Stuart1971

Affordable to who….😂😂😂

Very true, and I don’t have the answer, but what benefit to 99.9999% of the people on this earth, is getting a big rocket into space going to have, absolutely none whatsoever, an absolute pointless task, but he has the money to waste…at least his starlink venture was helping many people, as much as it’s a pain for us astrophotographers….but this latest stuff, is a case of “Boys and there toys”

Just my twopeneth, but Instead of wasting all this money trying to get big chunks of pointless metal into space, maybe they should spend there money and make the world a better place first….then after that who knows….just a thought….👍🏻

Yes, try and work out where the actual shoulder of the reducer is and yes it will be a couple of MM inside the T adapter….👍🏻

You can see (or certainly used to be able to) the stars during the routine as long as you are using the full screen, but many people use a region of interest for auto focus and this does then not show the stars…but in saying that it’s changes a lot recently with many updates so it could have changed….it’s been a while since I have used…

Click the button top right of screen to show annotations…

Ok, so with the 6.3 reducer, the back focus should be approx 107mm and the measurement should be taken from the base of the rear threads on the back of the reducer, as for the 3.3 the measurement should be taken from the same place, but the back focus distance is much shorter, there is a spacer set than comes with this reducer, which gives the exact correct back focus… position A in your drawing is correct to measure to 👍🏻

Turn the sleep option off….👍🏻

I just installed ASCOM on a new Mele 3Q win 11 mini PC yesterday and it went straight on, it never even mentioned .net during the install….and all my ASCOM drivers work fine…

Also when you roll it like you say, the camera and the place where the dot is reflected needs to be absolutely perfectly parallel with each other….tightening the three bolts down all the way is the easiest for you situation, as you do have somewhere to go, as there are three screws so you can always adjust out to any plane, you do not need to be able to adjust inwards at all, as you move the opposite screw out, that does the same thing…..simples….👍🏻

Yes, that would work to get your tilt plate level, but if the sensor is not level in the camera then it won’t help, but you also could have just tightened the three screws right up and you would have had the same result…. The idea I did the video about was actually an idea @ollypenrice showed in a thread on here, and is perfect for cameras with a sensor fitted which is not perpendicular to the front of the camera….👍🏻

Hi, i use the PI zero 2, with HQ camera, and with a good size swap file it seems to work pretty well, mine produces a star trails image and a Timelapse every day when connected…but I had to lower the resolution down slightly..👍🏻

Exactly, hence my comment, wait till you have some good videos with content well worth watching, before you start to advertise yourself. If you promote yourself too soon, as has been done here, then the negative comments start to come in, and you are on the back foot right away, and putting yourself under pressure to produce more, and that’s not what you want….I think the OP jumped the gun a bit saying that there was good stuff to come, now it needs to come very very quickly….

Probably best to wait until there is some valuable resources on the channel before it is mentioned….👍🏻

You loosen the bolt and tighten or loosen the grub screw, and then retighten the bolt…👍🏻

Those star shapes show you need more spacing between the sensor and flattener….and you are not quite in focus….

yes, if that screws directly onto the reducer then from the corner edge of the reducer, as every mm will make a difference….

Yes, the glass does stick out a bit more, but the shoulder at the base of the threads is at the back of the first lens, which is where the measurement should be taken from, as this is a reducer and a flattener in one, with two sets of lenses, so the measurements is taken after the reducing lens but before the flattening lens…HTH the red line is where you should measure from

First of all do you have the correct spacing or is it more than you think as these reducers in the f6.3 version have a 107mm backspace, secondly your red line is correct, it should be measured from the shoulder of the reducer assembly, as the bottom of the rear threads… you should be including any space in the backspacing measurement, that is from the sensor to the shoulder of the reducer, any space in between….

Lol, good luck in getting that mount back anytime soon…..best to drive to him and collect it….not a service I would ever use….good luck…👍🏻

That’s not an easy question to answer, I have done mine on the DEC axis, but you have the newer model mount, and it’s a different procedure….🤔

Yes, the worm is too tight….

So the ASIair has its own driver for the mount then… and you don’t use EQMOD or anything like that….? If so then I can help, as I use the standard ASCOM drivers with mine if you are getting spikes in RA, that usually means balance or stiction of some sort….

So what driver is being used to control the mount….?

Oh, yes I have never used 12v, many mounts require at the very minimum 12v, my EQ8 works from 11v up to 15v, and the higher the better, most EQ6 mounts will run perfectly fine on 13.8v, in fact many people say it’s a must…the Pegasus hub requires a minimum 13.8v too All my QHY268 cameras also use the 13.8v from the Pegasus power hub too, my understanding is that the cameras will take up to 15v too… i have approx 2.5m between the PSU and my mount, with the Pegasus hub at 2m and then 0.5m from that to the mount…. My PSU puts out approx 14.1v and it’s approx 13.8v at the Pegasus hub…