pete_l

It doesn't matter! It is a hobby, no more. Neither is it a competition. No one I have met has ever claimed to be taking amateur images of the Orion Nebula to push the boundaries of science If the end result pleases you then it has achieved its goal. If it doesn't please, then there is always room to learn more about processing and what _raw_ material makes for good end products. The only suggestion I would make is to preserve all your unprocessed data. That way if you do find you like one form or another better, or just want to experiment on the few nights when the skies aren't clear, then you have everything you need to go back to step #1.

I like GX16 "aviation" connectors. They come in a range of pin numbers, from 2-way up to (I think) 10 way. They have a lockable connection, metal bodies and are somewhat more weatherproof. In addition, you cannot connect them the wrong way round as they are keyed. And the area of the pins in contact with the socket is greater, so you get lower voltage drops when pulling high currents.

I think the weak link will be the cigar connector. Even if the voltage drop across that is acceptable at first, the "sharp end" on the connector is rounded, so only a small area makes contact. In addition the metal used is not generally very good - especially in the socket. It can easily corrode over time and is difficult to scrape clean. If you have the option, I'd suggest replacing the cigar plug+socket with something a little more sturdy and weatherproof. Preferably with soldered connections.

In that case I wouldn't worry. Everyone gains experience over time provided they keep practicing So the next session will be better and so on.

One comment about the original image. The stars seem to be larger than the noise pixels. They also appear redder at the top and bluer at the bottom. Is this a focus issue - it doesn't look like it would need much of an adjustment, or maybe an optical one? Depending on where that cropped example was in the overalll image - centre, corner, etc. it could be that getting the star size smaller would make them brighter, so the signal (the stars) to noise (the background) ratio would automatically improve.

Which brings up the next question: how will retailers get through the "lean times" when they can't sell anything because they haven't got anything to sell?

I think it has more to do with disruption caused by Covid. Even some USA suppliers are quoting out of stock on popular products. I have also been trying to get a new inkjet printer since my old one died (built-in obsolescence). With so many people working at home they can't be had for love nor money, either. I think the "shipping" delays are largely fixed. I've been getting packages from Aliexpress arriving in 2 weeks, whereas during the spring / summer it could be 2 months.

Samir Kharusi wrote what is probably the best treatment of the subject. Link

Even that has a standard domestic "kettle socket" supplying it with mains power. So it isn't rated for outside use.

Well, my meteor monitor (the tin-can cam 'cos it's built into a tin can) started at 9 p.m. local time and scored a hit three minutes later. However after ah hour that remains the only one ;( I offer this for your consideration. Snapped through high clouds in my Andalucian skies North is up, Taurus to the left, Cassiopeia top/mid

Is it just that the contrast setting of the hand controller display has gone down to zero?

Have you got a weatherproof cover for the mount?

You should do at least one dry run. Experiment with different ISO settings and exposure times. Remember that while dim stars show up better on longer exposures, that doesn't work for meteors. They are literally gone in a flash! Check that the battery in your camera will last long enough. Taking continuous images drains the battery quickly. Another thing, make sure you have a large enough card in your camera. My set up (using a Raspberry Pi) takes over 3,000 images in a night. Not only does that need a lot of storage, but it's a pain to have to inspect each one for meteors.

black coloured hot melt glue

If this is to be used for visual work, be aware of the battering that the grass will take. As you stand on a patch or walk around, following observing objects, the lawn will be subject to wear. You could end up with a circular bare patch that would take some explaining. 😬

People generally promote the equipment they have bought. So if a person has purchased (not been given free for review) a mono camera, they will tell you how great that is. If they invested in a colour camera, they will do the same. It they got it for review (i.e. advertising) purposes then it will be "glowing" no matter what it is While there are lots of people who can give you chapter and verse on the theory of why one sort is better than another, the only real test that is worth anything is to look at images. Look at examples (e.g. on Astrobin) and see if you can tell - without looking at the description - which RGB images were taken with a colour camera and which with a mono + filters. Then make up your own mind, based on the evidence you have seen for yourself.

I haven't ever seen a powerline adapter that works with 12 Volts. All the ones I use plug into 230V mains. And on that point, personally I'd run a higher voltage (e.g.24V) to the power board and then step it down to 13.8V to power the mount. That way you avoid voltage drops due to the distance, which can lead to unreliable operation.

Yes. A dark sky beats any telescope, camera, accessory or mount in terms of the "equipment" that makes the most difference to the enjoyment and reach of the hobby. Welcome back!

A GX10, perchance?

The connector on an EQ6R is a fairly common GX12 2-pin connector.

My HEQ5 used to do this. When I first bought it I was running it off a switched mode power supply. The mount worked fine when I controlled it through the hand controller. However when I connected it to a laptop or computer I would get these same sort of EQMod comm errors. Pulling the SMPS out and using a 12V lead-acid battery to power the mount cured the problem 100%. Since then I have used a "linear" power supply. It's been trouble free for 6+ years. Same computer, same power cables, same serial port cable, no software changes at all (apart from forced updates)

Since it is only on that one image, the pragmatic approach is simply to photoshop it out and not worry about it!

That's a good point. Since the CEM70 is only the mount head, without a tripod or pier, any review about the performance won't be about the mount itself. It has to be for the combination of mount + extra-cost tripod.

Readily available from Bitsbox As for circlips I would try Farnell and if they can't supply, then Aliexpress.

There are two things I am sure of WRT this discussion. First is that nobody could inspect three images each of the same subject, taken under identical conditions and accurately say which image was from which camera. Second, I am even more sure that nobody would ever run such a test ;( Yer pays yer money and makes yer choice! Everyone will give reasons why their purchasing decision was better than others who chose differently. It would take an individual of exceptional character to admit that they spent several £ thousand on a camera and that it is unsatisfactory. Not faulty, simply inferior. Although I am (thirdly! ) sure that happens very often. Just look at what gets put up for sale s/h.