Stuart1971

Just wondered if anyone here has a fully licensed copy of CCD inspector and would run an image through for me and PM me the results…. I had an evaluation copy last year, but ran out now and can’t have another 30 day one apparently…and too expensive to buy ATM this is the fits like link, in my Google drive, if anyone can help https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KNkMIjkpMsyFgFgmxPr8o9pi7CX0rx-F/view?usp=drivesdk Thanks in Advance…

That’s a very interesting way of adjusting for tilt, using flat frames…so can I ask, the first image you show with the two dark corners in the upper half of the image, does that indicate the tilt, and then the second image was after it was corrected….? ‘I ask because my images come out with two darker corners on one side while the rest of the image is fairly uniform bright….similar to yours

I have seen other ASTAP image analysis like these with pretty much perfect squares, so wondered if the figures relate to the tilt and the “shape” of the “square” was curvature due to incorrect backspacing…🤔🤔

Hello all, just been rechecking my new set up for tilt, and pretty happy with it now, the images look pretty good, until you pixel peep then I am not sure whether I have the flattener backspacing spot on, so after running one of the raw images through ASTAP I get this, my question as the tilt is minimal, but the sides of the square are slightly pointed inwards, does this indicate flattener distance not correct ?? If so in which direction….?? thanks in advance

I had a DIY steel wedge just like that for my old fork mounted SCT, 20 years ago and it was a pain to try and adjust on a cold night with spanner’s, it might work well for you but that system on a premium mount is very poor IMHO, the mount “deserves” a much better system, and it’s certainly a backward step compared to what the MK1 had, especially when you have to pay over £6k. JTW have now adopted the old system from the Mk1 mesu, on there new friction drive mounts at a couple of grand cheaper 👍🏻 I realise you have one and I don’t, but the system is identical to what I had….

Also try a USB 2 cable on the camera, as you don’t need USB 3 for any camera for deep sky long exposure work, it’s just overkill, and USB 2 is far more stable then 3…

OMG look at the gauge of that wire being used and the soldering job on the revere😮😮 that’s a disaster waiting to happen, even if it work ATM…good luck your gonna need it…. I’m out now stress levels too high..😂😂😂

I guess it’s a completely different issue for dome owners with the IR, mine is a roll open shed…so the IR is no issue…I had not thought of the reflection from inside the dome…🤔

I never had an issue with the IR lights on mine, I guess I am always imaging with the IR blocked anyway.👍🏻

I use a cheap pan and tilt camera from Amazon, behind my scope as it does have an IR option, £24 from Amazon and as it works with RTSP it links to NINA and gives me a constant live view, you can see the view here just in from the bottom right corner of NINA, using the RTSP plugin for NINA..

It can if you have a multimeter with an audible sound, as mine does, as you can set it on that and if it’s a circuit it will buzz…. EDIT, sorry I misread your reply, you already know this, its whether he has it connected correctly while powered up you are referring to, I was just saying to find which connector on the back is connected to the centre pin… sorry, ignore me..👍🏻

Me too, I’m out now as well, it’s pushing my stress levels reading his posts TBH….🤯

“I'm embarrassed to say that I bought the wrong primalucelab power cable.. I got the 8A version.. and the neq6 pro mount needs 2Aso it's not entirely sure that I did the dammsge by soldering alone. If I have been running the mount on 8A instead of 2A I guess this can be good for the board right?‘ Yet another electronic mistake….🙈 if a cable is rated at 8 Amps, it does not mean it puts out 8 amps, it means that you can use any electronic device that requires up to that amount, so you alway want higher rated cables than the devices you are powering, so if you mount needs 2 amps and your cable and power supply are rated higher, then that is perfect….the mount or any electrical device only draws the power it needs….so you HAVE NOT been running the mount on 8 amps at all, you have just been using a cable rated to carry 8 amps which is absolutely fine and good…the mount has been using the 2 amps it needed…. now if you had an item that required 8 amps and your cable was rated at 2 amps then you would have a real issue…😮😮 You really do not know enough at all to be messing with theses things, 😮😮

Ordered a new ASIair, 😮 that is an expensive way to test, when you could have just hooked up to another PC to test, that would have ruled out the ASIair, you must have an endless supply of money…😂😂

Looking at that I would suspect it’s the draw of the dew heaters, hence the intermittent issues, when they kick in they can take power from elsewhere and cause disconnects, can you not put those on a separate supply…?

So the next thing is to try the set up on a PC and not the ASIair to rule that out…👍🏻

Well done indeed…..👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

Turn the multimeter to the audible setting and put the two probes one on the centre pin, and then the other on the solder points until you get the buzzer sound then you have the connection / completed circuit and so the correct solder point….

The socket will be centre pin positive…so use your multimeter to see which solder point goes to the centre pin…

Of what exactly…?

Appologies if you thought I was rude, it wasn’t meant that way, I was just blunt…👍🏻 positive should be the centre pin of the socket and the plug will also be centre positive…

I am totally at a loss, as to how you managed to do all this soldering, and now only just asking which the + and - are on the board, surely that should have been a question to ask before you started….🤔🤔 or maybe it’s just me…. also, in case this was one of the things you did not understand, “well tinned’ means that you have solder on both the end of the cable you are soldering, and also on the spot on the board to solder too, as you don’t want to have to add more solder while heating the joint, this can cause other bits to overheat, or at least in my experience…so solder on both, then touch the cable to the board and heat both until they flow, then remove iron. But I am sure other more experienced people will have better ways of explaining this…

Well you are very lucky then…as it is a very well spoken about issue on many forums…👍🏻

I agree, it only looks half the size of the Esprit 120, that was big for a 120mm scope, on the picture of the guy holding this on the advert it looks really small in comparison…

Get a new board, and use it as it comes, throw the soldering iron in the garbage…👍🏻 if you are really bothered about the power cable pulling out, just change the input power connecter for a screw on type, only 2 wires to solder and well away from the main board….