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About happy-kat

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  1. You've got good directions to face, East is your best bet on a static mount keeping below 60°. I would use the 50mm at f4 (slight stopping down can help improve star shape quality). 400/50 gives a start of 8 seconds to try them work shorter is needed. ISO 1600, raw. All in camera noise reduction turned off. Lights, flats and dark flats. Find a star where a third intersects to focus on, this spreads focus across the lens. If going for m42 try to get it in the middle of the frame to allow for cropping the edges away as they'll show field rotation. I use an intervalometre or dslr contr
  2. That's a lovely capture and must have been very pleasing after so many years since the first.
  3. Using my mobile phone there is nothing obviously wrong, the right star has a violet centre but what are you seeing that prompted this post?
  4. The camera has full sensitivity on all three channels in the IR zone and I'm loathe to lose that even at the cost of not getting sharp focus with it. I'm not fussed about colour accuracy during the day or night, more interested in picking up what I can't see.
  5. Flats with Dark Flats really help. Darks with a DSLR can just add noise. Can always experiment with your DSLR darks when stacking.
  6. The winner of the last imaging process challenge (super image) used PS and shared the steps they had used for a particularly tricky bit. Affinity, GIMP, Paintshop Pro and PS I think are pretty similar and there are some processing functions in SIRI which are useful. Processing gets easier the more it's done. Unfortunately not all videos on YT are great. Keep at it, it's a learning curve and don't throw old data away as I often revisit old data if I pick up a new skill to see if I can improve an old data process.
  7. Thanks Dave. There's no room for a IR block, but I'll check if one of those dot sized blocker would fit. I've the default ZWO 150° and a fujion 180° degree lens, neither have any backfocus space available. I'm ok with the IR sensitivity.
  8. Something interesting to see if can do. Got one yesterday and a semi cloudy one today, but I'll go read the link as I'm likely going all wrong as we're trying it in an approach we can sustain here.
  9. It might be a case of more data needed to be able to stretch out the extended detail Though when comparing star positions your image looks wider still. I did select a canon 700d as there wasn't a 650d in the list but I think the sensor and pixel size are the same, I think I'll check again. Edit. Same size pixels
  10. Got very lucky, have had a camera setup inside testing how it works and on test 4 caught a fireball! 28/02/2021 a horizontal crop of a 25 second image 150° lens on a ASI462MC 25 second exposure facing East. Using a W10 7 inch tablet running AllsyEye. Although the colour balance is more natural on this image in going to revert back to the original settings as on checking images there is more detail captured in the default settings even though quite pink as the camera is very infrared sensitive. logged as Event 1185-2021 on UKMON
  11. Just picking up on what to process with and for example this super image was processed by hand, though using PS it's likely GIMP would have the tools. They even kindly shared the method for taming the bright star. https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/372988-iko-ic59-ic63-ghost-of-cassiopeia-data-winners/?do=findComment&comment=4048780 A quick Google found a post of topaz denoise (mentioned in linked post) in GIMP.
  12. I was only thinking that if going by bicycle then the base does not fold flat.
  13. Will you be observing from home or will you need to travel or walk somewhere every time you want to observe?
  14. You can make a collimation cap from an old 35mm film canister.
  15. I use a heritage 130p with it on the floor and I sit on a garden chair. Sometimes I raise it up by placing the whole lot on an upturned bucket.
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