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Everything posted by happy-kat

  1. StarTools is a specially designed astro imaging tool and it's price is not a reflection of its quality, it shoots well above hence it is very good value. You do need to use the right stacking parameters so have a check against the getting started guide Ivo put on the StarTools website.
  2. Hasta la vista green plugin is free (donation) I think. Very good useful.
  3. There was a binocular I had thought Steve has reviewed that his wife also enjoyed for daytime as well and was single focuser adjustment. Opticron naturespot from memory, there is a review on binocularsky website. Have 8*42 here and use for night and day as the weight suits, Celestron Granite.
  4. In the link in my earlier post is showing the OTA on a tripod for light travel. My 16mm is a maxdvision and the 6mm SPL both not now advisable new. I do also have a 30mm Vixrn npl. I like trying different eyepieces and don't like sets or all the same. I would buy a colimation cap at a minimum or make your own from a 35mm film pot. A torch with red light or paint a cheap torch with red nail polish so you don't ruin your night vision. The book turn left at Orion is a great starter to what's is where to observe and how to star hop to it. Get familiar with the main constellation stars and where they are.
  5. If observing from say a stool or sitting on a low rock then you can either use the heritage on it's mount from the floor or stick it on an upturned bucket to raise it a bit further. I use just a colimation cap to collimate mine. For DSO I use a 16mm eyepiece. For high power I have a 6mm though sometimes this is too much if the atmosphere is unstable and drop back to the 16mm.
  6. Not sure what you are asking that's different to what the various replies above cover. The OTA could always be be carried on if the airline accepts it as hand luggage, but you still need a tripod.
  7. What a magical location, love that pond setting. The middle and bottom are my favourites and the startrails are super reflected. Hope your eyes recover well.
  8. The 550d also has advantage of a video crop mode which is useful on planets.
  9. This might be of interest to you, the heritage 130p used on a decent photo tripod. The 25mm works fine, the gap might be in the 15-16mm range and a better 8-10mm eyepiece if you really wanted extra straight away. link here
  10. Finally I found the interesting post. Link here
  11. I've heard of if Caleberg made... But Dyson make hovers
  12. Isn't there something about in the settings enabling the additional encoders from the default shipped setting, and this sorts alignment accuracy.
  13. Chasing bigger objective sizes is perhaps more observing then necessarily imaging, as the bigger the telescope the bigger disproportionately the mount for imaging, plus many DSO are quite big. If you are wetting your toe's could start with the camera and lens equipment you may already own.
  14. That's great it puts it into context of when specifically to select a low score. I've got a stack that only finds one image to stack so I'll give it a go.
  15. Doug on budgetastro.net has tutorials to follow as a starting point they cover deep sky stacker to if you are using that.
  16. With a sensor like in the nikon d3200 it would be 400/the lens focal length for a guide on exposure length before star trails. 400/650 for example is less than one second so your two seconds would have shown star trails. You could get a red dot finder to fit in the camera flash hot shoe, this would help with aiming.
  17. There's a great thread dedicated to using the 130pds full off images taken by other members. Perhaps you'll have to crop the edges if no ff etc but that won't mean you can't still take images.
  18. I would not think there's any risk with buying from a dedicated astro supplier like RVO. But why not ring and check the RVO one is compatible with your mount first to make sure rather than assume it might be?
  19. The trailing with 5 seconds could be slight wind on the telescope magnified by using a barlow.
  20. Reading my Dark Art or Magic Bullet book when using a DSLR or OSC then it is the light frame with the highest score you mark as the reference frame.
  21. If there are no surrounding stars I suspect focus was off
  22. What lens did you use? The camera shows the raw image in preview because the camera is effectively showing a jpeg conversion of it. The No EQ Challenge thread has members who image within the confines of a tracking altaz mount. Focus is key really. After registering your files make the highest scoring file your reference file and try stacking again. Use kappa sigma clipping
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