Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'tutorial'.
Found 5 results
Hey all, I made an acquisition and processing tutorial a while back (3 years ago? Yikes!) and it is fairly dated in terms of what I'm doing these days. I've been asked for a long time to make a new one showing what I'm doing these days. Specifically how I'm processing a single shot image for both the surface and prominences and how to process them together to show prominences and the surface at once. I've abandoned doing split images and composites and strictly work from one image using layers. Acquisition does not use gamma at all anymore. Nothing terribly fancy, but it's not exactly intuitive so hopefully this new video will illustrate most of the fundamentals to get you started. Instead of an hour, this time it's only 18 minutes. It's real time from start to finish. I'm sorry for the long "waiting periods" where I'm just waiting for the software to finish its routine, it lasts 1.5 minutes and 30 seconds tops typically at first. The first 4 minutes is literally just stacking & alignment in AS!3. I typically will go faster than this, but wanted to slow down enough to try to talk through what I'm doing as I do it. Hopefully you can see each action on the screen. I may have made a few mistakes or said a few incorrect things or terms, forgive me for that, this is not my day job. I really hope it helps folk get more into processing as its not difficult or intimidating when you see a simple process with only a few things that are used. The key is good data to begin with and a good exposure value. Today's data came from a 100mm F10 achromatic refractor and an ASI290MM camera with an HA filter. I used FireCapture to acquire the data with a defocused flat frame. No gamma is used. I target anywhere from 65% to 72% histogram fill. That's it! The processing is fast and simple. I have a few presets that I use, but they are all defaults in Photoshop. A lot of the numbers I use for parameters are based on image scale, so keep that in mind, experiment with your own values. The only preset I use that is not a default is my coloring scheme. I color with levels in Photoshop, and my values are Red: 1.6, Green 0.8, Blue 0.2 (these are mid-point values). Processing Tutorial Video (18 minutes): https://youtu.be/RJvJEoVS0oU RAW (.TIF) files available here to practice on (the same images you will see below as RAW TIFs): https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zjeoux7YPZpGjlRGtX6fH7CH2PhB-dzv Video for Acquisition, Focus, Flat Calibration and Exposure (20 minutes): (Please let me know if any links do not work) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Results from today using this work flow method. Colored: B&W: SSM data (sampled during 1.5~2 arc-second seeing conditions): Equipment for today: 100mm F10 Frac (Omni XLT 120mm F8.3 masked to 4") Baader Red CCD-IR Block Filter (ERF) PST etalon + BF10mm ASI290MM SSM (for fun, no automation) Very best,
Hi, When you for the first time setup an off-axis adapter it can be confusing, at least it was for me. I have written down a tutorial that maybe can be of some help: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/tutorials/tutorial-setup-off-axis-adapter/01-tutorial-setup-off-axis-adapter.html I will edit and do some complement in the text later. A question to all you that already have an off-axis adapter, what make and model do you have ? Are you satisfaid with it ? /Lars
A lot of people have asked me about the iso setting and what is going on inside the DSLR camera. I have tried to do a simple tutorial about this on my homepage: http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/tutorials/tutorial-iso-dslr/tutorial-iso-dslr.html Now when DSLR cameras get better and better it's not that big advantages to use high iso setting. On earlier high noise readout cameras you could raise the signal above the readoutnoise by using a high iso setting (but depends on the camera if the amplifier was good enough), but in the same time you lower the dynamic range. With a better new camera you can lower the iso setting and stretch the data in your imageprocessing software and still have the same (or almost) low signal details. And with that get a higher dynamic range (don't saturate or clip the high levels). With my new Canon 6D I normally use iso800 but also iso 400. Modern Nikon cameras with Sony sensors are even better. Normally you can read about isoless cameras, that's the ones that can take advantage of lover iso setting. Depends on the object what to prefer. One important thing to know, the iso setting doesn't change how many photos the camera detect, just how the camera read out the sensor. Hope I clearify and not confuse with my tutorial. /Lars
Hello, I’m strongly interested in getting Mel’s (Astro Baby’s) tutorial for disassembling/fixing/reassembling the SkyWatcher AZ-EQ6 mount from Synta. I know it should be somewhere in East Midlands Stargazers website, but it seems to be unreachable. Maybe she also posted something like that in Stargazers Lounge. Could someone give me please some help to find it out or to contact Mel in order to ask her for it directly? I'm also looking for contacts with Scott Cunnington, author of a tutorial on the same topic I succeded in finding, with whom I would like to discuss some details of the proecedure. Thank you very much. Greetings, cesco
I've been asked on a number of occasions, how I managed to do planet astrophotography with a manual Dobsonian telescope. So I have created a tutorial, to help fellow owners create a worthy image. I hope it makes sense and you find it useful. Dob AP Tutorial.pdf