Stuart1971

Very much appreciated 😀

That looks absolutely superb, and in black if possible please.... Send me cost and payment details via messages....and very much appreciated in the time you have spent on this, it would take me weeks to even get that CAD drawing done on a PC... 😮

Yes, I have the correct bolts as I use them in the other end, for connecting to the Losmandy plate, so please all, I do no what size bolts they are.... 👍😀

Wow, that looks superb...thanks... The holes go in approx 12mm Into the rings, and as long as the holes in the handle can take 1/4” bolt then all will be fine...obviously the more material between the bolt head and the scope ring the better / stronger, and I have 1/4” and M6 Allen bolts of all sizes and lengths....

Yes am in the UK.. 👍

12mm into the ring, but I have a huge range of different length M6 bolts, from 5mm to 60mm length, so it does not matter how much of the bolt would be in the handle as long as it would be strong enough....also I can cut them to length anyway...

Yes that is exactly what I mean, but they don’t do one with 126mm fastening centres, just 120mm..

I want it attached to both rings so no chance of too much strain on one ring alone...

Takahashi fsq85 with parallax tube rings, and they are M6 thread...just for carrying and fixed to both rings which as said before have centres of 126mm

Hello, I am not an owner of a 3D printer and even if I was I don’t think I would be very good ate using the software needed to design things... ☹️ But I am wanting a bridge type handle in black, for the top of my scope to fit between the two tube rings, with a 126mm M6 bolt hole centres....to fasten to rings... Would anybody be able to print me one, I am more than happy to pay, if anybody is willing and able please PM me Thanks for looking.... 👍

All these DIY power strips and devices will do the job, are superb and cheap to make....but they lack PC control, so if you need that then you cant beat the Pegasus range.... but you will pay a premium for it...😀

Well, you can connect to a PC and set it all up, and from then on you can use without a PC....but all of the Pegasus units are meant to be used via PC really.. 👍

This is what I now use...the Pegasus UPB V2 superb.. https://pegasusastro.com/products/ultimate-powerbox-v2/

I guess I am just lucky that it works fine with all my kit... 👍

Nothing at all wrong with a PI4 it runs the latest Raspbian based Stellarmate 1.5.1 OS perfectly...runs all night with no glitches.... 👍

So if it’s 25 degrees indoors and you can set to -20 that’s 45 below ambient, what camera will go that low...that’s a huge drop.... 😮, mine will do 30 below ambient, so if it’s 20 degrees inside mine will go to -10... So I guess it’s all to do with what the camera will go to below ambient..? Which should be in the camera specs.. correct..?

Hello, I am new here and have a question... I have always done my darks on the same night as images, but I read so many people build a library of them at different lengths... So when you set the temp on an imaging camera at say -10 that means 10 degrees below ambient, so if 10 degrees outside, the it would be zero.... But if taking them inside to build a library, then setting the camera at -10 with an inside temp of say 20 degrees will only give a camera temp of 10 degrees which would not match.... So assuming all that makes sense how are these dark libraries achieved ..? And how do people get matching temps with images and darks with all the above being said....? Thanks Stuart