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Everything posted by DaveL59

  1. do you know the dimensions of the prism and if its BAK4 or BK7? I've some pairs that are pretty much spares so might have one that'll fit tho can't recall but likely they'll be BK7, I assume its a porro design rather than roof. edit: just noticed you're in Canada, have you asked on cloudynights also as they may be able to recommend someone over your side of the pond
  2. could be that edge blacking the IR filter would quench the flare, depending how accessible it is of course. Nice image overall tho, very neat mounting idea too I'm thinking the spectrum flare at the edge, lens flare across the image isn't easy to lose as it'll be from reflections off the lens surfaces and maybe the dome. Not like we can stick a lens hood on to try to control if when using a fisheye
  3. do you know if the lens edges are blackened? Not sure how simple it'd be to strip down and do that but it might improve things. I don't see that on mine which makes me wonder if there's a flaw at the lens edge? Does it have an IR filter glued on the back of it as that might be creating the flare effect?
  4. More likely that the secondary isn't reflecting the whole primary light cone now its closer to the primary, I'd have thought, but it'll be relatively little lost compared to the convenience of using std 1.25 inch EPs. A larger secondary would catch the bit that's lost and then you may want to enlarge the hole for the focuser (I believe astrobaby did that on hers when she overhauled but for other reasons) but since the focuser tube isn't going to be changed for a wider one probably little point in doing so.
  5. I've similar skies here but get good views from the back garden as its reasonably dark that side of the house. Front wouldn't work for me with LED street light that's v bright. Main view for me is to SE as there's a bit oak tree to the south but I've had nice views of Jupiter and Saturn earlier this year and of course the moon. Impatiently waiting for Orion to be back in view at sensible hours as I had some nice views with bino's last year and can't wait to see how much more the scopes show
  6. bigger as the secondary is now lower into the light cone if you see what I mean if you consider the primary as the base of an isoscelese triangle and the secondary sits near the point where the long sides meet, the line across parallel to the edges forms a plane of a certain length. Moving the primary up is much the same as lowering the intercept point nearer the base, resulting in a wider plane at that new point. Yes I know the secondary isn't parallel but the result is much the same, closer the secondary gets to the primary, the wider the light cone hitting it... Not a great pic but might illustrate what I mean, if you consider upper and lower red lines as where the mirror was/is tho in the Tal it won't be that big of a difference
  7. thinking about it simplistically and I may be off the mark, but having moved the primary up the tube (I've done the same), you're effectively intercepting the cone of light earlier at a slightly wider point. So a slightly larger secondary might make a bit more of the image the primary is projecting, no? Not sure if the later Tal-1's with shorter tubes used a different secondary to allow for that, perhaps someone else here with one would know or be able to measure and let you know. Alternatively you could always get the secondary re-coated.
  8. what may help is exposure to UV as that'll at least cull the mould hopefully, so it doesn't spread. A UV lamp and a decent exposure time would do if the sun doesn't want to help, don't point it at the sun tho! As for cleaning it off, a soak with some hydrogen peroxide added perhaps? tho I've no idea how that'd aflict the mirror, others with more experience than me may be able to advise better re that. Might be fine with just the usual soapy water routine after a UV session to kill it off, but give the internals of the casing a treatment as well to remove any spores that might still be lurking.
  9. could be fine then It is a problem now for shipping LiPo cells, being they can be quite "volatile" so can imaging it's not so easy to source if there are no local suppliers around.
  10. does seem pricey but may well do the job, has mains inverter output which is likely why, do you really need that? so long as it doesn't auto-shutdown with a low-drain load it could work, tho using the AC outlet will reduce runtime quite a bit I expect. I have a LiPo car jump-start pack that's smaller but similar rated power and use the Cig socket adaptor to hook up to a Buck converter to deliver 12v out to the SynScan, seems to work just fine and cost around £65 all in. Just be sure you check the DC output voltage before you hook up the scope as they can be a lot more than you'd see off a regular 12v lead battery, mine showed 16v which is more than the 15v max for the goto, hence the buck converter.
  11. The old TAL scopes came in a plywood box and I've been thinking along the same lines myself, as my smaller Tal-M has the box but the Tal-1 and 100RS do not. Problem I see will be the weight and bulk which won't be helped by the added weight of the box. I'm thinking along the lines of adding decent sized wheels at one end so it can be towed along more easily, esp given the 100RS+EQ5 weighs in around 50KG. I guess another option would be a fold-up sack barrow to strap it onto while moving it around
  12. hopefully it'll be fine then I know some have used hot-glue to secure prisms in binoculars so I'd go that route rather than general purpose/cyano-acrylate stuff for any optics having seen the effect it had on a torch reflector one time. Enjoy the Tal, I travelled from Kent to Coventry to collect the 100RS I have, love how well made they are and the views it gives are fabulous to my eyes, not that we've had the skies to do much of late...
  13. yikes I'd not have used superglue, it outgasses and can leave a nasty residue on optics, hope you left it open a good while before you sealed it all back up Well done on getting it all back aligned tho
  14. is that with the laser in the diaganol? Do you get the same with the diaganol removed, that'd confirm the focuser and lenses are or are not the issue.
  15. I've tended to use treetops around 150m away, centre in the scope then set the finder a smidge above which seems to work reasonably well for me. Fun when its a windy day tho and the trees swaying about. After that I'll tweak a little if needed once looking at the stars but found in the main little need to do much tbh
  16. can't say if they're the same but no harm in asking RVO as they'll likely know the answer...
  17. A monopod and bracket for the bino can help a lot and not add much cost or weight if you want to try the bino route first A parallelogram rig for binos can make things even better tho at a cost, of course. Add a lounger type chair so you aren't craning your neck esp now its getting colder and you're started out at reasonable budget till the right scope comes along...
  18. I'll be honest here and say I'm new to scopes myself so not long into the hobby, moved up from binoculars after collecting and restoring a few (lot). But a chunk of reading, looking at what's out there and checking forums and reviews, then taking a punt based on that... Most of mine are TAL, they're v solidly made and low cost with some restoration needed on the reflectors (paint in the main). The refractor on the other hand is in v nice condition, all are 2003 vintage or earlier and likely in 20+ years will still be going strong. I'm sure the skywatcher will be fine too but feels so thin in comparison lol. Another thought springs to mind, not wanting to be too personal or intrusive, but have you considered the tripod legs relative to your situation? Could be that they get in the way a bit for comfortable access to the eyepiece where a pier type mount may work better for you?
  19. depending on how high you are seated relative to the scope, a refractor/SCT/MAK may suit better then, tho a refractor can have a big range of movement when looking higher toward azimouth, depending on the length of the OTA. My refractor is 1M long so essentially 45-50mm from the pivot point to the eyepiece to give an idea. MAK/SCT are much shorter so less of a range to swing through.
  20. you often see pics on the bay where the little finder scope is fitted pointing the opposite way from which it should be. The finder should be the other way round from what's shown in that pic
  21. see that so often lol Otherwise, probably a nice scope but I've no experience of the dobs. Quite a way from you tho. Depends how much of a hurry you're in really, some decent binos might help tide you over till something more local turns up, perhaps. You can pick up good 10x50 waterproof porro's for good money from time to time, I landed a pair of minolta's that were under £25 and mint, for example.
  22. only thing in that case would be how well its packaged up and then the carrier handling it "nicely". Any loose items in the package might find their way into the OTA and damage the mirror, or for a refractor the main objective. Assuming the seller has the original packaging it was shipped in you might be ok but it does increase the risk. Disputing condition when it arrives makes it your word against theirs etc. Bear in mind that a scope plus tripod is large and heavy, not to mention the OTA can be quite long (1m) so shipping may not be cheap. Insured shipping may not cover any optical gear either. Given that, best to get a quote from the seller first then decide, might be better to go new from FLO or another where you'll have warranty if it gets damaged in transit. Where are you based tho? could be worth waiting until something nearby comes up, all but the TAL100RS I was lucky to find not so far away, that one was a v long round trip but one I felt was worth making.
  23. wasn't aimed at you john, in fact you replied as I was writing mine Agree about looking at FLO and others to see what's good and get a general idea of what may suit, also helps to better know if the bay price asked is reasonable or not. Seen quite a few ads for scopes where its not much less than new with warranty, but claimed to be unused even if a year or more old.
  24. can understand why many would prefer to go elsewhere than ebay, but I've bought all mine from the bay with no issues, but I did collect each of them in person so they were transported home with care. I've not tried AP via the scopes so far other than mobile to eyepiece, fiddly to achieve a nice image so will one day sort something to fit the EP to go further. I've the skywatcher 130EQ2 with clockwork drive that seems to track fine for visual, and also a Tal100RS on EQ5 with SynScan which is nice to use. The 130 can be had for under £100 often, the TAL was quite a bit more but I had to have it Probably best if you want to go ebay/classifieds route to stick with better known brands like skywatcher/celestron and aim for larger aperture (mirror/objective lens) but the short tube reflectors maybe less useful for AP? Others who know way more than me can advise better on that front but they tend to have a corrector lens in the focuser to compensate the shorter tube length and not sure what that does for the image with a camera rather than a regular eyepiece. Makes collimation fun too I gather. Should add - if you are able, go check the equipment before bidding or committing to buy, check for fungus on optics, scratches on mirrors, that bits that should move do and all the components are present etc (not that I did lol, but did exchange messages with the sellers to verify stuff beforehand)
  25. I have 2 EQ5's, one sticks here and there on RA where the other runs freely. So I transferred the SynScan gear across to that one so it works smoothly. Not got around to stripping the other EQ5 down yet so can't say what the internals are like, suspect it'll need cleaning out and new grease to get it running smooth once more. Does yours run free without the motors installed or was it always that way? I guess if the SynScan is working fine and tracking accurately it may be fine as-is and perhaps have less slop than if the axle was looser. On mine where the RA catches the motor sure didn't make nice noises and would just stall.
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