nfotis

If you can use your Nikon, it should be a better option for DSO imaging. Larger sensor and pixel size, if I am not mistaken. It takes some effort, of course, to get good results (a guiding mount is necessary). N.F.

Forgot to mention that the combination of the scope and a fork mount (CPC series) is quite heavy (around 65 pounds for the CPC1100, if I remember correctly), excluding the tripod. Carrying it out every night gets old quickly. For C9.25 and above scopes, I feel that having the OTA separate from the mount is easier to carry, if you are not planning a permanent installation from the start. For a C9.25, a HEQ5 mount is enough (don't remember the Celestron equivalent). The next mount is the NEQ6, which I think can handle a C11 for visual and (barely) for long exposure astrophotography. A pier is nice, if you plan on a semi-permanent location (the tri-pier from iOptron is an interesting proposal). You can even mount the huge C14 alone, using the trick on the video below (of course, this requires a heavy mount and a pier for best stability) Hope that this helps, N.F.

On paper, the Sky-watcher 100ED looks like a good refractor telescope for planetary observation (the focuser problem mentioned on the FLO link is a bit worrying, though). What's the mount load limit and the budget limit? N.F.

Check the second hand market if you want something quick. Maksutovs are very tolerant of eyepieces, compared to fast scopes. I would suggest looking for something around 7-8mm for planetary observation. N.F.

Here's the video:

May I suggest a Skymax 127 or 150 instead of the Newtonian scope? For planetary, moon and solar observation is offering a refractor-like view and long focal length (1800mm). Check with this site, compare the field of view possible with various cameras and eyepieces (a 7-8mm eyepiece with the Skymax 127 should give nice planetary views): https://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/ FLO has excellent reputation, and they are fast and helpful (hoping to order stuff soon from them). A general problem is equipment availability, due to a spike in Astronomy interest and low rate of deliveries. Hope this helps, N.F.

My only experience with telescopes is the above mentioned Maksutov 127 (I got the -used- tube only, then mounted it on a photographic tripod). Lots of fun, but it takes some effort to hunt the moon and the planets by rotating the tripod head. With an 7-8mm eyepiece it gives nice planetary views. Later, I bought a used HEQ5 mount (overkill for it, but I wish to try my hand into astrophotography as well). The Mak includes a diagonal, which corrects the view orientation, I suppose that a Newtonian scope like the one you ordered corrects it by default? Enjoy, and welcome to the forum, N.F.

Scopes are not really fast-moving technologically, the OTA barely changes over decades. If you buy the OTA (optical tube assembly) separately, you are not tied to a particular builder, and you can mix-and-match with your preferred mount and computer. For control via WiFi, the CPC GPS version should be the most automated. I don't know what's the Celestron policy on updating the software of the embedded computer. If you prefer separate parts, you could use a ZWO ASIair Pro (essentially, a Raspberry Pi embedded computer, which offers lots of capabilities) on an AltAz mount like the AZ6 GTI or somesuch. The integration will take some work, though. Hope this helps, N.F.

I am interested in this subject as well. If I get a C9.25, what would be the best route for planetary shots? If I go for the ASI290 OSC, should I stay at native focal length? Or should I try with a 2x or so Barlow? What if I try with an ASI533? I guess that the only way is to try for ourselves, because there are so many individual parameters to change the end result... (seeing, atmosphere, mount, etc) N.F.

A cure for aperture fever is becoming old and having to carry the scope and mount every time... N.F.

Both seem to be quite good, I would guess you just have to try checking reviews. Not all EP in both ranges are the same quality (it seems that the BST are best at 12 and 15mm, while the SW are up to 9mm - so I would suggest a SW 7 or 9mm and a BST 12mm). Or you could try the SVBONY zoom 8-24mm, so you can check various ranges before you commit to a fixed EP. For checking the field of view, try this page (you check the SW EP and instead of the default 2.5 mm you try 8 and 9mm): https://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/ Hope this helps, N.F.

So, the question becomes: Skymax 180 or CC8? Having f/12 instead of f/15 and an open tube (fewer acclimation delays) seem to be the main advantages (and a good dual speed focuser) for the GSO (I suppose that these are the same quality as the TS units). On paper, the main advantage of the Skymax 180 seems to be a slightly longer focal distance (not a huge difference). And no diffraction spikes due to the spider vanes. What's the visual and imaging quality, though? I haven't seen many examples in Astrobin by both types. N.F.

Still on the fence about this and the Skymax 180. I don't like the spider vanes and the resulting diffraction pattern, but I suppose that for planetary observation and imaging these aren't a problem. I have seen that the Omegon brand version is cheaper than the TS one, I wonder if there's any quality difference? Or different accessories? Also, the GSO site doesn't mention the classic Cassegrain series at all. As I live in Athens, Greece dew and cold aren't usually a problem. Would a few shield be useful as a stray light block, though? Since I have a HEQ5 mount, I suppose that I'll have to reverse the mounting rails in order to have the guide scope on top, right? Does this involve cutting holes as well? Cheers, N.F..

Any new impressions on this model? Researching for a big brother to my Skymax 127 and the HEQ5 mount I own, and this looks interesting compared to the Skymax 180. N.F.

Excellent tutorial (I have bought a used HEQ5 Pro mount, no belt drive), so I will keep this one on my list. N.F.

From what I remember, the MN190 is a rare breed. Quite heavy for a HEQ5 mount, it has its own niche. I wouldn't expect a new model of this type. N.F.

Depends on temperatures and atmospheric stability. The 127 has a rather small glass element, if you go from an air conditioned room with it into desert temperatures, it may need more than half a hour to acclimate. N.F.

Note: there's not much room for a dual speed 2" focuser on the back of the Skymax 127, it hits the standard focuser. I tried (and failed) to install one, and I had to revert back to the original configuration. N.F.

For really wide field astrophotography, why not use a short refractor? Or a camera lens like the Samsung 135mm? I have seen amazing stuff done with the latter. Its cost would be much less than the difference of cost for a full frame sensor and the costly filters, etc. N.F.

From what I have read, my understanding is that the quick temperature changes result in air turbulence inside the tube. Insulation makes the temperature changes much more gradual, leading to reduced turbulence while the scope reaches ambient temperature (either going up or down). N.F.

Nice. Didn't you need any digging for securing the pier? N.F

Nice work and idea. How did you keep the blocks from falling? (These look like concrete?) I suppose that this is quite cheaper than a steel pier and easier to assemble? N.F.

Can I suggest another approach? (no experience with this, but there are adaptors for SW mounts) https://www.firstlightoptics.com/ioptron-mounts/ioptron-tri-pier-portable-pier-tripod.html N.F.

Hello there, if I understand correctly, the GEM45EC offers an RA encoder. My question is, where is this useful and it's worth a thousand additional EUR compared to the standard version? Also, I am thinking that it would be a nice combo with the portable tri-pier, but I am still a HEQ5 guy so what do I know? 🙂 Cheers, N.F.

I am leaning towards the ASI183 at the moment, but others may be better. N.F.