Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

  • Announcements

    sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_open_clusters.thumb.jpg.f534ff4cbeb9f1a55a0d894ac8bc190b.jpg

michael8554

Advanced Members
  • Content count

    1,497
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

518 Excellent

1 Follower

About michael8554

  • Rank
    Sub Dwarf
  1. I agree, the stacked image looks out of focus, so a few subs to look at would be good. Michael
  2. Modded EOS D200

    So many things it could be, but possibly as the 200D is a recently introduced camera, you might need a newer version of IRIS, or the Raw processor. Michael
  3. Is this a problem with my flat frames

    The black corners of the flats may not necessarily be an exposure error if the chip is totally uniluminated there? Are your focuser, nosepiece, filters, too small for the 1600? Michael
  4. Ready to give up.

    If I'm imaging the same target over several nights I Synch on a nearby star, but goto the ra and dec from a platesolve of the offset framing of test shots on the first night. And I would also platesolve test shots if rotation of the camera is required. Michael
  5. Newbie to Planetary Imaging

    Your biggest problem may well be actually getting your planet into the field of view of your tiny chip at F10, even harder when barlowed. It's a bit like threading a needle..... You might succeeed by centering first with a reticle eyepiece that's parfocal with your camera, but best bet is a Flip Mirror. If Chris is suggesting you'd be oversampling, true for imaging long exposure galaxies etc, but my understanding is not necessarily so for planetary video sequences. Michael
  6. New dslr advise

    Budget? I'm only familiar with Canons, your equipment list suggests you guide and have a computer. In that case any camera with LiveView (450D upwards), but a swivel lcd screen may be useful for initial focusing (600D upwards). Michael
  7. To my mind this seems a reasonable test, even if the alignment map is incomplete it should go between two stars already mapped. Is the error in RA or Dec or both in this test? If your encoders are optical one may be miscounting ticks due to dirt or grease or a fault. Michael
  8. RA Motor Guiding Issue

    Hi John No mention of Calibrating PHD2 ? If you can successfully Calibrate, then PHD2 and your cable are working fine. Using an old Calibration allows you to get into Drift Align, but PHD2 doesn't know that your cable may be faulty, but doing a new Calibration will. Your PHD2 grab shows that big RA pulses are being sent, right up to the Max RA level, and PHD2 is complaining 'cos nothing is happening RA wise. Same with PHD2 Manual Guide. If you set to 5000ms then you should see big jumps in RA, after backlash is cleared. You could check for an intermittant ST4 cable by Calibrating at the Drift Align Azimuth position, if successful try West and East moves with Manual Guide, and again if successful make a big slew and try Manual Guide again to see if the connection has gone. Michael
  9. How can I get better pictures of Jupiter?

    http://www.astropix.com/html/i_astrop/eq_tests/canon_one_to_one_pixel_resolution.html If your dslr has LiveView you might be able to take high quality avi, see the list in the link. Michael
  10. Probably best to play with it during the day. Point at a distant object and adjust focus on the main scope with the knob at the rear. As you've already found it has many turns of range. Once focussed adjust your finder so that it points at the same object. Then later on try on the moon, centre on your finder first then hopfully the moon will be in your eyepiece, you will have to adjust focus again as the moon is much further away than your daytime object, but you shouldn't have to turn many turns on the knob. Michael
  11. Adding a Star Diagonal will present the eyepiece at a better angle for overhead viewing. Here's what you should get with a 10mm eyepiece on your scope:
  12. QHY5Lii - guidecam image problem

    The PHD2 Forum frequently reports that guidecam focus needs to be spot on, defocusing appears to be a myth. Michael
  13. Wanted Remote shutter cable Canon N3 / for older DSLR

    Astronomiser used to sell a serial control cable for early dslrs that didn't have control by usb, perhaps if you contact him he might make you one. The N3 plugs can be bought and soldered on in place of the jack plug. Otherwise it's diy, a resistor, diode, and transistor, and a serial to usb converter if you don't have a serial port. Michael
  14. Help help help

    Hi Stu What scope? The QHY8L and a dslr should give the same field of view, so your dslr experience should tell you whether you were probably on target. Certainly 5 mins should show something, might be that the QHY8L images need stretching compared to the dslr images? This sounds like a case for a quick Platesolve. Download PlateSolve 2 and the star catalogue from planewave.com , its quite lite on disk space, feed it a jpg and your target's ra and dec, and you'll have a result showing the ra and dec of the centre of your shot in a couple of secs, it's very fast. Michael
  15. What screw to SCT 8"

    No, those are UNC sizes.
×