Stuart1971

Well I do know that Stellarmate will not yet run on the RPI5.., so maybe there is a reason why Kstars and Ekos won’t…🤔

Well I was comparing to others made and sold by Askar not other manufactures…so do you think they charge way to much for there others in the Askar livery…?

I am totally jealous…☹️

Subjective I guess, and how much you really care and even bother to look into the corners stars like some pixel peepers do…at full size on a 20” monitor they will all look superb..unfortunately I have to look, my OCD insists on it….😂😂

Yes, I have watched that video where the guy compares 4 refractors for imaging, the Askar 103 being one of them, and it looked great until the reducers were added, then even with APS-c size sensors, the stars were not great in the corners…but with just the flattener, looked good…

Can someone explain why these scopes are so reasonably priced, compared to other comparable triplets, especially other triplets in the Askar range such as the PHQ versions, as in my mind you get what you pay for with a scope and these must be a lot cheaper for a reason….or no one would ever buy there higher priced scopes, so where is the compromise here…?? sorry to be a cinic…

Where is is…? EDIT: Ah, ok I see it Above, yea it looks loads better….👍🏻

Thanks, but I guess I went a bit off topic…😂

We had the London Blue cobble pattern…

If that printed concrete is the same as ours then it’s bonded with fibres too, which makes it even stronger, there is no problem at all bolting a pier to that, it’s not going anywhere….

Well, there is absolutely no harm in trying…and yes it does look that way, that is needs more backspace…👍🏻

What it looks like to me, is that the flattener is introducing tilt the more you move it out, which is skewing the figures somewhat…the tilt diagram is altering quite a bit over the images, when the stars all elongate towards the middle it means you need to move the flattener further away from the sensor…but if you have tilt this can really confuse things, so maybe the threaded flattener, the more you screw it out is sagging and causing tilt..

It’s a beautiful image, but not sure what’s happened to the stars….. any ideas…it’s all over the image

Got mine up and running tonight, should have Timelapse tomorrow to share…but need a new lens, the only stars that are round are in the centre, all others are awful shapes, any ideas please for a new decent lens…?? I may need to mess with gain and exposure settings too, tried auto but was just going for the longest I set it at, and lowered the gain, but stars were more trailed so west back to manual…

Lovely looking scope and great spec, but how ridiculous to have to remove the camera to adjust for tilt, I really don’t understand why manufactures do this, it makes having the built tilt adjuster a waste of time..as removing and re fitting the camera would just introduce more tilt…why not have a design the the Gerd Neumann CTU with adjuster screws around the outer edge… Almost as bad as QHY 268m camera with tilt adjuster built into the front of there mono cameras, then you add there filter wheel which bolts to the front of the camera and completely covers the tilt adjuster…🤯

Sorry 150 degree…..😂

Yes I cut the hole and designed 3D printed an adapter as shown in post above, it has an 10mm upstand inside the dome to stop any moisture that may get under the lip of the dome getting into places it shouldn’t…so there is no sealant under the dome lip so it can easily be removed if needed….

Ok, new version 2 AllSky camera built and up and running, 125mm square x 75mm deep box, 3.5” dome, raspberry PI HQ camera and 150 degree view lens, raspberry PI4 4gb and 12v dew heater ring…

An old thread I know, but what actual backspacing did you end up with from sensor to the flattener as you say you had to alter from the original 55mm..just curious…

Ok well with altering the white balance settings in the allsky software just for daytime, I can get a perfect looking daytime image, and can leave on auto for nightime and get the extra Ha in the nightime images, so all good…well worth changing the filter I think…

Ok, so a couple of questions, on my RPI HQ camera there is a UV/IR cut filter that has been badly pitted from the sun over the last two years, so I removed it and but a new UV/IR cut filter in it’s place, but I noticed that the one I removed was a blueish glass where the one I put in was almost clear like Astro UV/IR cut filter are..and now the daytime images are very red, (see below) just like when you remove the filter on a DSLR camera during the normal Astro mod…so I guess the filter I removed must have some Ha blocking too, and this enables a normal daytime white balance…would this be correct….?? In which case people who,use ASI colour cameras in there AllSky, what are there daytime images like..? Are they also reddish, or do those cameras also have daytime white Balance filtration (Ha blocking) built into the cover glass on those cameras, if so then they are not really optimised for night time Astro use…are they…🤔🤔 So I could go with this and have a better, more sensitive camera for nightime and loose the daytime AllSky side of it, as that’s what it’s really for anyway..🤔 Thoughts…

Sorry, I missed where the OP stated it was a mono 460…(oh he didn’t !! ) I assumed as he asked about getting a OSC and currently had the 460, and that the 460 was also OSC… my bad if it is a mono…as the OSC 533 would not be better than that….or would it….🤔🤔

No, you said the 571 was, I was just re iterating that, and adding the 533 into the mix of being better, maybe i was not clear with my grammar….🤔 plus you said “slightly” better and I stated “much” better….if you want to split hairs…

Hmmm, I would argue that both the IMX533 and 571 are much better than the 460 CCD camera…

Helicoil will work, but you will have to drill out to the next size up and tap, to fit that in anyway…👍🏻