any more data to this until the darker skies return :sad: Project status Stage 1 - Complete Stage 2 - Complete Stage 3 - Skipped Stage 4 - 0% Complete Stage 5 - Complete
  16. So I think I may be dreaming but there has been lots of clear nights here recently (and an almost whole week of clear skies forecast to come!) This has meant that I have been able to gather lots of data. I have completed gathering the HA and OIII data for stage one and two. Total time so far is 12 Hours 30 minutes total integration time. I have done a quick process of the data in a HOO palette I am quite happy so far. One side seems lighter than the other so I'll have to work on how I produce the mosaic I can't start the SII stages as I haven't purchased that filter yet so I'm going to press on with the HA and OIII and see if I can hit my bonus goals for these filters of 5 hours per mosaic pane to produce an image of 20 hours integration time in a HOO Palette Stage one - Completed Stage two - Completed
  17. I think I'm done with the Hydrogen layer for these nebulae. I started 3 weeks ago a 4 panel mosaic with the 130PDS. I shot around 2h on each panel in 180s subs at 300 gain. And recently I thought to lower the noise in the darker areas and I shot another 7h with the Canon 300 F4 L and I combined the dark areas. I see now that I should have taken more frames with the scope as the quality of the image taken through the lens is way lower. Anyway, I still combined them a bit. The plan is to add LRGB too in the future and perhaps some O3 as well. Full resolution 16 bit .png here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByhJ_xuQxcnjNjdyMUpqSkJFYUU And, in order: the image taken with the lens, the one with the scope and the blend. Thoughts are welcomed. Clear skies, Alex
  18. Hi everyone, am thinking of buying a 130 PDS for imaging with a DSLR! Just wondering what experiences people have had with it. Any focusing problems? Image examples etc. thanks everyone! ??
  19. I know, 130PDS is not the best scope for planetary AP. But I just wanted to share my beginner's results. Both taken on 5th and 6 of May 2018, using 130PDS, x3 Barlow and ZWO ASi224MC. SharpCarp > Autostakert+Registrax Thanks for looking
  20. Good evening to you all, Last night I acquired 30x180s on each RGB so now I have a total of 37x180s each RGB, 60x60s lum from last year, 55x180s lum from this year and some shorter exposures for the core. That means ~5:33h of RGB and 3:45h of lum. All taken with the ASI1600MMC and the 130PDS newton, horrible gradients when using the light pollution filter. I mean really horrible and uneven gradients. I also have a horizontal line at about 1/4 from the top reflected from somewhere. The image below was stacked and merged with APP, I also made a synthetic lum from the RGB and included it in the final lum file. Processing can be improved, for sure, but I have also another thought. Would maybe another 6h of luminance data be worthy on this target? Or should I move to something else, maybe M3 or M92? Clear skies, Alex Astrobin: https://www.astrobin.com/341636/ Edit: almost 4 more hours of lum. Edit2: 7 more hours of lum.
  21. Decided to put cooling fans on my newtonians a 200pds and a 130pds ,used a 120mm on the 200 and a 80mm on the 130pds ,i used, Be Quite silent Wings2 fans they use rifle bearings and are so quite German made, i did the 200 first and was impressed with this make so ordered the same make for the 130 pds it comes with a lead with four wires but only needed neg ang pos so snipped other two out , made a disc from plastic and cut out around collimation screws on primary then used velcro to attach to OTA fitted a 2.1mm dc socket on to the disc then bought a usb lead to 2.1mm barrel though i may fit another 2.1mm socket on my power box and use 12v either way it works ,i used a dimmer on the 200pds but it doesnt need it and wouldn't use it again but its fitted now so will leave in place.
  22. Hi, While imaging with my Skywatcher 130 PDS I have discovered that I have some tilt in the focuser. I can see this while trying to collimate, I seem to get a shift when I change the focus. I believe that I can correct this by taking apart the focuser. Does anyone have any experience with taking apart the focuser? and how to correct the tilt? Thank you for your time and feedback. Fakhri PS I hope I posted this in the right place.
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