Stuart1971

Hi Scotty, I agree it looks very good, and I was tempted by the 103mm version that came out a while back, there is a thread in here about that one, it’s a great price even with both the reducer / flattener, and the flattener, I had the 120 esprit very briefly, but due to damage from mishandling at the dealers on the scope it went back, and there were no more in stock, so went for the esprit 100 with full Zygo check from RVO, they will run that check on any scope you buy from them, (or any scope you want to take to them, at a cost of course) which I think is well worth the extra cost involved for piece of mind…you know you are getting a well configured scope. look forward to hearing about whichever scope you go for…👍🏻

I have gone through this a couple of times and I get exactly where you are coming from, what worked for me was to make it a winter only hobby, I image from when the clocks go back to about the end of April, then I have other hobbies, mainly mountain biking that take over for the summer and I don’t touch my Astro kit, then by the time the late autumn / winter gets here, I am ready to get stuck in again….

Darks are not just for amp glow, they are there to sort other things too, like hot pixels, walking noise to some extent, and dark noise, again to some extent, these issues can also be mostly sorted by dithering, but I find it much much easier just to use darks than dither…

Beautiful, as we come to expect from you now Adam….👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

It should not take anywhere near that long to cool, a few mins max…I would leave it about 5 mins to be sure That camera should have a control box that you can set the cooler power on….?

Means, “Let the buyer beware”

Correct…

I was quite surprised at the no filter at all images, I would have expected them to have a red / pink hue to them, as my modified DSLR does.. 🤔

Yes, your title was correct…👍🏻

This was the title on the listing.. SONY a5000 FULL SPECTRUM/ IR CONVERTED CAMERA BODY BLACK 2710A

I think it’s because the seller put “IR conversion” and “full spectrum” in the title..

Just looked at the advert again, and they are just cameras with all filters removed, no other filters added, as he says you can use them for normal daytime photography with the addition of a UV / IR filter, that would not be the case if it had been modded with a filter than only allows IR light through…

Maybe he had used the wrong terminology in the advert, and has he added an IR pass filter, I doubt it for that cost, it will just have no filters now in front of the sensor…that’s my assumption anyway…🤔

With a Full spectrum mod, the camera is basically the same as a dedicated uncooled Astro camera…👍🏻

Yea I guess I was referring to the older canon conversions…👍🏻

Yes they can…

DSLR cameras have 2 filters in them and both cut the UV / IR, if only 1 of these filters is removed, (this is the common DSLR astro mod) the other is left in place as UV / IR cut is needed, the one that is removed also cuts into the Ha hence why it is removed. Now if you remove both of the filters, then this is the “Full spectrum mod’, (so all light will pass to the sensor) which many people do, then you need an UV / IR cut filter of your own in the imaging train for OSC imaging…

Yes, if you take 2 min lights at, say -10 temp, then you need the same with darks about 40 of them should be fine…to create a master dark, you can do the darks in the daytime, as you can set the temp on your camera, and build a library of them for different exposure times, and then you can use for the while season. those are good filters if you want narrowband, well the L-Extreme is, don’t bother with the L-Enhance, to do just normal RGB colour, then the Optolong L-Pro light pollution filter is very good and I use it with my OSC camera.

Maybe start with 2-3 mins for broadband and 4-5 mins for narrowband, now there are no rules about this, but the more data the better, you could go just 2 mins for all objects with all filters, and take many more subs… As for the rest, Darks have to match the lights perfectly, same exposure time AND temperature… Flats around 3 seconds and then take Dark flats at 3 seconds too, and no need for bias with these newer CMOS cameras, the bias is in the dark flats anyway….👍🏻

That’s good to know….👍🏻

So you dont get this option ( add to Home Screen) when you click the page up arrow in right top corner

The noise levels in the images are way too high, the banding is one thing which can be dealt with, but the noise is just too much and drowning the image, you need to lower the gain, or in your case the ISO if it’s a DSLR, also much more data is needed to sort the noise, much of the banding issue comes from walking noise…which could be sorted by dithering while imaging…

Hmmmm, it’s not, it is exactly that, a shortcut to a webpage, or a browser shortcut which can be done on any device or computer…but I am sure many people did not realise, and so your post was very useful to those people, so no need to apologise…👍🏻

None of this is anything new, on Apple you can do it for most websites, just like you can on a desktop computer….and it’s probably the same on android, but never owned anything other than Apple….it’s certainly not an app…

If that is tilt, then it’s extremely bad, worse than I have ever seen…I would say that is collimation, .check out the thread of correcting tilt in the daytime with a simple laser jig… https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/382323-chip-tilt-test-jig/