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Skipper Billy

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Everything posted by Skipper Billy

  1. +1 for flowerpot saucers. Before I had an observatory I used a mobile HEQ5 and the plant pot saucers were perfect - worked well - cheap - frost proof. The hole in the middle was just the right size for the tripod feet. I sank them into the grass partly for stability but mainly so the lawnmower didn't catch them. (more worried about polar alignment than the lawnmower!!) I dont have any photos sorry!
  2. I used blobs of PlayDoh (sp?) to hold the camera in place in a spare eyepiece holder and once I had got it square I glued it in place with 5 minute epoxy. Worked a treat but only for that scope ie not transferable from scope to scope.
  3. I used a piece of high pressure thick walled steam pipe off a decommissioned submarine - simple flange welded onto each end. Cost was zero. £20 bung to the welder. Fastened down to the concrete block with M14 studs epoxied into holes drilled in the concrete. Top end M14 bolts welded to the steel plate that pass through the top flange giving some adjustment. If we move house it can be removed and the studs cut flush with the concrete. Photos here - https://sites.google.com/view/astro-imaging/micro-observatory
  4. I guess that it just cant supply enough amps to drive both motors at the same time. I also guess that there arent too many specialist astronomy shops in Puchong, Western Malaysia !! As long as you are not running anything else from the power supply like dew strips etc then something like this would do the job. https://www.amazon.co.uk/JnDeeTM-ADAPTER-Transformer-Monitors-Powering/dp/B071VW5R3P?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 The key is it must be 12 - 13.7 volts and critically about 10amps supply. Your other alternative is to use a car battery - nice clean power - plenty of amps but needs charging up fairly regularly.
  5. Depends on budget and ambitions really. I have just taken an Atik 460 mono off mine and replaced it with an Atik 16200 This way I can have a much wider field but be able to crop hard if required and it avoids fitting a reducer as one of the main drivers for me to get this scope was not having faff about with spacings between scope and sensor - a problem that would return if I fitted the reducer. But its not a cheap solution !!
  6. The capping strip that runs along the apex is fixed to one half of the roof - this is the last side to be closed . When it is closed it covers the gap and has a silicone sealing strip. Its never let a drop of water through even in >100mph winds and torrential rain. (IE Summer up here)
  7. When I was thinking about building an obsy I looked at various types and did much head scratching. I eventually opted for a split roof on 'German' hinges so I could have either half open or closed. The only downside is that it would be very difficult to automate / motorise. Other than that I have been delighted with it. It has transformed my imaging. There are some build photos here but shout if you need to know anything about it. https://sites.google.com/view/astro-imaging/micro-observatory I wouldn't say its any better or worse than other designs but its nice and simple and works well.
  8. Hello Gina I did a presentation to a Scottish Photographic Society a couple of weeks ago - Powerpoint based. Its attached - feel free to bin it, rip it shreds, do anything you want with it. I dont get prissy about copyright of my images etc - feel free to use any images you might want etc etc. All the astroimages are mine and the none astro ones are all copyright free. Astro Imaging presentation.pptx
  9. Your postman will gladly give you a lifetimes supply of elastic bands - it saves dropping them all over the place !!
  10. Thanks folks. @noah4x4 Once I can communicate with the NUC via RDP / Tight VNC etc can I not go into the settings of the NUC uisng my indoor PC and set the NUC at whatever resolution my indoor screen can handle ??
  11. An elastic band tied with a Prusik knot to the cable either side of the plug/socket would give positive pressure when assembled but allow disconnection manually or if a cable snags. https://www.animatedknots.com/prusik/
  12. I have a 380mm / 15" ADM Losmandy plate that is surplus to requirements. They are £68 new so £35 plus P&P ?? David.
  13. PS - there are a lot of women in this forum too !!
  14. Not saying its the right way but what I do is......... Work out how much time I have got - depends on weather, time of year, work tomorrow? etc.... lets say 6 hours Then spend half that time - 3 hours on Lum binned 1x1 and the other 3 hours on RGB ie an hour each binned 2x2 For exposure time I usually use 600 sec subs for Lum and 300 seconds for RGB (we are blessed with dark skies). Works for me !!
  15. Having followed your input over many years I have NO doubt you will do it and incorporate some ingenious solutions and some 3D printing along the way!
  16. Thanks Hugh Your design is probably the next step for me - I haven't gone down the fully remote setup as I still need to go outside to manually open the roof and there is no way (that I can figure out!) of automating it - but very helpful all the same. Maybe Obsy mkII will have an automated roof! Photos of MKI are here in case you have any creative ideas ! I have tried your suggestion but wirelessly and it works a treat using my laptop with RDP I can access and control the Obsy PC. So hopefully no reason that it wont work just as well with the NUC when I get it sorted. Thanks again for the suggestion. David (aka Skipper Billy)
  17. Thanks Hugh I cant believe I didn't think about that solution! Just taking it a step onwards... I have a very similar setup to you - a full size PC in the obsy that is both hard wired (Cat6) and wirelessly connected to the PC in the house - I usually control the outdoors PC via RDP so a very similar setup to you. I am now thinking I could set up my laptop to control the outdoors PC via RDP wirelessly as well as my indoors fixed PC. Then when I want to do things like adjust the focus on the guide scope and see the results in real time I can just take my laptop to the obsy and do it wirelessly via RDP. That way I would need the 'switch' ??? I wouldnt need to buy a screen and my laptop has the trackpad, keyboard and screen all in one and no wires !! Anyone see any issues with that ??? (I am on a mission to reduce trailing cables hence swapping the Obsy PC for a NUC which will be mounted on the OTA) Thanks in advance.
  18. Some folk have usernames that bear no relation to anything so dont feel bad
  19. Cheers - plenty of ideas to research there. We put TV/Monitors on our boats - they are 12v and waterproof but too big and a few hundred quid more than I want to pay!
  20. I am gradually putting together a NUC for use in my Obsy. It will normally operate 'headless' but on occasions I might want to attach a screen/monitor. Any suggestions ??? Must be able to run off 12v - 10" - 12" size and not massively expensive??
  21. I wouldnt use a USB cable (USB 2 or 3) any longer than 5 meters - it's just asking for trouble. I have tried a few solutions - the two most successful were converting the USB to Cat5/6 - this worked reliably at 50m - a top quality powered USB hub in the obsy and CAT6 cale to the PC in the house. I used on of these - https://www.uk.insight.com/en-gb/productinfo/network-accessories-and-misc-networking/0004374189-00000001?gclid=Cj0KCQiAn4PkBRCDARIsAGHmH3e0T5vtankggDcCzURT_iTmkiMY6ZXkPHYvjbFT5H8e3u1mXgiTSB0aAkIKEALw_wcB The socond solution was born out of my desire to have a PC in the obsy so I could be 'out there' and still have access to the computer to adjust things. I now have a very similar setup to Dr_Ju_Ju - a PC in the obsy - a pc in the house - linked by CAT6 cable (or wifi - I can choose) - using RDP - absolutely flawless performance and with a screen in the obsy I can control it or alter stuff from either location.
  22. Thanks Paul - the rings are too big then - boo hiss..... Thanks for the info.
  23. I am thinking of replacing the standard tube rings on my 72ED with Primaluce ones but I don't know the tube diameter and my scope isn't accessible for a while and FLO dont have one in stock. I am thinking of these https://www.firstlightoptics.com/tube-rings/primaluce-lab-80mm-plus-tube-rings-for-airy-apo65f.html Could anyone with such a scope measure the tube diameter - the part where the tube rings would sit ie the black part please. I would be extremely grateful !
  24. Useful document here that might help you.. 2nd item down on this page https://sites.google.com/view/astro-imaging/how-to
  25. Definitely extensions - one of the reasons I bought this scope was that I can achieve a fully screwed together system - camera to extensions to focuser = no slop.
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