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michael8554

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  1. Nice. But why not the usual red leds, to help preserve night vision ? Michael
  2. I like William's explanation. Though your post heading talks of Collimation too. If that is badly out, not just the focus, I would start with a Collimation with a high-power eyepiece. Michael
  3. Does the shutter fire with no lens or T-Ring attached ? Have you set exposure and focus to manual ? The camera may be trying to connect to an autofocus lens. Michael
  4. As wookie said. A lot will depend on how light-polluted your sky is. Michael
  5. If the telescope has the two rings that clamp around it, and the bar they attach to. Then you should be able to attach the bar to the moveable head of the Velbon tripod. But I don't believe that would be stable and safe enough. I think realistically you need a new or used Equatorial or Alt/Alt mount and tripod. Michael
  6. Facebook said ? Be prepared for reports of hordes of zombies stumbling around during Totality, because they've forgotten to take their solar spectacles off........ 😆 Michael
  7. The room looks like the King's Observatory at Kew. Commissioned in 1769 by King George III, who was interested in astronomy. To observe the Transit of Venus, predicted to occur that year. https://www.kingsobservatory.co.uk/ Michael
  8. The Altair Astro Starwave 66 ED-R is a Refractor with a focal length of 400mm. Measure 400mm from the doublet front element. That's where the scope focuses, that point does not move when you alter the focuser. The focuser merely moves the camera or eyepiece to that focus position. You may need Extensions to place your camera or eyepiece at that focus point, if the focuser runs out of range. Michael
  9. Found them. In one of the earlier boxes. What idiot put them there.......... ? Michael
  10. I've been replacing the five suspect capacitors in a Classic LX200, which requires some disassembly. I keep the groups of screws in separate closed boxes, but the tiny screws that hold the RA and Dec boards onto the motor are nowhere to be found. I remember removing them, after that it's a blank :-< Michael
  11. Two possibilities: 1. You have guiding with RA and Dec errors very similar RA = 0.33arcsecs, Dec = 0.36arcsecs. That should yield round stars. But I notice a 1 arcsec spike in RA and Dec, so what are your RA and Dec Peak errors ? 2. Diff Flex occurs when you have good guiding figures - so the guidescope is being well guided. But if the guidescope is wobbling, such as due to soft-tipped screws in the guidescope rings, or a wobbly Finder used as a guidescope, or cables dragging. Then the imaging scope is not being guided the same as the guidescope. Remember your imaging camera has pixels with dimensions in um. A wobble less than the diameter of a human hair will elongate a star image. Michael
  12. "I've read that the small pixel size of the RPi HQ camera is an issue when used as a guide camera." It's not only the pixel size that matters. It's the combination of pixel size and focal length, which gives you the pixel scale. In this case 18.05 arcsecs/pixel. You'd have to go much much smaller in pixel size to get a usable pixel scale. Binning, if possible, would make this worse. A 50mm or longer guidescope focal length is required, to give a pixel scale of under 6. Michael
  13. The length of your exposures seems to be limited by PA. Do your best with the polarscope. But however good you get that, just use the DARV PA method to improve it. That's all you need to do with your setup, then get imaging ! You had 4 pixels of RA in 5 minutes, so 75 sec exposures may be tops, if you get Dec to a similar figure. Michael
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