mbalkham

I have a tilt adjustment on the ZWO ASI 071MC Pro so hoping that would work if I need more adjustment. My optical chain is Paracorr>ZWO OAG>ZWO filter drawer>Camera which I think gives me the correct back focus. I'm toying with removing the OAG since I'm running 10mins unguided these days.

I'm having a bit of a tilt issue myself at the moment with the Baader steeltrack and Teleview Paracorr combination. Looks like I might need the clicklock.

I think you might be right. I remeasured the spacing and it looks like my 4 holes are not equally spaced around the circumference (not by much). I was not far off centre but obviously not close enough and that was pulling vanes offline a little. I've filled the holes and will redrill tomorrow above the last lot. Will triple check all the measurements and accuracy of the pilot holes before redrilling. I think I'm parallel to the primary. I'll check again. Will also check the focuser alignment again.

So testing tonight produced a funny set of diffraction spikes. Does this mean I haven't managed to get it square? or is this some other issue (don't think it is collimation or focus but could be tilt, focuser tube alignment, something else?). Also screenshot of ASTAP CCD Inspector for same image.

I have another post on this specific question (Spider upgrade - orientation of vanes - Discussions - Scopes / Whole setups - Stargazers Lounge). I didn't get a definitive answer on that thread nor from the manufacturer of the new spider. General wisdom was that it wouldn't make a difference optically, but my thinking was about ease of collimation. I wanted adjustment towards/away from the focuser with one screw and then left to right with the other two. I think this means easier adjustment as you don't adjust in more than one plane when you make an adjustment. I also think it will help suppor

Hi all, Anyone tried to fill holes in a carbon fibre tube? More cosmetic than structural (see pic). Also want to stop light for darks. Currently using black pvc tape! Looking for tips/ tricks. Current thinking is thickened epoxy with black pigment (or perhaps graphite?). Something like this https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/adding-pigments-to-west-system-epoxy/ Prob also paint over inside with black acrylic paint. Thanks in advance Matt

I went with changing the orientation. Not collimated yet but I'm sure it will be easier if I'm the same plane. Looks and feels much stiffer which must be good. Hopefully test it this weekend.

In the new one I'm not sure if 45 degree rotation works either because of the offset of the two thumbscrews? Will wait to see when it arrives! I've also reached out to TS Optics for advice.

In the current arrangement, thumbscrews aren't parallel to the vanes

Hi all, I'm upgrading my spider vanes to the TS Optics double carbon spider (Teleskop-Express: TS-Optics Carbon Double-Spider for 295-310 mm inside tube diameter (teleskop-express.de)). The aim here is to be a bit stiffer and hopefully hold collimation better plus to tighten my diffraction spikes. I will also us copper foil on the vanes for the secondary heater rather than wires. I've been trying to find advice on the orientation of the vanes relative to the focuser. Everything I see online points to one of the vanes being inline with the centerre of the focuser. However on my OOUK C

Thanks for the detailed response. I've got guiding down to 0.5-0.6"RMS typically which I'm happy with (as my main image scale is 0.74"). I've switched to using multistar guiding in kstars and OAG. I'll try phd2 again at some point just for the log and analysis. I have found OAG helps in good conditions but I seem to be more wind effected now.

My maths is good (or at least the predicted outcome is the same!). I managed to find a small break in the cloud and confirm there is no obstruction in this configuration.

Anyone know if the polemaster will work in this location? It did on the top of the losmandy plate (maybe 100mm further from axis) but I wonder if my tube will obscure the view? I read a field of view of 11x8 degrees. My polemaster is 450mm from the end of the tube and 50mm above the tube. If my math is right then a 4° angle at 450mm is 31mm so the polemaster shouldn't be obstructed? Proof will be in the test next clear night but interested to hear what people think.

Anyone got there hands on these filters? Can you recommend which of the NB filters suit which application? Thinking I want NB1, NB2 or NB3 for emission nebula from bortle 5 backyard. This is going in my secondary imaging setup piggybacked on my newt which currently comprises EOS R with various lenses. Ideally looking for something similar to duoband I use on the primary rig with ASI071. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p11557_IDAS-NB2-Dual-Band-Nebula-Filter-with-Drop-In-Filter-Insert-for-Canon-EOS-R-Mount-Adapter.html

No good with heat or an overnight in Isoprop. Will pickup some acetone today and try that.