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Found 57 results

  1. Hi Can anyone help with a collimation problem. I have a 200pds Skywatcher and I am trying to collimate the scope but I am having problems centering the secondary under the focusser. The secondary looks to be circular and positioned correctly to the optical axis but I do not understand how to align it in the axis 90 degrees to this - see photo The mirror is central to the tube on the spider, so the only thing I can think of is that the focusser is not pointing directly at the centre of the tube, so the focusser mounting itself needs adjusting - Is this correct or am I missing something. I have taken a few photos and an example is attached ISO 800 30 seconds. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Pete
  2. Good Afternoon I have been trying to get my SW 250P (f/4.7) to the best possible collimation as I couldn't manage to focus on any of the planets so far. I just collimated the scope to ready it up for tonight's session. Your feedback is much appreciated!
  3. Hey guys,im currently on a school trip and brought my celestron firstscope with, tonight we ll be trying some dsos and maybe saturn and jupiter,the telescope itself is not collimated and dirty (on the mirrors)So I wanted to ask.in the scope, there is no primary adjustment screws,only the ones to take it off .Does that mean that its set , allowing me to take it off wash it and back on without having to recollimate the primary? Thanks Kronos
  4. To put this in perspective, I bought my first SCT nearly ten years ago. And in all that time, there has been one word that has scared me witless (no, that's not a spelling mistake ) ... collimation!!!! There are so many horror strories around of people scratching corrector plates and simply messing it up completely and making a scope unusable, that I have always avoided it like the plague ... once even preferring to sell the scope I had and buy another one to avoid having to do it [don't you just love the logic of that one?particularly when there is no guarantee they will arrive collimated!]. I've always belonged to the "I don't care about winning, I just don't want to lose" brigade. Six months ago, I bought an RC6 and recently picked-up a cheshire eyepiece. No corrector plate ("But don't drop the allen key into the tube," the websites warn!). If I'm ever going to do this, now is the time. A quick look earlier this week showed the dot well out of position, so yesterday ... I procrastinated ... o come on, you didn't think it was going to be that easy, did you? But there are clear skies predicted for tonight, so this morning I went outside, set up my NEQ6, plonked the RC6 onto it, pointed it slightly downwards and went and made a cup of coffee. Returning to the scope I started to have a play. I kid you not. In less time than it had taken me to set up (excluding the coffee), I had the black dot slap-bang in the middle of my white circle. The allen bolts were tight, yes, but not "wheel-nut" tight; not "you need three feet of metal bar wrapped around the allen key to lean on in order to loosen it" tight. And yes, my first move was in the wrong direction ... so what??? It was so monumentally, stupidly easy ... why all the horror stories on the internet? Am I pleased I set it up outside where there was plenty of space, rather than struggling in the lounge? Yes. Am I pleased I got a cheshire so I could do it in daylight? Yes. Were the ten years of worry that I had endured dreading this day a waste of energy? You bet! So my message is to anyone who looks at the word "collimation" and immediately becomes a rabbit in headlights ... Action Cures Fear ... seriously, just do it ... if I can do it, ANYONE can.
  5. Guys , i am so frustrated .I can't collimate my newt. I m here with my chesire eyepiece trying to adjust the secondary but when i turn the centre screw, the mirror moves a lot and then shifts back to where it was. And turning the little screws arouns it ddnt so much either. I don't have much time before my session (2 hrs) pls help VID_20190324_202528.mp4
  6. I have encountered a unique problem last night while trying to image using my GSO RC6. The scope is well collimated using a long Cheshire as well as a Howie Glatter single beam laser for verification. CCD inspector also gives me good results when checking with an artificial star. However, when I check using a collimation cap the innermost shadow looks offcentered as well as when I pointed the scope on a real star yesterday (Alp Libra) as well as Spica, it showed a crescent shaped star. This I found to be really weird. Anyone have any idea whats happening here? I live in Bangalore, India, so there's virtually no cool down time required. The temperature gradient between outside and inside is very little if any.
  7. I knew from the start, that my Mak (which is new) was a bit out of collimation, I also knew that alhough they hold collimation very well, they can be a pain to collimate. With this in mind I scoured the net for articles and videos before attempting it rather than ending up having a major wobbler when messing it up lol. The key was to understand the push/pull system by which the spider is moved, and very small turns of the screws while adjusting them in sequence with each other. I am happy to say that after 30 minutes, and thanks to Arcturus and a high power eyepiece, I have come as close to perfect as I will get and I am more than happy with that. I took a cell phone shot, I wish it was as sharp and defined as the rings were visually but regardless, it was rewarding. Both inside and outside focus was the same which is great, after snuggling up the locking screws, I won’t be messing with them anymore unless I drop it.
  8. Hi all, New Skywatcher skyliner 200P, straight out of the box. I thought I would have a go at checking the collimation for the first time. This is a photo taken through the hole in a diy collimation cap. Everything looks ok to me, what do the experts think? The spider vanes look to be crossing smack in the center of the donut on the mirror. Ignore the sparkly thing, it's not a star cluster, 'tis nought but a lamshade :-) Does everything look aligned? Neil.
  9. Hello everyone, As a farely new member and astronomer, I've decided to seek help for collimation. The task seems pretty daunting at first but I think I got the basics down. Unfortunately I cannot find any answers for the questions I have, so here it is: Is it 'normal' to see the focuser's end? As you can see in the attached picture (poor quality, let me know if I should do another) we can see a rectangle at the left, the focuser. I don't think I should be seeing this and I don't know what causes the problem since the secondary 'seems' to be aligned and the doughnut is dead center. I'm using a XT10 and the focuser is all the way in. Thanks for your precious time, Antoine
  10. Whilst carrying out a star test I have noticed with a friends C8 that one side of focus appears to be collimated and the other side of focus its off, is this a common problem? Is his best option to collimate as an average so its slightly off either side?
  11. Hey guysIm really struggling with an issue. Recently purchased an Orion ST80. At 20x to 44x using stock 20mm/9mm eyepieces stars look pretty good. But if I test it at 175x using 2.3mm eyepiece and point to bright star I get the pattern like in the images below.Will unscrewing the ring and tapping on the side of the tube resettle the lenses? Or is this an alignment/collimation issue that isnt fixed easily? Defocused, the center circle isn't too off the centre..but focused in, it looks like a cone. Really annoying. If I send this back, no guarantees that the next one will be any better. Or is this typical for type of scopeThanks in advance!
  12. Hi. As a response to ebeygin in the whole-scopes section, here's how I insert shims in refractor cells. I stick 6 strips of adhesive tape at 60° from each other. If that's not enough, I add a layer of narrower strips. I forgot to photograph the job I did in the cells, so I'm showing it with a cap. If the layers become too thick I remove those barely visible strips this way: I lift the corner of a strip with the tip of a thin blade, and remove it with tweezers. Its edge remained visible because this strip is narrower than the previous one. 3 strips at 120° don't hold the lens as well, the large empty space between them still allows the lens to play. Plus, 3 strips have to be thicker, to the point the lens drags against them when you want to insert or remove it. 4 strips at 90° don't work too well either. Because of tolerances/inequalities in the lenses edges and (plastic) cell, 6 strips hold better with less pressure. All this is known by frustration experimentation, so trust it. In other shim jobs, I've noticed that 5x72° works well, but only with small circumferences. Worries: - a friend asked if the glue could seep onto the lenses; no, the "glue" on transparent adhesive tape is a solid, like gum, not a liquid, and it doesn't melt at daytime temperatures. I've kept rolls of tranparent tape in a drawer for years, the glue never seeped out. However, don't use electric tape because its glue does flow out with time (also something I know through frustration experience), and it's too thick for accurate centering, anyway. - too much shimming? The inside focus pattern will seem ok, but outside focus the pattern will be an hexagon with rounded edges, the clue that the 6 strips pinch the lens; another thing I learned through shameful blunder experience. Tips: - making the strips narrower has the same effect as removing one or two broad strips, because the friction area is reduced, the lens will enter the cell more smoothly, with less binding. - blacken the lens edges before you shim the cell, because the layer of ink is thick enough to cause binding (another piece of wisdom got from aggravation experience) - the two 80mm scopes I worked on required two layers, and then the removal of one or two strips. It makes the contour a little uneven but you don't care because the lenses have to be centered relative to each other, not relative to the cell. - the first strips have to be about 25mm-30mm long, the next about 10mm shorter Personally I shim only the rear lens, and add centering screws at the front, but locking the rear lens with shims, and tapping the front makes the process less random. Don't forget the alignment marks on the lens edges. Yeaaahh! I finally found how to write between pics!!!
  13. For Sale: Hotech Advanced CT Laser Collimator for 2" Focuser The HoTech Advanced CT Laser Collimator (patented) is a breakthrough in Cassegrain Telescope collimation! Collimate Your Cassegrain Telescope: Without using a star Indoor or outdoor - day or night Focus stays at final view setting Within focal distance from your telescope One-man operation Portable and simple to setup and use Works on CT, SCT, SN Mak, & RC Collimator is in excellent condition having been used on both my SCT scopes. Includes all original parts. Now sold.
  14. Hello all Im just started in imaging and I have to say I'm pleased with the first result BUT on closer inspection I see I have slightly oblong stars. So people know what I've got and done here it is http://www.astrobin.com/full/271950/0/?nc=user I have a baader coma corrector that I'm using set to 55mm from canon sensor and I have tried short exposures and I notice that it's still there in short exposures. Could it be collimation? It's the only thing I didn't do that evening. I would appreciate your input! Thanks Gerry
  15. Hello all! today i had a very brief moment outside with my 150 Mak before the clouds rolled in, between the time i put it out under clear skies and the two hours i gave it to equalize the clouds had rolled in but with some breaks here and there. so during a short break in clouds i picked the brightest star and quickly checked collimation with my 14mm eyepiece, my question is if i should bother to adjust collimation because while im getting a beautifully symmetrical disc with sharp rings on one end of focus, on the other end im getting a disc thats not so symmetrical with a bit of doppler effect going on where concentric rings are compressed a bit more on one end, dealt with this before on my big dob but not sure to what degree it will affect performance in my mak. I remember some saying here that Mak's don't ever need collimation and hold collimation short of a hammer blow to the tube, should bother opening the pandora's box that collimating can be in worst cases? (star was dead centre in FOV of course) Thanks everyone!!
  16. My 10" DOB (f4.7) gave me stunning views of the Orion nebula on a night last week of good seeing. Today I decided to check the collimation The Hotech Lazer collimator showed it to be a fraction off so a little tweak was given.....then I popped the collimation cap on and it looked a bit off.....which is right? Star test when I get to see some on Saturday. Wonder what a big frac would cost.....only joking. Clear skies
  17. I recently posted about my first successful collimation experience (an SCT). I'm sure we all have our stories, of those moments when we perceived optical clarity. Come on everyone tell us of those collimation 'eureka' moments and your experience of your first observing session immediately following. Paul.
  18. I have just got a second hand Astromaster 130EQ. I want to say that i have collimated scopes before without the use of a laser but in this case i have 2 questions as this is so far out i cant see what i am looking at half the time. So hopefully you can help, thank you. Info about the first problem: The secondary mirror fixing screw that hold the mirror and the collimation allen key bolts were so loose the secondary mirror had rolled facing the bottom of the OTE. In every other case the holding screw never needed touching and all i had to do were make small adjustments with an allen key, no screwdriver was needed. So this case is a whole different scale then any other collimation i have ever needed to do. You probably all know that i need to get the center of the eyepiece in line with the center of the mirror before can move on with this step. Question 1 What is the best way to do this, shall i just eye it for now? (i have seen people measuring to the center of the eyepiece and then do the same with mirror but then i still dont know if the mirror is facing me directly.) Info about the second problem Every other time i have collimated a scope the mirror and scope were very low quality and just used for practice basically. The old scopes were used to see if i wanted to go further into this hobby which i definitely do. Any how the old scopes had a flat mirror and i could find the center by placing the mirror on paper and tracing a circle template. The thing is this mirror is concaved so any template iswill have to be pushed into the vurve (i think). Question 2 So how can i center the mirror without placing it face down on a piece of paper which cant be a good thing? Thank you. I hope i have not gone on to much, thank you for your patience in reading a long winded post.
  19. Hi all! I bought a set of Bob's Knobs for my Celestron NexStar C8 based upon many recommendations I had read. They have shown up, and the threads on the Bob's Knobs seem to be wider than the threads on the original collimation screws. They don't really want to screw into the scope easily, and I certainly don't want to force anything. Does anybody have experience with this? Should these work for my telescope? The set I bought had the following description: Bob's Knobs Celestron 8" SCT f/10 Collimation Knobs fit Celestron 8" (20cm) f/10 post-1980 SCT with factory silver or Allen Phillips collimation screws, with or without Fastar secondary with silver collimation screws (NexStar 8, Ultima 2000, C8 black, or gray, etc). Please note that this includes post-2000 orange tube but does not fit pre-1980 orange tube or majority of scopes with black Phillips factory collimation screws. Has anybody else had trouble with these? Thanks for any help!
  20. I just got my Glatter (RIP Howie) tublug/laser and holy cow does this thing work! and it makes primary collimation so easy espc for my truss dob. In comparison to the Catseye cheshire it is very close, if not the same. My Catseye triangles seem made for the tublug. I think I'll change the triangles to hotspots down the road though as I heard us collimation fanatics can get a bit more accurate with them. ATM I run all red triangles. Of course I could always pull out the AC
  21. Hi all I have recently acquired a Newtonian reflector 150/750 and I am having a few issues with it. First of all I have read numerous pages on collimation but I don't know what is wrong with this scope. First off I align the secondary with the focuser by eye and using a collimation cap make sure that I can see the 3 primary retaining clips. Then using a Cheshire eyepiece I align everything up as it should be. When I place a good collimated laser in the eyepiece the laser is way off centre on the primary and in actual use stars and planets wont focus and the flare is awful. If I then use the laser to collimate then objects look better but still not great and in this position the secondary holder is leaning away from the focuser and not aligned with the tube. The Cheshire then shows the centre of the primary way off alignment from the circular secondary mirror. Any ideas? Should a laser and a Cheshire agree that a scope is aligned? I will try to load some images tomorrow but its difficult to get what I can see on camera.
  22. I was wonder is someone with the same set-up as me can tell me if this effect is normal for a Celestron 9.25 SCT. I have not had the telescope long so I am still getting used to setting up. I check the collimation before starting each session and have noticed that 2 dark lines are apparent when I have centred the star within its Airy disc. They are like the hands of a clock and quite well defined. Any thought as to what is causing this. I was wondering if the Bob's Knobs are too tight and are causing distortion of the secondary but I cannot find any examples on the internet of this effect to back this idea up. I can't find any reference anywhere to this. Any ideas of what is causing this and how to cure it would be very much appreciated.
  23. I'm scared I have attained the debilitating Collimation Syndrome ( HClV-1a : Human Collimation Virus strain 1a. - mild/severe). Was out with Calpernia yesterday (ehm..my scope's second name..) and I decided to correct her eyesight..again.. (She's now 11 month's old...her first name is Sky, her surname Watcher, 10" of joy..) I followed my baby's collimation guide (I mean Astrobaby..sorry..) And to my surprise the collicap worked (which I have never tried before) very well... I could see all the six mirror clips on my primary mirror..but it seemed like the clips were not evenly spaced with reference to the side of the secondary mirror's edge. As explained in AstroBaby's guide.. "The photograph to the left shows what the actual view should be like at this stage of the process. Note the three mirror clips are all visible and are all equally close to the edge of the secondary mirror and the secondary is showing round and centred to the focuser tube ( the dark area at the edges of the picture)." (Astrobaby, 19..) source: http://www.astro-baby.com/astro_baby_telescope_help_and_advice.htm. Collimation Guide for Newtonian Reflector Telescopes. I checked with my Cheshire...it showed that (according to the Cheshire) the secondary didn't appear quite cylindrical in the tube. So now I recollimated the whole thing...using my trusted Cheshire...and everything is bang on.. When I insert the colli cap thereafter I can see all the clips, almost all the same size, but still with a slight miscorrection of spacing around the secondary's edge.. Maybe I'm just getting old, and my eyes are tired..
  24. I purchased a standard GSO 6" RC telescope late 2016. As with other RC scopes, I've had my share of problems with the collimation. As many of you know collimation of the RC is a bit of a struggle. After reading much of the material online, it seems that the procedure boils down to multiple iterations with the simple Cheshire and something called as Hall of Mirrors aka multiple reflection effect. Below are the test images from tonight. Reference star is Canopus. All images are inside of focus, unless mentioned. The small rectangle shows the location of the star in the FoV. I also built myself an artificial star from Aluminum foil and LED torch and checked the collimation indoors. The indoor test is quite better as seeing conditions have not affected the judgement. As you may all notice, I've used Mire De Collimation exe file for final checking. I've not used a laser collimator or Howie, just a simple Cheshire and a real star, though I'd love to try again with a Howie Glatter.
  25. Help! I have my first Newtonian and can't get it collimated. I've followed along with countless videos and blog posts but never end up with what I'm supposed to have. Is there anyone in the Lisburn/Craigavon area of Northern Ireland that is willing to give me a hand?
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