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About Midnight_lightning

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  1. I am experimenting but its complicated by my lack of experience processing both SHO or Bicolour. I found an SHO workflow which worked for this image but when I tried to adapt it to Bicolour on the same image using just the Ha/OIII the results weren't as good. I don't know whether its the data or my processing that is the problem. As I'm writing this I just thought maybe go through Astrobin and see what others are achieving with Bicolour - that should help
  2. I'm relatively new to narrow band imaging and have just produced my first SHO image using PixInsight and following a LightVortex tutorial step by step. I have a dilemma but don't know enough to know what to do, all suggestions welcome. The dilemma is this, I have 7 filters, L, R, G, B ,Ha, SIII, OIII but only a 5 position filter wheel and it drives me mad swapping filters so I'm thinking of upgrading to a 7 filter wheel but would be expensive. I intend to produce this style of NB image with Golds and Blues rather than include green and I'm wondering if I can get this effect using Ha and OIII only rather than SHO? If so I can manage with a 5 filter wheel by using Ha in place of L - i.e. R,G,B,Ha,OIII. So I guess the question is, If I want to produce Gold / Blue NB images does SHO or HO give the best result ? Thanks Jon
  3. I run a Sky Watcher Esprit 80/400 APO with SX Mini FW (17oz) and SX814 CCD camera (14oz) with SharpSky focusser. Total weight on focusser draw tube is 31oz or nearly 2lb. I want to upgrade to the larger SX USB/OAG seven position FW (28oz) but this will take the total weight to 42oz (2lb 10oz) Two questions. Will the Esprit handle that much weight on the focusser draw tube? Will the SharpSky auto-focusser be able to hold the weight without slipping? If anyone has experience of using an Esprit 80 with heavy FW/Camera I would be interested to know how much weight you have and how you get on with it. Cheers Jon
  4. Hi Annie, great to hear from you, its been a while I'm still trying to reach a conclusion on the issue I have but I suspect it is different to the one you outline. The problem only happens with the Blue filter and I think a cut filter would probably help but different makes operate at different wave lengths (e.g. from 380 or 400) and I'm not sure what I need - my other filters are Baader. I'm also keen to find out what issues a Cut filter may add, for example you mention reflections and every new bit of glass is a potential source. All the best Jon
  5. Hi, I have found some similar posts but not found the answer I need so I hope you will bear with me. I have been using the above equipment for a while without issue for LRGB HA SII OIII (Baader) images but last night went for B33 and Altinak, in particular, has come out very bloated on the Blue stack - see images (Note the combined image has no calibration - just a quick stretch in star tools). I guess previous targets didn't have such bright stars in them. Any suggestions for how to overcome this issue? An IR/UV cut filter has been suggested and my scope takes a 2" filter somewhere in front of the filter wheel, is this the way forward, if so any suggestion on brand/specificaytion - I see different makes cover different bandwidths? Are there any known issues with these filters, it would mean that it also gets used in conjunction with all my other filters including NB? I'm a bit worried about losing nebulosity etc. I don't like adding more glass into the imaging train but I'm thinking I may not have any other option - or does someone produce an LRGB set with an IR/UV cut already built into the Blue filter? Thanks Jon
  6. I have been struggling with some aspects of my SA and came across some products that have solved a couple of issues so thought I would share my experience. The first issue was finding a suitable tripod, one for home use and one for travel. The home use was solved with the recent Skywatcher stainless steel tripod with 3/8" screw (a modified HEQ5 tripod), which I highly recommend - bulky but solid. The travel tripod was more problematic, I have an excellent carbon fibre travel tripod but it just isn't good enough for the SA. One of the challenges in finding a travel tripod is it needs to be high enough to use the polarscope which places even higher demands on the Tripod. I have partially addressed this by using a right angle finder on the Polarscope which means I can now manage with a much lower Tripod and am looking at the Berlebach range. I used the "Neewer Perfect 1x-2x Right Angle Viewfinder for Canon,Nikon,Pentax,Panasonic and Other Digital SLR Cameras" (£25 on Amazon). I find the quality of this finder adequate and the 2x zoom makes it much easier to get accurate positioning of Polaris - I also no longer get a stiff neck doing polar alignment. My biggest find was a chap in France, Phillipe, who makes/prints SA accessories and he supplied me with a printed connector that attaches the finder to the polar scope - it is simply brilliant. Very accurately made and held on with 3 thumb screws. I'm very impressed with this, so much so that I went back and purchased his illuminator which replaces the SA one. The new illuminator can be attached to the L-Bracket which means it's easy to check PA during a session. He also does a similar connector to allow the original SA illuminator to be attached to the L-Bracket (it also takes the Pole Master). I am very impressed with these items, they are a little expensive but have transformed my use of the SA. If anyone is interested take a look at http://www.astrokraken.fr/ Hope this helps, I have read loads of posts around tripods, Polar alignment etc so I know there are quite a few people facing the same issues I had.
  7. Hi WIm, yes did DBE. I have since used PCC and got much better colours.
  8. Thanks Wiu-Wiu, sounds like doing some pre-processing first will avoid needlessly discarding some subs.
  9. Hi, I'm new to PixInsight and have ben reading up about the above but have a few questions. At least one tutorial suggests running calibration before using these tools. I use Astro Pixel Processor for pre-processing and have options to export subs after Calibration, the first step in the process, and also after Normalisation which is the last step before Registration. Should I use the calibrated or normalised subs? Second question, I don't know how calibration/normalisation works. If each sub is processed independently of the others I'm comfortable but I suspect each sub must be standardised (averaged) against the other subs at some point(s) in the process. If this is the case then surely putting bad subs into pre-processing must adversely affect the good subs through this standardisation. In which case i'm thinking that Blinky and SS should be used prior to pre-processing? I would be grateful for advice on when to use Blinky/SS and also what to look for. I want to drop the worst frames, without being overwhelmed by science are there any simple rules/things to look for to acive this. FWHM and Noise seem to be key to me, can I just drop frames with outliers in these criteria? Thanks Jon
  10. I had done Channel Combine before DBE, will try again doing as you say.
  11. I haven't noticed any issues using tar Tools but haven't anything to compare it with in PI as yet. I'm just wondering if M31 itself might have a blue bias - perhaps the histogram is ok?
  12. Thanks AKB, that's what I needed, I hadn't noticed the scroll bar appear.
  13. Hi, Just purchased PI after brief trial and am processing M31. I have 300s lights: Red- 8 Blue - 11 Green -12 When I go to stretch I notice the blue channel appears stronger - see image. Prior to this I did the following. Channel Combine of RGB stacks (pre-processed in APP) Dynamic Crop DBE Noise reduction with Multiscale linear transform I reversing the stretch, splitting the RGB, and applying linear fit but then I got a similar result in HT but with the Red signal spike. Any thoughts, is the blue spike a problem, if so where did it arise and how do I treat it? Thanks Jon
  14. EDIT. Ignore this I just found a minimise button top right of screen - cant see how to delete the post. Hi, I recently started using PI and keep getting windows, mainly the Real Time Preview, stuck under the tool bar at the top of the screen. So I lose access to be able to move/minimise the window. Can anyone tell me how to a) avoid this and b) how to close/minimise the window when it happens? Thanks Jon
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