Northernlight

Hi David, Thanks for the reply - I took the leap and bought a set of CatsEye collimation tools and boy what a difference having a 2" Cheshire makes. The combination of the Blackcat XLS 2" cheshire and the Blackcat Xl for the primary make thing so much easier. Now the Catseye XKLP auto collimator - i'm not a fan of that - as i really struggled with it. The good news is that i sorted my collimation and it looks so much better now. Cheers, Rich.

apparently they are not available until end of Fed, so a bit of wait to get my hands on one. I'll do proper review once i get one.

I guess for imaging - contrast is less important than visual - for me it'a about holding collimation across the sky better

Hi John, was that for visual or Imaging ? It's good news if there is very little impact on diffraction spikes as i only want one of these CNC cells to stiffen up the front of the scope as i think the oversized secondary of the Quattto Series flexes the standard spider vanes as it moves across the sky.

Going to have a look online to see if i can see any imaging examples. I can only assume they help with holding collimation and dont have too much of a detrimental impact on the diffraction spikes as all the high end scopes are using them.

Hi Mark, here is the link to the 10" one, but they also do a 8" version, but they are bloody expensive https://www.telescopi-artesky.it/en/artesky/tuning/5087-retrofit-secondario-artesky-per-newton-250-skywatcher-8055517137109.html

Hi All, Just wondering if anyone out there had upgraded their secondary spider to use one of these CNC secondary cells ? just looking for some feedback to see how much of a difference they make - primarily interested from a collimation perspective, but also interested to see how much it impacts your diffraction spikes. Cheers, Rich.

So you think this is secondary rotation error ??

Hi All, I recently bought a SW Quattro and in the process of setting it up. So far i'm seeing some strange things during the setup process. I've used a 2" concentric tool to setup the secondary and in the tool the secondary appears perfectly central and presenting a perfect circle but the inner circles appears oval shaped as per Image A below. looking down a cheshire sight tube - The black shadow which appears oval is more obvious as per Image B. So not sure what is causing this - i.e.is it tilt in the focuser or maybe rotation or tilt error on the secondary. Any help woul

Hi All, I'm setting up a new ES HR coma corrector and initial testing shows coma only on the left side of the image. I know the spacing between my camera and coma corrector isn't quite perfect as i'm waiting for some fine tuning adapter - Is this likely to be some sort of tilt issue. ? Maybe on the focuser Cheers Rich,

you all make fair points - i just think that there is a much larger choice of OSC camera when compared to options available for mono in the consumer market these days, whilst going back 5-10 years ago the market for camera was predominantly mono, so i think there has definitely been a transition to more people wanting OSC than mono.

Hi All, I just recieved my new 10" Skywatcher Quattro yesterday and noticed that the light baffles only come half way up the tube - Is this another chnage in design, as I thought on previous earlier models i thought that the baffled came 3/4 of the way up the tube, i.e. 75% of tube covered vs only 50% I might have it all wrong and that they always had 50% of the tube covere din baffled, so would love to hear from other quattro owners. Cheers, Rich.

Mark, I just tried a heavy 2" Barlow in the draw tube and i can tell you it is a very snug fit and the self centering adapter works flawlessly and seems rock solid with absolutely zero flop. i know i haven't attached it to the scope yet - but i am very impressed with what i have seen so far. Rich.

Hi Mark, I'll be posting an update once it's fitted if my quattro ever arrives. In the meantime, i might nip to the shed and put a 2" eye piece in the drawtube and see how well it holds it.

you want a really short draw tube - the shorter the better as it makes it far more rigid. You can also use extension tubes, which then doesn't impact on the sturdiness of the draw tube mechanism.