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About Yearofthegoat

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    Guildford, Surrey

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  1. I sometimes use a 3.2mm BST Starguider on my 150PDS, which gives 234x magnification. This is above the practical maximum, and therefore not recommended. However, in use I've found that it can deliver stunning (to me) images one minute and the next minute said image 'dissolves' and wavers before coming back to clarity later on - or not! I'm guessing this is due to the seeing varying, so I'm getting away with the high magnification some of the time. It's really a question of whether you want to risk your money for something that might work some of the time. Personally, I'm glad I've got the 3.2mm - it satisfies my curiosity, it wasn't massively expensive, and does truly give me some great views, just not consistently. Your scope is different from mine of course, so it's your decision entirely and what's already been posted is sensible advice. Might you be able to try one before buying it?
  2. If you're certain your polar alignment is good, and you're checking the alignment by looking at your 6D's images, maybe the camera is sagging when the mount is in different positions? Or some flexure somewhere in its connections? Just a thought. I use the Synscan GoTo on my HEQ5 and when my PA is good, it's usually bang on or very near, e.g. in the field of view of a 10mm plossl on my 150PDS. Hope you get it sorted.
  3. (F*nny pack=Bum bag) Just a thought if not too late - if you get a chance perhaps shop for an astro (web)cam while you're there, almost certainly cheaper than here in the UK.
  4. On my Celestron EOS t-ring, the inside of the bayonet connection is threaded - i.e. the camera side. Anyone know what this is for? It's about 48mm diameter, female, couldn't say what the pitch is but it's finer than the t-adapter thread. Filter holder maybe? Or to use some other Celestron doodad? Or just anti-reflection ribbing?
  5. Well, it turns out that the HEQ5 RA axis is slightly scope-end-heavy, i.e. with nothing on the puck. The dec axis is a bit stiffer and doesn't spin in any particular direction (as expected really). I put on a couple of 1kg dumbell weights and they worked, but the hole in the middle is a tad too large. A bit of pipe insulation sorted that, temporarily. Good shout re. hose clamp - am sure I have a couple somewhere. Will keep me going in the meantime at least.
  6. Last night I put my 90mm mak on the HEQ5 - plenty of mount thought I. However, I then realised that the weights I have are too heavy, even a single one close up to the mount. So I'm going to try other things (dumbbell weights etc) while I look for a proper counterweight to suit. I need to find out how much counterweight to add, so does anyone know if the HEQ5 is of itself balanced? I.e. can I simply weigh the scope and select a matching weight in counterweights? Thanks
  7. Thanks @bobro Will give this a whirl once I get some filter holders.
  8. Ah yes, H20. Can't live with it, can't live without it. I looked at the Eksma site the other day, but today I can't seem to find the 25mm lenses, only 25.4mm. Is it me, am sure they were there... will have another look.
  9. 'SD' isn't necessarily equal to 'slow'. This page has lots of info on the speeds and typical usage. E.g SD Class 10 (=10MB/s) will cope with Full HD video recording. As a comparison, a spinning platter PC hard disk will max out at about 60-100MB/s, an SSD would of course be faster. 10MB/s is enough for still images and should be fine for video. As happy-kat says, the buffer can be a bottleneck for continous still image shooting - it is on my 30D and to a lesser extent my 50D. You can get an Integral brand Ultima Class 10 32GB card for £10 on Amazon. SanDisk is a bit more but only £12 or so for a SanDisk Ultra. No point getting a faster card unless you're going to use it in another device of course.
  10. That sounds good. I looked at the cheaper scopes and wondered how good/bad they'd be cf the ST80 etc. Hadn't really considered altering one but it makes a lot of sense. I'm not church-mouse poor but I do like a bit of DIY - more satisfying, particularly if it saves a few £££.
  11. Very interesting. That second image looks good and the lenses aren't especially dear at about €20. Seems a good way to save some money with a bit of effort. Will you test them further e.g. playing with spacings etc? Thanks
  12. Am heading over to the DIY forum, can we see your plans? For the life of me I can't decide on guide scope so am genuinely interested!
  13. Hi. Do you know what size rings the ST80 needs? I'm looking at guidescopes and the ST80 is on my list. Might buy it without rings, hence the need to know what size they take. Thanks!
  14. I'm in a similar quandary. For my setup the pixel ratios guider:imager come out as follows: Orion 50mm: 3.7 Skywatcher ST80 1.5 (both rounded up) How important are these factors compared with: - risk of flexure (ST80 on the 150PDS rings vs Orion on a finder post on the rings) - added weight (ST80 is heavier) - aperture / guide star brightness (80mm aperture @F5 vs 50mm aperture @F3.2) I'm leaning towards the ST80 but the Orion would be lighter and a bit cheaper. Another option may be the Celestron 70mm travel scope, which is a bit cheaper again. Lastly, does a bit more weight actually add to stability, provided the mount isn't overpowered? Questions, questions. Or, just pick any one of them and see how it goes?!
  15. Sounds good. I take it it's in full working order; sending PM.