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michael8554

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About michael8554

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  1. Damian Peach's C14 for sale on ABS

    He's that English actor in "Homeland"....... Michael
  2. Hi Philip If you clamp the cable to the tripod screw-hole with a cleat in a tight curve it might give you a secure connection. Michael
  3. Damian Peach's C14 for sale on ABS

    Imagine the disappointment when you realise his C14 is the same as everyone elses, it's his skill that produces those amazing images. Michael
  4. Dewobbleizer - bets on it working?

    "Today We are taking steps to ensure that The Netherlands will never, and I mean never, aquires a nuclear weapon, starting with a ban on plywood"
  5. Dewobbleizer - bets on it working?

    Hi Agnes That should make a difference, but I would make the nearest plate longer, with a semicircle cut out of the righthand end, so that it extends to the meaty casting. Michael
  6. You can't image in a storm!

    Hi Old Eyes There's more to the wind than disturbing your equipment. Down here Clear Outside was showing Greens too, but Meteosat showed lots of Red for Poor Seeing due to the high winds. Michael
  7. I see you have a similar thread running in the Imaging section - why have you started a new thread while the other one is being answered? Michael
  8. Hi Darien As you can see from the stats, RA calibration took 15 steps, but Dec took 49 steps. I too don't know the AVX, but this would suggest the backlash needs physically adjusting, and then anti-backlash applied to finish off. Before Calibrating, did you manually take up the Dec backlash by moving the mount north until you could see the star move? This is an essential step before Calibrating. Michael
  9. Hi Ryan The polar scope is an expensive option that will only get you roughly polar aligned, you'll still need to drift align if you're going to image. You could use Polaris and your existing finder, offsetting Polaris roughly to the hour angle, then drift aligning. You could take a jpg after guesstimating, and use PlateSolve2 to calculate the RA and Dec of the centre of the frame, then adjust accordingly. If you're serious about imaging you should consider guiding, you can then use PHD2's polar align features. Michael
  10. Imaging with a DSLR

    Hi Mick You can download from Canon an image of the CD that is usually supplied with the camera. If you don't see it on Canon UK, try Canon US. You need to load EOS Utilities to drive the camera, and Zoombrowser EX to download the images. Michael
  11. But it’s not real astronomy...

    If you agree that professional astronomers carry out "real" astronomy, then they haven't eyeballed the sky in years. If your images were used in a presentation then there are other members there who don't share his views - ignore him. Michael
  12. Shooting the Aurora

    Further to what Chris says about focusing, after setting, gaffer tape the focus ring so it can't be accidentally moved. Use the histogram to judge exposure, you're after the fastest shutter speed you can get away with to avoid blurring - the curtains move amazingly fast. Wouldn't hurt to take some Darks too if you have to go up to ISO 1600 or 3200. Michael
  13. If I remember correctly, the etx still has to initialise and have the time and date set with the handbox before you can connect via a PC - query with previous owner? Inspect the springy contacts inside the handbox and the base sockets for corrosion, try cleaning with a pencil eraser. Buy a replacement cable, it's the same plugs and wiring as a telephone handset cable. The slewing at switchon might indicate a power problem, despite the handset lighting up. Check for corrosion on the battery contacts, don't use rechargeables, their voltage is too low. Better still, get mains power brick. Michael
  14. Thanks Ken So you mean the original PHD2 polar alignment - I was hoping for a version of your new alignment, as yours gives a much more intuitive display of which way to move the mount !?! Michael
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