Show us your one sub images!

[michael8554]

Okay then, if it's going to get silly.......

Michael

[michael8554]

And one for Williams Formula One fans

(In the middle of commentating for SKY at the Hungaroring F1 qualfying, he was hauled into the pits to sub for sick No.1 driver)

[Stub Mandrel]

As silliness has taken over...

Not that I would eat one with dead bird in it...

[michael8554]

1 hour ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Not that I would eat one with dead bird in it...

Fine image of the Eagle, but a bit bloated compared to the ones in the shop......

Michael

[Nigel G]

6 hours ago, Knight of Clear Skies said:

Gauntlet picked up, challenge accepted, google image search engaged.

 

(Taken from here.)

Now that's hard to beat, a single sub image taken from a sub  

But I did find this

[wxsatuser]

13 hours ago, ollypenrice said:

Of course, I could be lying...

lly

 

but still worth seeing.

[wxsatuser]

Back to normallity.

The original sub I posted but no processing, where has it gone?

 

[StargeezerTim]

9 minutes ago, wxsatuser said:

Back to normallity.

The original sub I posted but no processing, where has it gone?

 

 

Same here...where is it going...

 

[Knight of Clear Skies]

13 hours ago, ollypenrice said:

Of course, I could be lying...

lly

Certainly beats my 30 second effort (50mm lens at f1.4).

Taking a quick timeout from the silliness, I enjoy single sub imaging and will experiment with it some more, especially when conditions are less than ideal. I like using the camera as an enhanced viewing device, helping me relate DSOs to their position in the sky. They are also good for making meaningful comparison shots (apparent size, relative brightness and colours). Here's a couple more I've taken:

The Head of Draco (50mm lens, 235 seconds).

(30 seconds with ED120 - I couldn't get guiding working that night, but at least the Goto was working well.)

[StargeezerTim]

No additions to this thread for 24 hrs so I am extending it to two sub images.

Here is my best two sub image:-

 

[Allinthehead]

This is one 60 second sub ha with Asi 1600 levels stretched in PS.

 

[steppenwolf]

1 x 1800 sec using Esprit 150 ED, QSI 683 and Astrodon 3nm Ha filter with plenty of cloud so all the other subs were dumped - I feel your pain

[StargeezerTim]

32 minutes ago, steppenwolf said:

1 x 1800 sec using Esprit 150 ED, QSI 683 and Astrodon 3nm Ha filter with plenty of cloud so all the other subs were dumped - I feel your pain

30 minute sub! Thats a reasonable stack for me !

Dumping 5 min subs makes me sad... if i had to dump 30 minute subs I would be well upset... .

[steppenwolf]

44 minutes ago, StargeezerTim said:

Dumping 5 min subs makes me sad... if i had to dump 30 minute subs I would be well upset... .

Trust me, I was WELL upset!!!! However, on the plus side, I do see some potential if the sky ever clears again in my lifetime!

[andrewluck]

Single 3600s image of Sh2-216 with Baader 3.5nM Ha filter. Probably the faintest thing I've ever tried to photograph. Maybe one night I'll get around to taking a few more.

Andrew

[Skipper Billy]

Here is my effort.

1 x 1200 second Ha sub - ED80 - Atik 460

Wizard nebula - stretched in Pixinsight and slightly cropped in PS.

 

[Uranium235]

Its very rare that I take a 30min image, but I do have a few 20min subs kicking around:

M16 (130pds) 1200s

 

A tangible whiff of integrated flux in one shot (Samyang 135mm, 1200s @f2):

 

[StargeezerTim]

8 hours ago, andrewluck said:

Single 3600s image of Sh2-216 with Baader 3.5nM Ha filter. Probably the faintest thing I've ever tried to photograph. Maybe one night I'll get around to taking a few more.

Andrew

An hours sub! I tried 15 mins this week for the first time. Your stars are round, even after an hour... 

[mikeyscope]

This sub from last October before cloud moved in, playing around with barlow on a marginal night in garden on the small bright planetary nebula IC2149 (Easter Egg Nebula) in Auriga.

Inset for comparison is a near IR image taken with the MMT on Mount Hopkins, Arizona.

APM 175mm Refractor (barlow to FL 8750mm)

Atik 414EX (mono) at -20'C / Bin 1x1

Lum 240sec sub
Artemis Capture

[Stub Mandrel]

6 hours ago, mikeyscope said:

the small bright planetary nebula IC2149

That ain';t bad for a single., you've got some structure coming through.

[ampleamp]

On 29/07/2017 at 15:58, alan4908 said:

A single calibrated Lum sub of 600s of M51, unprocessed - apart from a DDP stretch, in order that you can see it !

If anyone is interested, this is normally my thought process when examining individual subs:

1 I have couple of dust doughnuts that haven't been taken out by the flat. Although not ideal, I've found quite a good technique to eliminate these in PS. 

2. I also have quite a few hot pixels, although these would be taken out through the subsequent stacking process (since all my subs are dithered). However, the number of hot pixels indicates that it's time for me to take some more dark frames (I haven't taken them for more than 7 months). 

3. I have a slight gradient which I presume is caused by the moon, since I image from a low light pollution area.  This is not a problem, since when the images are stacked, I'll use DBE to remove this. 

4. The aspect ratio of the stars is very good (I normally put all my subs through CCDInspector in order to check things like aspect ratio, average FWHM etc etc.).  Since I now image unguided, I focus particularly on the star aspect ratios, if these rise, then it might be an early indicator that a new sky model is required.

5. The average star has a FWHM of 4.2pixels, measuring a few individual stars seems to confirms this, so at my imaging scale, this indicates that the seeing is about 2.9 arc seconds, which is about average for my site. 

6. The stars and galaxy doesn't appear to be causing any camera saturation.

Alan

On point 1 Alan, what technique do you use?

thanks

[Delboy_Hog]

Testing out the new (as it was then) imaging kit in Spring last year, from the beautiful skies of North Cornwall...ED80 with canon 1100d, guided by a Synguider autoguider through an ST80, all on an HEQ5.

If memory serves, I think it was a 15 minute shot of M101, a 10 minute shot of M51, and a 5 minute image of M81 (and what I thought was M82 from the test shot I'd taken before this one! ) all at ISO 1600.  The framing leaves a little bit to be desired...  No processing on these.

Life's been a bit bumpy since then so I've yet to get really stuck into stacking large numbers of subs, but I'm spending a bit of time looking at Stellarium to see what I want my first big project to be.

[alan4908]

1 hour ago, ampleamp said:

On point 1 Alan, what technique do you use?

Hello

In order to eliminate dust donuts in PS I use a technique from one of Adam Block's tutorial videos, it can also be used to remove scattered light issues. The video, which I would highly recommend, is here: http://www.adamblockphotos.com/store/p7/Dimensions_of_Photoshop_by_Adam_Block.html

It's difficult to explain the technique in textual form, so I would really recommend buying the video, however, here's an attempt at an explanation - be warned this may sound complicated 

Your goal is to replace the defective area with a new background area that doesn't show any defects.

1. Open up the image in PS.

2. Make a copy of the image in the upper layer.

3. Make a selection around the problem area, the selection should be quite a bit larger than the defective area.

4. Move the mouse over the selected area and right click the mouse button - a menu will appear. Select Fill from the menu. Another menu will appear. In the contents box, choose context aware fill and click OK.

5.  At this point your defect will have disappeared since it will have been replaced by a new background, unfortunately, this includes false stars etc which now have to be eliminated.

6.  Select the spot healing brush and put it into context aware mode.  Click on each of the false stars etc within the selection area until you just end up with just a  background. 

7.  With the selection active, click on the mask icon.  On the top layer you should end up with a black mask with the selected area in white. 

8.  Click back on the top image and go to select and reselect. The selection you made previously will reappear. 

9. Turn the opacity slider down on the top layer to something like 50% - this will allow you to see the real stars etc in the selection area.

10. Select the mask and click on the paint brush icon with a hard brush and paint with black on the mask. Paint on the mask at all the points of the real stars. Basically, you are poking holes in the mask, so be careful where you poke since you don't want to let any of the defects through !

11. Put the opacity slider back to 100% and you are done.

Alan

 

 

[ampleamp]

Thanks Alan. Will give it a go. 

[Horwig]

OK, M31, Lum, single 3600 second at f5, it's a bit blown out in the core for some reason