Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.



  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

121 Excellent

About Delboy_Hog

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Leeds / Wakefield
  1. That really is epic Olly! Congratulations on another cracking image!
  2. Hmmm, a difficult choice, and one I can certainly relate to. Can't help on the pros / cons of various pixel sizes I'm afraid, but for panoramas and nightscapes, I opted for the 6D, and it's an absolute beast, especially if coupled with a fast, wide lens (I highly recommend the Samyang 14mm f/2.8 - excellent value for money in my view, in a market where you can spend *way* more, depending on the brand). The difference in image quality from my old 1100d is very significant, and worth the higher cost for me. Maybe spend a bit of time looking at other images on here or on 'Astrobin' - it might give you a better idea of what you can expect from the various combinations? My only caution with the 6D route would be to check the budget for the inevitable extras - spare batteries, carry-bags etc. Unfortunately I made the mistake of strapping my 6d to my ED80 scope and now I don't want to go back to using the 1100d and want a second 6d - one for widefield, one for the scope... Unfortunately the piggy bank is empty, so that's a no-go!! I have no experience of the 800d I'm afraid, and others with experience may shout me down here, but I worry that the 800d won't feel like a significant enough upgrade from the 1000d. I have no doubts that the 6D images will feel like an upgrade. The obvious problem with that could be (and was for me) that it prohibits other purchases until funds recover. So you might have to prioritise what you fancy doing most, between a widefield nightscape set-up and a deep-sky scope / mount set up. Good luck whatever you decide. Enjoy the feeling of excitement that comes with deciding new astro-purchases!
  3. Lovely image. Wowsers, 20s subs? That camera is a beast. I've been eyeing up the Leo Triplet with a view to hunting the tidal tail, but reckon I'd need 20m subs at least, and that's with the 6D, which is pretty sensitive. I wonder how long (or rather, how short) an exposure you'd need to find it with the A7s? Keep up the good work - looking forward to seeing more of your images!
  4. Ah fab, thanks for that Charl - I'll give it another whirl and see how I get on. Thanks, and congrats again on the images!
  5. Nice catch Charl, and a couple of really crisp images as a reward! Do you mind my asking how you're stacking your lunar frames? I've been meaning to go back to taking more photos of the moon, and had previously used Registax. Think I've had some windows update thing since last time I did that and for some reason it now seems to struggle and crash when I upload either raw of jpeg files of the moon (strange, as seems to work ok still when I run through planetary frames!)... Anyways, well done on capturing the 99.7%! Derek
  6. Lovely images, James! Well done for getting up and out at that time - it's never easy, but it's definitely worth the effort if it leads to images like these. Looking forward to seeing the timelapse!
  7. Having the star adventurer has actually given me a real kick of enjoyment recently from the wider-field (than most telescopes) images. Andromeda will look lovely at 250mm (as well as shorter focal lengths, which might enable slightly longer subs) as will M45 I'd have thought, and even with relatively short exposures you'll be able to get some cracking images in and around Orion anywhere within your 55 - 250mm range. At the lower ranges of that lens, you can get some interesting shots with 2 or more of the better known galaxies in. At the 50 - 85mm range you'll get Andromeda and M33 in the field which is pretty spectacular to see, and you'll similarly get M51 and M101 in if you focus somewhere between the stars Alkaid and Mizar in the plough. If in doubt, I'd recommend a quick peek in the images section of this forum, or the website "Astrobin", where you can see what other people with similar kit are imaging. You also get a good idea of what kind of camera settings / exposure lengths etc that you'll need to think about using. Hope that helps!
  8. I was over on the other side, a couple of hours North of Marseille. Definite on the list of places to go back to! Hope you have a great trip and we'll look forward to seeing your photos!
  9. Haven't tried flats before, but hopefully I can crack it! Darks are a pain, and I've been experimenting with sort of manual dithering, and moving the camera a wee bit between frames, and it seems to help reducing noise. I need to do a comparison with taking dark frames, as if I can ditch darks, I will! Patience is the main issue I have with dithering though, as spending a couple of hours moving the camera every couple of minutes isn't ideal, especially when you're sat out in the cold. Yes, I've only used an 85mm lens so far, but am in the market for something in the 150 - 300mm range as there are a number of targets that I think look great at that focal length. Looking forward to hearing how you get on at the longer end of the range. Oooh, the south of France trip sounds good. I was out there just before Christmas and got very lucky with the weather - whereabouts are you heading? Hope you have a great time!
  10. Hi Adder, Having the same setup as you, I wondered the same thing when I started out aligning. As you say, it doesn't 'hold' the first star once you've confirmed it, and seems to drift away, especially if you've stepped up to a higher magnification on the first star. I don't think it makes a big difference, but as Mognet mentioned, if you can wrap up the second star (and third, if you're using 'brightest star' method) in a couple of minutes or thereabouts, you should be fine. I time I found I could improve the accuracy of my alignment by getting the chosen star central in the 25mm eyepiece, then checking with a 10mm (and for when i was imaging planets, eventually a 2x or 3x barlowed 10mm) that it was still bang in the centre. Clearly it takes longer to change out the eyepieces, but once you've done it a few times and have everything to hand when you set up, you can soon whip through it. Like Geoff, I lost count of the number of times I'd slew to the second star only to find it was out of sight behind trees or houses! As has been mentioned, the software Stellarium is great to have at hand so you can quickly find out where a particular star is, and you can also get apps for your phone that help you to find your way around the stars too. Getting familiar with that AZ goto alignment procedure was a great step for me in learning the brighter stars! All the best, Derek
  11. Very nice images! I've just been getting started with my Star Adventurer, and have really started to enjoy the wider field of view that you get using a camera and lens on these types of mounts, as a bit of a change from the views you get using the scope. The lenses are often 'faster' than the scope too, so even shorter subs can reveal all sorts of goodies in your images. There's a whole load of wonderful dusty stuff around M45 that you'll start to pick up for sure if you can lengthen the subs to 2 - 4 mins. My next challenge is to figure out how to take flat frames, as it seems they'll be pretty essential to getting great images with the DSLR and fast lenses. Looking forward to seeing more of your images! Derek
  12. Great question Andy, I've been trying to figure out the same thing recently, and was planning on asking the very same thing. It was helpful to see Adam's suggested times as that matches my very unscientific experiments more or less. With my 1100d, I've found I can do 15 - 20 min subs (under good dark skies) on cool nights (so under 10 degrees) at ISO 800. They're *very* noisy though, so I haven't tried anything longer, and I don't yet know how many I'd need to stack before I got a useable image at the end of it. That's the next stage in my investigation! I've also wondered about whether it is necessary to let the camera cool down for a while after a long exposure. With the noise, fear of losing a long sub to guiding issues, wind etc, I tend to opt for a larger number of slightly shorter subs to 'play it safe' - but then I've not been chasing anything faint enough to really need 20 minutes as yet. As Peter mentions above, dithering (moving where on the screen the target object sits by a small amount) between frames has helped a lot with these shorter subs, so I'm looking forward to testing it on the longer subs. On warmer nights (so 20+ degrees), I've seen some pretty ugly 5 min frames at ISO 1600 - so again, that matches pretty well with Adam's figures. I'll be looking to pick peoples' brains on here about ways to cool a DSLR once we get to spring time here in the UK! All the best, Derek
  13. Ah, many thanks Bryan, I hadn't thought to look there... Yup, you're absolutely right...there's the fuse, and it's definitely blown. Well I was hoping for that - a little fuse is a lot cheaper than a new dew controller. I'll drop into Maplins tomorrow. Many thanks again for your help! Derek
  14. Many thanks for coming back on this Alan. You're absolutely right about me not having a multimeter! Think my neighbour does though so might give him a shout. Ah ok, that's really helpful. That power tank is only used for the dew heater these days - and the power tank still works. My other battery doesn't prompt any life from the LEDs either, so as you suggest, I guess that means it could be the wiring to the dew heater. Everything was pretty heavily dewed so perhaps some water got in somehow. Thanks again - I'll go and investigate further! Derek
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.