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DaveL59

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Everything posted by DaveL59

  1. oh I so know the pain of that, better yet it was very recessed and 16 petals on a different lens (there's a thread in lounge -> photography on that IIRC) so took me quite a while to piece back together. You do develop a technique after several failed attempts tho, so hopefully next time I won't have too many troubles. For cleaning up lenses like that I tend to remove the glass elements and then pop them in a tub with suitable cleaning fluid - peroxide for example (to kill off any fungus) and then rinse gently with soapy water using fingertips to tease over the surface. Follow up with a good lens cleaning fluid and refit. Just be careful not to get grease from the lens body onto the glass as that can be a PITA to get properly clean again. While apart, not a bad idea to also strip all the old grease away (white spirits work) and then re-grease with fresh synthetic heliciod grease. Saves any future fungus issues from the old grease. You would need to be careful dismantling the mechanicals so you can realign the focus threads accurately to be sure you can hit focus (near & infinity). Mark and measure etc and take lots of pics during the process to aid reassembly. With luck and care you'd have a lens that's nice and clean and silky smooth like new
  2. If all you need is power via a USB connector then they'd be fine. If you need to also use the data connection then you'd need a USB hub that can then also link to your PC or controlling device. Power uses only 2 pins on the USB plug, tho some USB power outlets may also connect the data cables too in order to spoof a device that it is connected so it would enable charging or fast charging.
  3. I have one of these in the car, gives me 4xUSB and 3 or 4 (can't recall which now) ciggy outlets, the USB ones capable of 2A output. Means phone and other accessories (I have a few like HUD GPS etc) can all be easily hooked up. Had it a few years now and it works very well. Note that its USB power and not a data connection/hub tho. PS, similar to this one Eletrand 120W 3-Socket Cigarette Lighter Adapter, 12V/24V DC Outlet Splitter with 4 USB Ports Car Charger for Phone,Tablet, Android, Samsung,Galaxy, Note, HUAWEI,GPS, Dashcam, Radar Detector: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics I use right-angle USB adaptors so that it would ft into the space I wanted and make USB connections easier.
  4. ahh hence my comment about being enough clearance. I either buy lenses that pass or block IR according to use case, in the past from Treeye on Ali for example, or if I need to add IRcut later to a spare lens I want to try I've glued one of these on the back end of the M12 lens if a switchable IRcut lens mount isn't usable. 5x 9.5mm Optical UV-IR Cut Blocking Filter for Camera astronomy Lens | eBay Of course for that the lens would need a recess in the body where the filter can be fitted so there's no extra protrusion if the lens to sensor gap is very tight. Like this one For the CCTV modules I've used there's usually 2-4mm so no issues. You can buy lenses that are for "action cams" that have an IR filter already added of course but you'd need to be selective as some will be like this one So you'd then also need to check the specs to verify the rear focus distance to see if it'd suit your camera.
  5. wow! Great capture there @happy-kat, here it was all cloud and mist so not been a chance of seeing anything much at all for ages. Are you using an IRcut filter on the camera/lens at all? If needs be you can get a small glass one to fit on the camera side of the lens (assuming here that its an M12 one and there's enough clearance there) which will improve the colour when there's some natural light. Probably not possible to use a switchable one unless the camera would lend itself to swapping the lens mount and you'd then need to be able to send the switch pulse in order to flip the filter in/out. For the CCTV module and USB webcam ones I'm using they have IRcut on the lens or lens mount respectively, so daytime views look "normal". Likely I do lose a little at night as a result but not enough I think to drive me to arranging a means to switch, especially where I have IR illuminators that cause some big impact when the IRcut filters are not present.
  6. I see Reolink do a Go that has SIM and also a solar option. No experience of them however so can't recommend on that basis. Annke and others like Hikvision and Dahua do outdoor dome type cameras that are LAN usually and some PoE. The better design are this type Less issues with webs etc than the ones where the IR lights are spread around the camera, tho totally separate are much better if placed a couple feet to the side, tho you can't do SmartIR that way unless you can also do some internal mods to achieve that.
  7. would it have a mains to 12v PSU at all? A lot of the small CCTV units will draw 300-700mA especially if they have IR illumination, WiFi and any motion sensing/alerting. I have a few small cube type cameras attached to my CCTV but they are driven by 12v PSU and in some cases have separate IR floods. These are very good and can be flashed with Hikvision firmware if you need, smart IR so give good image and don't overexpose the face ANNKE I61DR HD IP Camera, White/Black: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools No SIM option however but does have WiFi and can accept a micro-SD to record locally. They are however not weatherproof.
  8. you could use a passive splitter and then hang a 5v PSU at the local end, using the splitter to take the power off the LAN cable to a regular plug. HSeaMall 1 Pair Passive Power over Ethernet RJ45 PoE: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics I use this type for my CCTV cameras since I don't run PoE switches and on a couple I also have an IR illuminator doubled off the same link, there's a few suppliers and they work fine. A smidge of dielectric grease on the LAN connection helps it resist moisture issues. You would have to consider volt-drop if running a long LAN cable tho.
  9. Ouch that's not good at all and easily done when rushing about. It's a shame they don't engineer in some sort of loading/feedback control so that it stops the motor to prevent damage, much as they've had to fit to electric car windows to prevent injury. It can't be beyond the ability of the designers, more down to cutting costs and profit margins I expect.
  10. Hi and welcome Barry. This thread should help Spc900Nc Webcam In Windows 10? - Discussions - Cameras - Stargazers Lounge You will probably find that the w10 camera app will just show a black screen or not report it as a camera, but SharpCap will pick it up fine and show an image.
  11. What are you planning to drive with those Mark, the rudder on a large-scale model of the titanic?
  12. That's a bargain price, I have a similar one that cost around double and was sold as a car jump start pack, works great for the EQ5-SynScan tho I added a 12v buck converter between it and the mount just in case. Mine gives a no-load output of 16-ish volts and I didn't want to risk blowing the mount up.
  13. funnily enough I do have a few flat ethernet cables in use here and they're holding up just fine with CCTV cameras hanging off them and power running via passive splitters. There was a reason for doing that tho - its easier to pass the cable round a uPVC closing section where regular cable wouldn't work, saves the need to drill holes where I'm not allowed to I did pull up an installer where I used to work tho when they ran flat supposedly cat6 cable as well as poorer CCA round cable. Didn't make any difference tho as the buildings dept just told them to carry on. Get a cheap contractor in and you gets rubbish huh. There were intermittent issues on some of those cables from commissioning to the point where I left and I expect there still are...
  14. I still have a can of freon tho there was not much left in that last time I looked which was several years ago. Was great for cleaning tape heads but of course you can't get that stuff at all anymore.
  15. I'd agree regarding the mount, you'd probably find that it just about handles the 130 it came with, anything bigger/heavier and even if you could get it on there the tripod/mount would struggle. Regarding using the starsense app on another scope, this thread may help, there's a few of us who've done it Starsense Explorer Stand Alone Conversion - Discussions - Mounts - Stargazers Lounge
  16. I found those on the bay Dave but wasn't looking for that nut as it wouldn't be a lot of use in the TAL-M clutch assembly.
  17. You could try Servisol contact cleaner and then once dried out apply some dielectric grease that will prevent moisture getting into the contact area and leading to corrosion. I use this for the LAN, UNC and power connections to my CCTV cameras to good effect and the outdoor ones have been running for a couple years with no issues.
  18. The problem will be to find a reducer that has a long enough thread to work in this situation. I posted earlier with M8/M6 threaded rod and a coupler that would allow it to be screwed onto an M8 rod. I'd see if I could get the original handle threaded to M8 and then those 2 parts would fot on the end and do what's needed I believe. Do you have any machining shops around you at all? If not then getting a tap & die set may be an alternative, I seem to use mine quite a bit since I started fettling Binos, scopes and now camera lenses.
  19. I've had the phone almost vertical on its side edge and it seems to have carried on working ok. That said I have the phone holder on a tube ring near the front so when I rotate the scope to get the eyepiece at a more usable angle then that'd re-orientate the phone closer to flat/horizontal of course.
  20. cool, tho I do think you'll need a nut or pair of on the threaded rod in order to pinch the clamping collar. The M6 thread will screw into the far side sure but you need to be pressing the 2 parts together in order to clamp the axle. Below red arrow indicates the side which is threaded, blue arrow the part not threaded. The shoulder on the original presses the unthreaded side toward the threaded (well, draws the threaded toward the unthreaded) such that it pinches the collar and locks the axle. If you fit a pair of suitable nuts on the blue side that'd act against the unthreaded side and get you the required result.
  21. you could get it threaded further along the shaft but it won't have the shoulder to create a clamping action on the two parts of the collar. A nut fitted onto the thread may solve that tho, so it may be an option if you can get someone to machine a thread further along it, or buy a die and DIY it.
  22. I've tried it out on the TAL-1 GEM and it was fine but I expect that may also depend on the phone you are using and the quality and type of sensors fitted inside it. I's using it on a note-10 plus and it seems to work fine. This is with a DIY mount using a prism too rather than the OEM phone carrier.
  23. Perhaps if the existing can be threaded at the existing diameter and a stepped threaded coupler added to screw back into the clamp? Something like: Thread Adapter Reducer Nut Clevis Joint Strut Rod End M6 M8 M10 M12 BZP Steel x1 | eBay Thread-locked onto the shaft it might work... Finding one with a long enough thread may be a problem tho. Alternatively get the existing screw threaded to M8 and add: and and you would be sorted.
  24. ack where's that "fingers crossed" emoti... that he's on the first mission in the splat-ship he's been building
  25. That'd make life a lot easier but do double check before you buy anything. While you can get an adaptor to use 1.25's on a 0.965 scope the mirror would need shifting to reach focus, not ideal. If it really is 1.25-inch then as a simple single eyepiece solution if you can find a zoom in the 7-21mm or 8-24mm range you'd save messing about as you can just zoom in/out as you need when viewing. The svbony ones are pretty good for low $ but then you may need to wait for them to ship in from China and its New Years there at the moment which could add delay unless you're lucky to fond one in stock locally.
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