Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.



  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

281 Excellent

1 Follower

About gilesco

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. I often end up recommending the Skymax 127Mak, despite not having ever owned one myself, it comes up so often on beginner threads, I still consider buying one as a get and go scope.
  2. There has been interest for most of the accessories, so if you wanted to sell any of them on to subsidise your mount purchase then I'm sure there would be interest, I could give you the details of people who have shown interest on here. As I said though, I'm offloading this as a job lot, and more keen so if I have to ship (which is very likely for the next month or so given current UK lockdown).
  3. I've heard good things about High Point Explore Scientific in the USA: https://explorescientificusa.com/ https://www.highpointscientific.com/
  4. It just screws on, once tight you can focus in both directions - if manually focusing I just used the focus knob on the other side, or attached the hand control to the motor so as to not disturb the scope, it's also easier to fine tune with the hand control. If you want to make an offer then by all means PM me, but as an all-in lot I think that's a good price. This is the mount that typically is supplied with the ST120T when bought new: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/alt-azimuth-astronomy-mounts/skywatcher-az3-alt-az-mount.html Of course, getting the OTA separately means that you can opt for an EQ mount.
  5. NUCs, in general, do have fans, and you want to ensure that they get a fresh supply of unheated air. If a NUC is fanless, then it is usually advertised as such (e.g. the "UltraNUC fanless"). In any case, you should ventilate them, and the internal air temperature should not exceed 50 deg C during operation.
  6. There are a number of focus options, in addition to the below you can also force a focus on a filter change. I think refocus after meridian flip is either in the pipeline or already there as well.
  7. I can confirm that I have the original box, shippnig will cost about £10 for scope and accessories (next day courier), and the Oklop bag will need to go separately (Royal Mail tracked). So would put up to £335. Oh and a note - I had to decouple the Focus motor from the OTA to go in the box, but all the screws and parts are there to put it back on (or you can choose to put the original focus knob back on instead). I've also put in the needed hex key to secure it to the shaft.
  8. I will need to check what packaging I could put together, I believe the original box for the OTA is still in my attic. Unfortunately Norwich would be a ~650mile round trip for me, so it would have to be via a courier.
  9. I have about 6 or 7 prior releases of Raspberry Pis just lying around, but they are sufficiently cheap enough for me to just buy the high-end ones that get released, I think I'd only change that if the highest spec one suddenly cost more than £100 / unit and actually, I probably end up buying more than one, as the first batch tend to have some bugs, which get ironed out with minor board revisions and tweaks without changing the part / model number. I will probably end up donating the old ones to the under-privileged / schools etc... but I find it especially useful to sometimes just have access to a number of basic Linux boxes for other areas (I work in IT and Networking).
  10. I can only see the 8GB version being an advantage in the future, perhaps when people move to a 64-bit version of Raspbian, and then perhaps if live stacking is added to the platform. However, the Linux kernel always benefits from extra memory, it serves as a buffer and cache for disk reads and writes. Not just in userspace but system space too.
  11. There have been a lot of anecdotal forums posts about the Wifi strength on the Raspberry Pi. Personally I have not had any issues, but I only use the Wifi if I am running Kstars on the Pi itself, and locally storing exposures. If I choose to run Kstars on my desktop indoors then I always use a ethernet cable. It is impossible to provide a root cause analysis for all the reports that we see, there are many possible contributors to the issue: Case, everyone chooses their own case, which will cause a differing amount of interference. Distance to AP, or AP mesh, together with other possible obstructions, including the telescope / mount itself. Whether using a 2.4Ghz band or 5Ghz band for wifi. 5Ghz is more stable on the Pi and faster at shorter ranges, 2.4Ghz is less stable and prone to other issues, it is also generally slower than 5Ghz. Other Wifi networks in the vicinity. This is more of an issue with 2.4Ghz, where the channels overlap and in truth only 3 networks can co-exist in the same physical space without conflicting with each other, causing bandwidth loss due to CSMA-CA, but it can also happen with 5Ghz networks. Other Radio interference, e.g. Microwave Ovens, Wireless Doorbells, Wireless DECT telephones, GPS receivers and general electronic interference from many other devices. Raspberry Pi power supply, the Pi4 needs a good PSU, generally capable of 5.1V 3A sustained supply, and this often needs to still be the case even when operating in sub-zero temperatures. I am not sure if even the official PI4 power supply is rated to operate at low temperatures. If you absolutely need uninterrupted fast connectivity to your Pi then use an Ethernet cable. If you just need to monitor a Pi running Kstars pretty much autonomously then it is OK to use the Wifi to monitor the sesssion progress via Wifi.
  12. See how the basic setup works for you, get used to the equipment, learn how to use it, just buy what you need to get started. All the other stuff can come later, if I had bought all my equipment at the start then I would have spent over 13000 euro and wouldn't know how any of it worked, because there would be too much and I wouldn't work out where the problem was. Forget the binoviewer idea, get started with trying not to squint looking through a mono lens, you have young eyes, If you need / choose binoviewers in the future then it is an easy upgrade. Don't get me wrong, your enthusiasm is commendable
  13. With a binoviewer you are likely to need 2x the eyepieces. I'd really suggest you slow down and think about a plan to slowly edge yourself into this, get the Mak127, get the AzGti mount, see how you go, then look at potential upgrades.
  14. Yes, agreed, I think I would need a 36mm Filter Wheel, the standard ZWO OAG would probably be re-usable though. Looks like I'll have to get a couple more years of use out of the ASI1600MM
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.