Stuart1971

Yes me too, always -10..👍🏻

Try the M6 you have, by hand, if it’s an imperial hole it will go in about 1.5 turns then stop…and you will know….👍🏻

Ok, so in theory his should have been better, maybe his cooler is not working….🤔

Yea it does, and I agree with you, he does seem to have a lot more hot pixels, I assume you both had same temps on the frames…? As that is what will make the difference…

Took me a while to get the text nice and neat in the top left corner, as it was all overlapping…. And the image flipped to correct orientation…getting there slowly…

Looks good, i have updated mine to the new version of the software as it was quite old what I was using, and TBH I don’t find the images as good, either very blue of very green, I have it running now in daytime and looks ok, but at night was not good at all, and it used to be great… my focus is a bit off to ATM also how do you get it to display the full year of 2023 as mine only displays 23, see image below..

Those are not darks he has posted but bias frames, and if blown up to the point of the pixels looking square then all out frames would look like that…yours look the same as mine…

They are not darks at that short exposure, they are bias frames….and look perefectly normal, unless of course you blow them up to the sizeyou have… Dark Frames should be the same length as the light exposures you are going to use, 0.5 is not a dark at all but a bias frame… You are worrying over nothing here…

With some work on the mount, you should get 0.5 RMS easily with the mount you have….maybe some tweaking on the bear engagement, and if you don’t have already the belt mod would be good….👍🏻

It was me who said that SM was better than the ASIair, and I do believe that, but it’s my opinion, and the fact it caters for all cameras is part of that opinion, and yes SM was around using indi long long before ZWO “borrowed” the idea….but I think part of the license for them to be able to use the open source software was to lock it to there kit only. If they could allow it to work on all cameras, they surely would as it would make them a fortune….shame they could not build there own from scratch…

AFAIK, SM does work on the ASIair, I had an ASIair for a short while to evaluate and ditched it pretty quick and went back to SM, I now use QHY cameras… Not sure on the power port issue as I have always used a Pegasus UPB so it’s never something I have needed. Yes SM does rely on ekos, PhD2 plate solving etc, you are correct there… The app is much further down the line that that statement makes out, I think that has been there a long time, as I saw that 2 years ago…. The only issue i has with SM on a PI mounted on my rig, was over VNC at 4k resolution it could be laggy, but that where the app then comes in, if it has been as stable as windows Remote Desktop is, I would have stuck at using it that way, and running it all from the RPI on the mount… I don’t like ASIair because of the lock in with ASI kit, if it worked with other cameras great, but they can’t do that as I believe it’s part of the license or it will encroach on SM customers….and that was the deal I believe….and rightly so, or Jasem would be out of business….as he can’t compete with ZWO…yet… Although since the 2 guys who owned ZWO split, I think they’re products have suffered a bit, as it was the main man who left and founded Player one Astronomy….

I have always been in close contact with Jasem the indi / Stellarmate developer and have had many convos on others using indilib, but it’s not for discussing here… There mobile app is just a much better version of ASIair app, it’s nothing to do with VNC, it runs on an android or Apple tablet just like the ASIair does, it is a complete alternative and does not rely on any other software other than the indi drivers….

They have, as I said Stellarmate and it’s App, it is better and runs all cameras, this is where the ASIair came from, they basically “borrowed” the open source software that the Stellarmate developer built, and used it for there own kit…so there is a very viable alternative…

Yes, the same Thomas software you are using… I did have issues at the start, and had to tweak a few things, it creates the time lapse and the star trails image ok, but if I turn the keogram on too it can give me issues…

I would go with Stellarmate and the raspberry PI, and the Stellarmate app, which is basically the same as ASIair, but far cheaper and works with all cameras…. The ASIair uses the same indilib driver system as SM, in fact SM was around long before the ASIair…

Great write up. ‘I built one with the V2 HQ camera a while ago and has worked extremely well with the 3D printed enclosure, and the PI zero 2

Hmmm, the thing is you probably get even better results with a lot more shorter subs of 5 min or even 3 mins, with that size scope, and if you have to lose any subs, better to lose a 3 mins sub that a 10 min one…these modern CMOS cameras, only really need enough exposure time to swamp the read noise of the camera, any more is just not worth it, so in Your case 3 mins should be enough… Its worth trying…👍🏻

Lovely image 👏🏻👏🏻 But why such long subs with that camera, after about 5 mins you are just adding more noise and LP….

Thanks very much for that, much appreciated, yes I will need to find out which way the flattener needs to go, as for tilt I have a CTU in the imaging train, 18.2% curvature seems high, or is it not…??

What does that tell me, as I am not to sure here….looks nice and central…🤔🤔

Yes tried that, but was also wanting curvature info too…I am not sure ASTAP does that, although it does say tilt and curvature in the text about ASTAP so maybe there is a measurement in there that can help with this…do you know…??

Just wondered if anyone here has a fully licensed copy of CCD inspector and would run an image through for me and PM me the results…. I had an evaluation copy last year, but ran out now and can’t have another 30 day one apparently…and too expensive to buy ATM this is the fits like link, in my Google drive, if anyone can help https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KNkMIjkpMsyFgFgmxPr8o9pi7CX0rx-F/view?usp=drivesdk Thanks in Advance…

That’s a very interesting way of adjusting for tilt, using flat frames…so can I ask, the first image you show with the two dark corners in the upper half of the image, does that indicate the tilt, and then the second image was after it was corrected….? ‘I ask because my images come out with two darker corners on one side while the rest of the image is fairly uniform bright….similar to yours

I have seen other ASTAP image analysis like these with pretty much perfect squares, so wondered if the figures relate to the tilt and the “shape” of the “square” was curvature due to incorrect backspacing…🤔🤔

Hello all, just been rechecking my new set up for tilt, and pretty happy with it now, the images look pretty good, until you pixel peep then I am not sure whether I have the flattener backspacing spot on, so after running one of the raw images through ASTAP I get this, my question as the tilt is minimal, but the sides of the square are slightly pointed inwards, does this indicate flattener distance not correct ?? If so in which direction….?? thanks in advance