Need help with my step by step instructions please

[Thalestris24]

Can't say if it's the problem but it seems like that's a phone charger cable... It may be current limited internally. In any case it doesn't make sense to use such a cable to power a mount that likely needs at least several amps...

Edit: Looking again, it actually says 12-14V input, 12V output at 1A so that's like an internal circuit. You need a passive connector and cable.

[Davey-T]

Something like this

Dave

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-12V-12-Volt-DC-2-1mm-Car-Cigarette-Lighter-Power-Cable-/161432732666?pt=UK_Computing_Other_Computing_Networking&hash=item25962403fa

[ianpwilliams]

I have actually got one of those, which came with the mains power supply with the mount I bought. So it seems that I should try using that mains one with the battery? I might contact FLO first though to check that that's ok, because I would be using a cable other than the one that came with battery. And I'm guessing that FLO would want to know anyway, because presumably other people might end up having the same issue.

[Thalestris24]

I have actually got one of those, which came with the mains power supply with the mount I bought. So it seems that I should try using that mains one with the battery? I might contact FLO first though to check that that's ok, because I would be using a cable other than the one that came with battery. And I'm guessing that FLO would want to know anyway, because presumably other people might end up having the same issue.

On FLO's page it says:

"Tracer battery packs can power any 12V application. As standard we provide connectors to supply Tracer lighting products and also a 12V cigar socket adapter. (Ideal for mobile phone car chargers or portable DVDs)."

So the cigar adapter isn't specified for using with a mount.

[Mick J]

I am sure you can just swap the cables over,  the cigar plug should contain a fuse that may be worth having in line, you may like to ask the experts in another thread.

A cable with just DC battery to DC mount connectors seems obvious but no fuse, no extra protection.  I should think if the Tracer was shorted there may be damage to the mount and battery circuits.   Your getting there bit by bit.

[ianpwilliams]

Well that explains it then. I've emailed FLO anyway to see what they think.

Good old astronomy, if it's not one problem it's seventeen others! Thankfully I've got a long weekend and the snooker to keep me sane.

[FLO]

I might contact FLO first though to check that that's ok, because I would be using a cable other than the one that came with battery. And I'm guessing that FLO would want to know anyway, because presumably other people might end up having the same issue.

There isn't an issue Ian, only a little confusion  

The cable you describe is a charger cable, it enables you to charge the Tracer battery from a car cig' lighter socket. It isn't used to power the mount. 

You say you bought your mount secondhand, if it didn't include a DC lead you will need one of these. 

HTH, 

Steve 

[ianpwilliams]

Oh ok, my mistake then (again!). This is the battery cable on the left, and the DC cable that came with the mount on the right. So hopefully these should do the trick?

[FLO]

Oh ok, my mistake then (again!). This is the battery cable on the left, and the DC cable that came with the mount on the right. So hopefully these should do the trick?

Plug the short cable into the battery's power out socket. Then plug the male cig' plug into the female socket and Bob's your uncle

Two tips: 

Check your mount power lead plug is a good firm push-fit where it enters the mount. 

Tracer batteries are best charged via the supplied mains charger but if you use the DC charger make sure your car's engine is running otherwise you might drain the car's battery. 

If you have mislaid your Tracer instructions please email me for a copy. 

HTH, 

Steve 

[Mick J]

I love popping in and catching up on this thread,  I can see it becoming a great resource, not just for beginners, I hope you will update your original lists Ian.

Can I remember something about the Flo cable having slightly larger cable, bit more robust ?

[ianpwilliams]

Yes Mick J I love having people coming into my thread and seeing me make a complete fool of myself (e.g. by trying to power the mount using one of the cables which is actually supposed to charge the battery). Makes me look REALLY intelligent

But yes, I am updating my list, and it's becoming extremely useful. I'll be happy to post an updated version for anyone else who might also find it useful and avoid my silly mistakes!

On the plus side I've been out tonight (hopefully I've got an in-focus shot of the full moon), and now that the battery is *cough* working, I had a go at tracking down a certain M31. I took a 30-second test shot, and I defintely saw something "Andromeda-y" (albeit not completely centered). The two main issues that I ran into were that I couldn't really do a proper job with the Bhatinov mask, as I couldn't really see any stars through the Live View of the camera, and that the 1GB memory card filled up (I had it set to RAW + JPEG, should have gone for just RAW, and need to buy a bigger card!). But I still did around 30 subs, plus some dark biases, and everything is copying to my PC now! It'll no doubt be tomorrow before I have a proper look, but fingers crossed!

But whatever I ended up with, this means that I successfully POLAR ALIGNED!

[Carina Lass]

Dump the toy cable and get a straight through with no limiter.

The starting torque for the two motors is over 1 amp, which will drop the voltage when exceeded.

Whenever the voltage drops below 12, the processor loses consciousness and forgets where it is pointing

[Carina Lass]

Oops sorry missed the second page.

You seem to be moving along ok now.

[ianpwilliams]

The mount did unfortunately reset itself near the end of the session, and I think it may be because the DC cigar cable isn't entirely secure when connected to the battery cable (it takes virtually no effort to disconnect them), so I maybe have to tape them together or something.

Quick question about stacking - DSS has picture files, darks, flats, and offset/bias. Do I put my dark bias files in via offset/bias or one of the other categories?

[Davey-T]

See, told you Polar Aligning was easy 

The trouble with gigar plugs is the centre pin is spring loaded so naturally has a tendency to gradually disconnect, I've changed all mine to xlr type plugs that twist and lock

Dave

[ianpwilliams]

See, told you Polar Aligning was easy

The trouble with gigar plugs is the centre pin is spring loaded so naturally has a tendency to gradually disconnect, I've changed all mine to xlr type plugs that twist and lock

Dave

It really wasn't all that bad in the end! and I did the whole thing in 90 minutes, which included the two trips down (and then up) the stairs, polar aligning by eye, 3-star alignment once, 2-star alignment twice, imaging the full moon, and taking 30 x 30-second subs of M31! I am yet to discover if M31 is usable, but I can recognise the core from a single shot, not least because that smaller galaxy above M31 is also visible.

I learned so much during that one session, not least that a head torch and fingerless gloves are a godsend, and nice thick gloves for once the imaging has actually begun.

I do have more questions though:

I had real issues seeing stars through the camera's Live View when trying to use the Bhatinov mask. In retrospect, I believe the Live View previews the image based on ISO and sub length, and I may have had mine low due to planning on photographing the moon first. So maybe I need to increase the ISO and sun length during the Bhatinov stage? I was also thinking that maybe I could do the focusing during the first alignment routine, after manually slewing to the first star?

Also, the core of M31 wasn't dead centre. I went ahead anyway, but could I have slewed manually after discovering it wasn't centred? Obviously I couldn't see it while slewing, so I would have to estimate how far to slew, and then take another 30-second shot, and so on (then no doubt delete the test shots). Would there be a way of roughly estimating how far to slew to centre it based on the view in the Live View? And which axis would be inverted when manually slewing?

I also think it might be worth taking the dark bias shots first, just in case you run out of battery or memory card space after taking lots of lights. Can I assume that dark bias have to be RAWs as well? You couldn't get away with JPEGs?

Regarding your power cables Dave, did you remove the connectors yourself and solder on the XLRs? Because I don't think I would be skilled enough to do that. But I do wonder if I can buy a better cable with good solid XLR connectors or similar?

[happy-kat]

Ian just try a higher ISO, quick and easy to test with a digital camera :-)

[carastro]

Sounds like you have made some good progress Ian.  Use a bright star for focussing, I normally focus on one of my alignment stars.

DSLR live view as you say is not that easy.  If you have bright stars in the FOV which indeed there should be with M42 I would judge the position of the nebula in relation to the bright stars that you CAN see on live view.  

Carole

[Yearofthegoat]

Just wanted to say what a great thread this is.

Ian, you're quite brave posting your struggles, so hats off to you!

And now you're 'experienced' I for one would really appreciate a copy of the final version of your setup list. It would definitely save me and other noobs a lot of time, stress, gnashing of teeth, general grumpiness, divorce .... ....

Bet it's great being able to enjoy the hobby at last too.

[ianpwilliams]

Thanks! My theory is that other people will have had most or all of the problems I've had, so if it can help anyone else then great! And it's such a technical hobby that every mistake is understandable (possibly excluding the battery debacle). But I won't consider myself "experienced" for a while yet!

I'll be updating my list today do I'll get it uploaded and posted. There may never be a final version, but you never know!

[happy-kat]

Was going to add while waiting for replies on DSS could take a read through it's help to start pading out your knowledge.

[thohem]

I don't know for sure but your handcontroller should also tell you where Polaris is (Clockwise and last transit). With clockwise position you can get a good PA, with the last transit (12 o clock so bottom of Polarscope) you get a REALLY good PA. No need for pc, polar finder or anything else. Just the handcontroller, synscan above 3.11 and (for the transit method) those pitch circles for fast PA. But as I said: not sure if its on the eq5

Cs

Thomas

[ianpwilliams]

Yeah I'm looking through all the DSS tutorials I can find, and also GIMP ones.

And yes, my SynScan controller does state the Polaris position, but it always confuses me for some reason. But with the small circle and the constellations in both the polar scope and PolarFinder, it's usually not too much trouble to get right.

[Davey-T]

Regarding your power cables Dave, did you remove the connectors yourself and solder on the XLRs? Because I don't think I would be skilled enough to do that. But I do wonder if I can buy a better cable with good solid XLR connectors or similar?

The ones I got from Maplin have screw terminals, just need to make sure you get live and neutral the right way round.

I can see M31  through the view finder enough to centre it

Davr

e

[glowingturnip]

i velcro my cigar cables together.  Have strips of the hooky side stuck on both sides of the plug and the socket, then have long strips of the fuzzy side which i stick on whilst pushing the plugs together.  Seems to work.