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thohem

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Everything posted by thohem

  1. Hmm. Still can't decide. I don't really like the open electronics on the Mesu :/ So another opinion on some mounts??
  2. Thanks for your reply. The weight limit on the fornax for imaging should be round 50-60kg according to some reviews. It needs guiding though, but because of the 1:2000 gearbox and the 1:3 downsizing right after the motors, it should run very smooth and all failures should come very slowly so the AG can correct with ease. Well if i had the money to buy a 4k hps then I would rather go for the Asa DirectDriveMount 85....no more gears! I haven't got anyone near me with a 10micron so perhaps some users can give advice here. But good to know that it won't suffice for my plans (much much later ) The
  3. Oh sorry, i forgot Purely imaging. Right now I have a carbon 8" f4 and I want to go for maximun 14" newton or 16" RC. A widefield 72/432 is also in use. For guiding I have MGEN II which also works fine with APT. In summer I'll get myself a Moravian G2-4000 ccd with a set of filters to get rid of my 600Da (which is very nice). I focus mainly on galaxies right now with nebulas here and there. Depends on mood :] I'll see how it works with more load on the eq6 in the obsy, but roadmap is something like a dual image setup. I have to spend some time thinking on that though when the obsy is ready.
  4. Hi there sgl, Our house will be finished soon so I'm starting to think about the 'my' house Obsy is already planned, my self designed steel column (30cm diameter) will be ready next week so perhaps I'll change my NEQ6 to a somewhat sturdier mount. Since everything in the obsy will be ready for big gear, I thought of a DDM85, but that's out of reach atm.... So maybe something 'smaller' like a WS250-FS2, Fornax 102 photo or a 10micron GM 1000 hps. Does someone here have experience with one of those? Especially the fornax has some major advantages, thats why I'm interested in that one in parti
  5. Hi there. You can look up the MGEN 2 Superguider from Lacerta. Subpixelguiding, sensitive guidecam, standalone, canon EOS support, dithering, works perfectly with a normal 8x50 finderscope
  6. There are also Standalone AG out there if you don't want to carry a laptop with you (plus batteries)
  7. Hey there, When I'm out in the field I just love my standalone AG (MGEN2). Easy to use, sets up in 2min and just works (incl. Dithering and camera control). For field use theres nothing better. If you have alrdy an obsy or if you use a laptop anyway for camera control, go with phd. Gesendet von meinem GT-I9300 mit Tapatalk
  8. If you want to get into AP dont bother with fork Mounts or those total useless similar junk. There's only ONE way you can go - EQ Mount. If you alrdy love this Hobby then I suggest at least a NEQ6 Pro (Mount Mount Mount for AP!) and a smaller scope + bits and stuff. Better to buy a sturdy, big Mount, than a smaller one. You have to set it up for your daughter anyways, so it's no deal if it's heavy CS Thomas
  9. In the end, everyone starts using a laptop You connect everything, your full of hope and then your guidecam stays silent. Drivers? Cables? Wheres the problem? You start searching...and possibly find it. Then, finally, everything starts up as you intended and you realise it's slow. Your live view from APT runs with 4 frames and due to sync issues you lose your first light, your guiding or any other control. As already said: using a pc at the scope is ALWAYS the most stable connection. But everyone as he likes wish you luck with your tries
  10. What mount you got? You can use the pitch circles for a fast and more accurate polaris position. Set the RA circle to 0 when polaris has highest position, look at handset for polaris clock position and set RA axis with the pitch circle to that exact location then use screws to get it into the circle. No need for an app nor some calculations. Just needs 5min setup and your far better aligned than with those constellations
  11. AFAIK tommy (the retailer guy) doesn't read sgl so this interchange is a good thing
  12. I didn't intend to post something against the rules (sorry if I did). An open discussion is good and very useful for finding Errors/bugs, but nonetheless I think an extra mail directly to whoever manufactured a device is also the way to go. Two are better than one. I never had issues with my NEQ6 after the update, everythings working as intended
  13. Here in the austrian Forum we have reported those slewing / goto bugs to our dealer (this sounds really odd.... ) and he reported it to SW. As he states, SW Needs more detailed Information than "3.36 isn't working" If you have those Problems, please send an email to [Retailer email address removed, please discuss details openly here in this thread] with the following questions answered: 1. For the issue of failing to resume from parking position. Please let us know what the mount is. Did the customer do the following? 1) Parked the mount. 2) Turned off the power. 3) Turned on the power, and c
  14. I got the box from Lacerta (austrian-hungary company) for an 8" newt - just 80€ for a neutral colour box. Best value for the price imho but don't know of they send it to the uk
  15. I did it exactly as Michael does but I got fed up with the whole process of getting everything started when I want to image. IMHO best and stable solution without ever touching anything again is an obsy pc/laptop/barebone. When I want to image I only have to start the barebone, go outside to open roof, check alignment with astrotortilla and my wifi laptop, start focussing, frame and off I go. There are plenty of solutions, depends on what you want. My network cost like 150€ for a new barebone plus cable to house.
  16. I use a barebone which acts as server too. It has a wifi card so I can check everything with my laptop/tablet when I'm outside. An ethernet cable runs into my house. I found all sorts of solutions with powerline, wifi, usb hubs and so on too weak for that kind of application. I lost contact, lost photos, lost guiding. Since i got the barebone it's stable as hell and I can stack photos while I make flats and shut everything down. Wake on lan is also very useful
  17. Sure it helps (as any other focusing mask). You just have to take a photo, zoom in, look if your in focus, rere-adjust focus, take a pic, zoom in, look, re-adjust and so on....takes a while but is possible
  18. Erm you only connect the camera body to the telescope...no autofocus there as you got no lens (lens is the telescope!). So you HAVE to focus with your Focuser!
  19. Hi there, As alrdy said: most ccds are a good choice if the fov is good. The one thing I really really have to emphasise is a filterwheel. Moravian has good ccds with excellent Filterwheels which connect directly to the ccd, not an extra cable to the pc. I'd choose a ccd with internal wheel, so all filters are protected and you can then use the cheaper 1,25" ones instead of 2".
  20. Exactly Since the head is already tilted, the mount does not need to flip. This would be the best (imho) pier. A welder could build this with ease and costs you next to nothing. ASA sells such piers for over 3k €.
  21. Some say the metal pier is better, some favour the concrete. IMHO: depends on your gear if you go for a steel pier I'd choose one with a knee so you don't have to worry about the meridian flip anymore. Those are quite expensive or you'll get an old gas bottle and know someone with welding equipment. For "just a pier in the garden" I'd favour the concrete. Easy to make by yourself and, if done right, very good. Except for the meridian flip.... I just have a normal concrete pier with 30cm diameter for my NEQ6. Can be easily upgraded to hold an EQ8 later or even heavier. CS Thomas
  22. Some CCDs even don't work when they have an unshared connection. Moravian needs an Usb hub with internal cache, because of sending issues (512bit Clusters). If you really want a stable and reliable remote tech, go for a barebone. I have a NUC for this. Usb3 for the camera, 1xusb2 for the mount and an active usb hub on the last for everything else. GBit lan into my house and if I want to use a laptop I just connect via wifi. I had 4 months of trouble with wifi/cable solutions, usb hubs and the like. Nothing for me, too much hassle. Some manage it and are happy (props to you!) But I couldn't. I
  23. Well thats not entirely true. If pixelsize changes you don't get the same picture. I have never made images with that scope but if it's good (FOV, no abberations etc) the I'd go for a CCD. Mono ofc with some filters, then you double your imaging time (full moon). With a new scope you would gain another FOV and perhaps better pics, but that depends if your scope is good or not
  24. Maybe odd to write my method but here I go 1) check at daytime that your polarscope is aligned with the mount. Point it at an object far away and rotate RA. The crosshair in the middle has to stay spot on. 2) at night: set everything up, power mount and remember one value from the handcontroller: polaris clock. 3) look through PS and rotate RA so that the small circle (where polaris has to be) is at that clock position you got in 2). 4) get polaris in the center of the circle with the bolts 5) put your telescope onto the mount, calibrate goto and your finished. For a more accurate method you
  25. As above stated, when you have a permanent setup it's really good to control everything with a laptop. But if you're out in the field or garden, it's not that useful. You'll be more comfortable when you install stellarium or CdC and look for targets for the night. Check which targets are where and what you'll see through your eyepieces. You can write a plan for the night which objects to go for. A laptop controlled mount is really only useful for imaging, not visual
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