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Everything posted by Alfian

  1. Well done Jules. Getting back into the groove is good.
  2. At one point I had both Mak127 and a SW 100ED. Foolishly I never tried them side by side. So much depends on seeing that I cannot clinically say that one was better than the other in terms of revealing a particular lunar feature. However my overall impression was that there was little to choose other than the fact that I found the ED100 gave an image that was more pleasing and involving to the eye (not necessarily any more revealing) even though the 127 had more aperture. Interestingly my Tal100r (F10) even though it shows some CA is a wonderful lunar scope and my Vixen 80mm (11.4) is a crack
  3. To see a launch at Baikonur, now that would be really something, a journey of a lifetime. That would be one very impressive Steppe ......
  4. I've seen a couple of typhoon displays and know what you mean but in terms of noise that you can feel I remember watching a Vulcan display at RAF Finningley back in the early 90's. The sound of those 4 engines on take off was like a deep crackle that hit you at gut level. Then comes the famous Vulcan howl. So sad its not flying now.
  5. Yes, I agree. The added bulk and weight is very noticeable and this in turn affects the balance of the 'scope. If planetary is your main aim then I'd look to spend money on another EP.
  6. Couldn't agree more. Given the chequered history of Mars projects I've not held my breath quite as much since the Apollo days. Brilliant achievement.
  7. That's an interesting one to let the mind play with. I've just been reading that M31 has an estimated rotational velocity of 225 km/s at 1,300 light years from the core, so things are never quite where we think they are to say the least. A "snapshot in time" and the idea of what we mean by "now" gets very blurry ... err ...I think.
  8. From memory, I think standard plossls worked just fine in the 1.25" focuser. I used a Revelation (GSO) 32mm, Vixen NPL 15mm and I think the older SW 9mm 66 degree worked OK but unfortunately that was not such a good EP. My ES 20mm Maxvision wouldn't come to focus which was a shame as its a nice EP The Revelation 2.25x barlow also worked OK. The Tal1 is a very nice scope with very good optics. When I had mine I did some work on it to try to upgrade it to something like a more modern spec' scope. Looking back this was a mistake and I think it would have been better to accept it as it was using E
  9. Some very decent binos can be picked up in S/H shops/charity shops. In the last couple of years or so I've picked up mint Japanese Greenkat 10x50s for £25 and Asahi Pentax 8x30s in v/g condition for £20. Both have really nice optics, are very sturdy well built binos in quality hard cases. The Pentax binos are really handy to have round my neck when out for a walk. Not much opportunity at the moment for browsing the shops but when the time comes its worth a look - sometimes we get lucky.
  10. Wow indeed, that looks near mint. A capable 'scope.
  11. Mesmerising, really draws you in. Well done.
  12. Stunning Nigella, Wow! Great images. Like so many other people, the aurora is on the bucket list.
  13. I've occasionally come across books and articles where the author feels compelled to jolly people along as if by not doing so the reader is going to lose concentration when, at least for me, it has the opposite effect. There is a place for humour and the light touch and maybe in fairness its difficult to get right. I'm not a writer/author so perhaps I shouldn't judge too harshly.
  14. I've been perusing the latest versions of distros on distrowatch but not tried any yet. When I've got a system that does everything I want and is quick and good to use, then I'm cautious about jumping too quickly. Mind you its easy to play around with something first without going the whole hog.
  15. There's an article here that might help. I've not tried this out on my 6/8 SE mount but I'm assuming the accessory output socket in a car would work, with a long enough lead. Our Vauxhall its rated at 12v with max of 120, so about 10 amps. https://www.nexstarsite.com/OddsNEnds/PowerSources.htm
  16. I have the Avant mount which I bought with the little 114/500 reflector. It works just fine with the 114 and also my 102 Mak and a 90 f5.5 refractor. The lightweight tripod and extension are just that, lightweight, just as suitable as a photo' mount. It would be possible to put the avant on a heavier bettet tripod but the lightweight setup idea then starts to slip. The Avant is marketed with a 130p f5 reflector. In my opinion this pushing it too much but I'll admit to being one who doesn't tolerate well a scope taking several seconds to settle every time its nudged.
  17. An interesting one. The AZ4 with steel legged tripod, which is definitely worth having over the aluminium item) is quite a substantial mount. It does not have slomo controls so you have to nudge it or steer it manually. I found with a telescope that has some length or bulk to it (4" F9 refractor/ 6" f5 reflector) this is easy and not a problem. Lighter scopes need a more delicate touch. This is down to the AZ4s friction bearings suffering a lttle bit of "stiction". Its not a problem as such and with a minor strip down, cleaning and regreasing with a quality teflon based grease can be noteably
  18. I like refractors and a 90mm f10 (900mm) achromat makes for a very capable scope for anyone let alone a young starter. Pretty much bullet proof and easy on eyepieces too. My concern here is that they often come with inadequate mounts and usefully need a decent altaz mount (az4?) or an eq3/2 if an EQ mount is preferred. This bumps the budget up. I've had a Heritage 130p mini dob and although the mount is very simple and the helical focuser very basic the whole thing works surprisingly well. Optically it turns in a very respectable performance and for this it seems to have gained a small army of
  19. Heck, thats sad news. The unfortunate thing is that the 100r focuser and diagonal is something of a bespoke item and not easily replaced, mind you, Tals are solidly engineered and maybe if you know someone with engineering skills they can get it corrected.
  20. Its a nice problem ti have but there are so many flavours (distros) of linux to choose from now, its only by playing with a few that you get one that suits all your needs and is reliably fully functional. For me these last few years has been MX linux but I've had a play with Zorin recently and although it has a slightly bare bones look to it, its actually pretty good.
  21. Well done that man! The 130EQ focuser illustrated doesn't get any better than that. I suspect the missing item is the one in the bottom red square. If the thread on the focuser tube is a male T2 then its an easy fix but from memory I think the thread is coarser than that and may be a different size altogether. When I had mine, I contemplated changing the focuser but on the Celestron, with its cosmetic plastic trim, its not quite that simple. Not an impossible job but I decided not to bother and upgraded to another 'scope. In terms of spare parts Astroboot are useful but at the moment are close
  22. A useful idea to work with is exit pupil size, that is the aperture divided by magnification. Your 250p (1200) with say a 20mm EP will give 60x and this will give just over a 4mm exit pupil. An eyepiece yielding 300x will give 0.83mm exit pupil. I find with my slightly aging eyes that anything much below 0.5mm and I run into problems with seeing floaters but by this time the image is notiecably dimming. The point here is that pushing magnification to the max is not always a good thing and in terms of seeing detail although object image size is smaller, often less is more so to speak. That said
  23. The 130EQ is 1.25" (only) focuser. Casting my mind back to when I had a 130EQ I think the part you might be referring to the eyepiece holder that screws onto the focuser tube. If that is so all you will have at the moment is the end male threaded section. Is that so?
  24. Yes, I've found that in SW Scotland there is little point in looking at forecasts beyond a couple of days. Even very locally it can be pouring with rain in one place and just a few miles down the road its dry all day. Depending on where the prevailing weather is coming from its often funneled through the hills leaving the coast with better conditions, ie you get a local micro climate. I hope very much it stays good for you all.
  25. Do you think that possibly the Tals might have gone back to the iron age? They have that rugged rustic feel to them. No flourite though!
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