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Aoraki's build


Aoraki

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Yes Malc, it is tight, very! I have one of those sprays with which I intend to spray the treatment on with. If more intense work is required I'll just remove the fence! That's about the only benefit I can see from owning all four boundary's.

Having used all Tanilised timber, I hope it will be some time before major works are required though.

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I was thinking that. I had a cat trapped down the side of my workshop once. Had to leave it rot away. :) I have mesh all around now, keeps the leaves and wild life at bay.

Now that's an idea, we have two cats ourselves and wouldn't want anything untoward happening.

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I lined both parts of my obs with 12mm ply. (1) for a neater look and (2) for an extra layer of security. Someone might be able to pry off a couple of lengths of shiplap but would have to smash through 12mm ply which would make a bit of a noise!

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Wow how did I miss this thread? Very impressive.

Carole

Yeah, I missed this thread too and stumbled across it via a link on another thread. This is a very impressive build.

Just an open question. I've read many fantastic observatory build threads both on here and Cloudy Nights. I noticed that quite often on the CN ones (which tend to be in the USA), they wrap the framework with a vapour barrier membrane prior to attaching the shiplap cladding, whereas I don't recall ever seeing that done on builds here in the UK. Can anyone comment on this?

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Yeah, I missed this thread too and stumbled across it via a link on another thread. This is a very impressive build.

Just an open question. I've read many fantastic observatory build threads both on here and Cloudy Nights. I noticed that quite often on the CN ones (which tend to be in the USA), they wrap the framework with a vapour barrier membrane prior to attaching the shiplap cladding, whereas I don't recall ever seeing that done on builds here in the UK. Can anyone comment on this?

Regarding the vapour barrier, I have done it on mine, http://stargazerslounge.com/1968720-post123.html and one other to my knowledge.

With most shiplap I have encountered there is nearly always knot holes and if one should be on a "run" in the shiplap rain is going to pour in.

It also helps on the corners to stop water seep. I will also be capping mine.

The vapour barrier I used is the breathable type, where the air can pass through but not water.

I will also be using it on the roof between the OSB and the steel profile sheeting.

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Regarding the vapour barrier, I have done it on mine, http://stargazerslounge.com/1968720-post123.html and one other to my knowledge.

With most shiplap I have encountered there is nearly always knot holes and if one should be on a "run" in the shiplap rain is going to pour in.

It also helps on the corners to stop water seep. I will also be capping mine.

The vapour barrier I used is the breathable type, where the air can pass through but not water.

I will also be using it on the roof between the OSB and the steel profile sheeting.

Thanks Tony - yet another build thread I missed and can now enjoy reading with both admiration and envy. :D

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I lined both parts of my obs with 12mm ply. (1) for a neater look and (2) for an extra layer of security. Someone might be able to pry off a couple of lengths of shiplap but would have to smash through 12mm ply which would make a bit of a noise!

That's one of the reasons I'm lining mine. There have been several sheds broken into locally by this method, and expensive quad bikes and sit on mowers nicked.

I know one chap who has threaded thin SWR through the frame of his shed every 12". Good idea I thought.:D

I have been looking for the ply panelling we use to get years ago which had an effect like the oak panels in men's clubs, snooker rooms etc.

Unfortunately I can't find any. Handiland use to stock it, but I don't know if they are still going.

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30th Oct 2011

Progress has been very slow this week, very little time/light after work and a day out at Alton Towers yesterday.

The final few pieces of ply and insulation got fitted today, looks a nice and clean couple of rooms now.

Second fixed electrical system, two doubles and single socket in warm room and two doubles in scope room along with one double light switch in each room for white and red lights. Still need to buy the bulkhead lights, I need to look back through other threads for the red bulkheads.

Consumer unit and breakers mounted and connected, SWA connected this end but not connected to mains yet.

All circuits tested and proved ok with multimeter. That's this weeks update.

PS took delivery of "H" profile brush strip, these will be fitted to draft/dust/small rodent proof the roof to walls when I get time.

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That brush strip looks ideal. I have one short piece which fits a door bottom but will probably want more. Unfortunately FH Brundle are trade only. I'll have to do a search. I like the brush idea - I think it will seal better than D shape strip on rough wood.

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Gina, find a local welder/fabricator or gate fabricator, most likely they will have an account with FH Brundle. The brush strips are £17 plus vat. Also p&p applies to orders under £150.
Thanks for that :icon_salut:
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Tony, what wattage lamp are you using in those bulkheads? I thought 40 or maybe 60 would be ok.

I haven't installed them in the obsy yet. I have just connected them to a mains outlet socket using a dimmer in-line.

I initially thought a 40w would do, but settled on a 60w knowing I could dim it if necessary.

Once they are up in the obsy I'll be able to suck it and see. The good thing is these lamps will take up to 100w in most orientations.

I will also trial different types of bulbs and see how they perform.

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I put the brushes on the side of my roof, and on the front so that it stops any water coming in via the track (and also cleans it!). One additional advantage in my case is that the brushes provide enough friction to stop the roof rolling on its own or with the wind!

Helen

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