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Everything posted by nfotis

  1. Intriguing. So, what's the smallest Mak which can accept directly 1.25" eyepieces? N.F.
  2. You may want to check this tutorial from Cuiv on hubblesite, in case you didn't see it already: N.F.
  3. I know this is tangential, but may I suggest going to NASA or other institutions and download Hubble and other telescopes data for exercising your processing workflows? This should keep you busy enough on cloudy nights... https://hla.stsci.edu/ https://archive.stsci.edu/missions-and-data/hst https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XR1DQRO69E N.F.
  4. Welcome to SGL. You should find this forum quite an interesting place. You might be interested in my first night with the Skymax 180 topic (need to find time to carry the equipment to the rooftop again for some more fun): Regards, N.F.
  5. Note that I was exposing at f/30, so I wasn't able to raise the FPS without raising the gain much. Another idea would be to try my C9.25 with 2x and 3x Barlow, to see how well it works at f/20 and f/30... Cheers, N.F.
  6. Apologies for overlooking the answers in this topic. I don't remember about the height, but Athens in end of May wasn't bad. I must retry now that temperatures are falling to more humane levels (carrying stuff two levels above to the rooftop under heat is no fun at all) N.F.
  7. Personally, I like the LG IPS panels regarding color, I feel these offer a quite pleasing color rendition out of the box without a garish palette (I feel that Sony and Samsung are overdoing it in their settings). All TVs and monitors can be correctly or badly adjusted, so avoid playing with the color palette initially until your eyes learn to discern the colors. N.F.
  8. I use a 2x Barlow on my Skymax 180, as there's no such thing as too much focal length when shooting planets Usually, most planetary camera sensors have optimum sampling around f/20, so a 1.5x to 2x Barlow should complement nicely the Skymax. An electronic focuser is also quite helpful. Manually focusing is quite shaky for me on my HEQ5 mount. Enjoy, N.F.
  9. Hmm, for faint objects, if you dislike spider vanes and spikes and you don't want a SCT or Maksutov, it seems that your only option is a larger refractor? I was going to suggest an 102ED, but it seems that you are already covered. An 125 Apochromatic isn't a large enough jump, I think, while an 152 ED or similar is too large If you are interested in astrophotography (implicit due to the remark about spikes), a photographic lens might be another solution? N.F.
  10. If you dislike spikes due to spider vanes (I do), I suggest either an SCT or a Maksutov if you want a long focal distance. A C9.25 or a Skymax 150/180 might be a nice complement to your existing scope. What's the load rating of your mount? N.F.
  11. Hello there, If I remember correctly, turning the focuser on the tube counterclockwise pushes the primary mirror forward. N.F.
  12. Note that there's also the IMX464 sensor (exactly double the area of the IMX462, and double the megapixels, four instead of two), with the same technology. At least Player One offers this sensor: https://player-one-astronomy.com/product/neptune-c-ii-usb3-0-color-camera-imx464/ N.F.
  13. If you have such a dark sky available, an OSC sensor is more than enough to record all the colour and detail you want in multiple targets per night. N.F.
  14. I am a newbie in DSO imaging (I know only planetary imaging - a bit), but I suppose that in Bortle 8-9 areas like Athens some kind of filtering is required? It seems that every manufacturer offers its own gain/mode/whatever parameters (and every program has its own idea about acceptable parameter ranges, judging by the NINA thread and native vs ASCOM drivers). This can lead to a real mix-up, if we don't keep carefully notes of parameters etc. N.F.
  15. Another discussion popped up about these cameras on CN (I think it would be a good idea to use this thread as a clearinghouse about these) https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/786752-risingcam-imx-571-and-nina/#entry11329758 N.F.
  16. Thanks for the guide. Maybe you could do a Youtube version of this guide? N.F.
  17. It seems that the sensor is quite good. This camera looks a plain vanilla version compared to others (no tilt plate etc). If you are getting these results without LP or NB filters, I wonder how well this camera will work using filters. N.F.
  18. Quite satisfied with mine 7-21mm SVBONY EP, on a C9.25 and a Skymax 127/180 pair. It's very usable, and offers quite an ease of use, compared to a tray of pricey EPs. As I am more into planetary photography, I haven't expanded my EP selection much, but these catadioptric scopes are quite easy on eyepieces. If you are going to use the zoom EP on a fast scope, you may experience some visual aberrations. N.F.
  19. In general, a 2x Barlow before your camera is a good combination - you need LONG focal length and f/15 to f/20 (depending on sensor) The ASI224 sensor might be the best for your needs. N.F.
  20. If you remove your lens from your Canon, doesn't the shutter activate? I vaguely remember a "Release shutter without lens" menu option on various models, but it doesn't seem to exist on the 6D Mk2 (I own a 80D and a 6D myself) N.F.
  21. A good idea would be to check with the field of view calculator in https://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/ Select "Imaging Mode", your scope and the camera/sensor you plan using in order to check framing with various targets. The IMX571 sensor in cameras like the ASI2600 should be a good match for this scope N.F.
  22. Windy conditions are a challenge even on the EQ6-R mount, when speaking about long exposures. If I had additional funds, I think that I would love going for the EQ6-R myself. N.F.
  23. Depends on the weight of your future equipment. The HEQ5 mount is a little agrarian, but it does the job and it's relatively easy to carry alone (15 kg without the counterweights, or so). I have put up to a C9.25, and it can handle it for visual and planetary imaging. For DSO imaging, I would prefer an EQ6-R myself, if I had the money. N.F.
  24. You may be interested in my impressions from my Skymax 180 (added some sample photos as well)
  25. For me, the closed tube construction of the Maksutov and SCT is an advantage in the long term (less worry about the primary mirror getting exposed to the weather elements). And no diffraction spikes. On the other hand, the front glass element introduces a bit of chromatic aberration while the CC is a pure mirror system. Regarding collimation, the Maksutov seem to be the least troublesome. And these seem to offer refractor like views, with high contrast thanks to their long focal length. All these designs are well suited for planetary and lunar observation thanks to their long focal length. Due to their mass production variations, it's possible to get a better C9.25 than a Skymax 180 or the reverse (same for the CC8), but it's my understanding that Synta produces the Skymax 180 at a very consistent quality. N.F.
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