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About Mognet

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    Star Forming

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  1. Astroboot have several handsets for sale at the moment, including a V4
  2. Gives me ideas on what I could do with an old pair of Prinz binoculars I've got sitting around. Might be worth experimenting with I've also been thinking today on getting a cheap 130/900 mirror set from Astroboot and building a 3D printed Serrurier truss scope and mount, possibly with a dual speed Crayford focuser. Shouldn't be too difficult. Just contemplating if/how I can make it fold flat
  3. Lengths of elastic are probably an optional extra ?
  4. I suspect the staircase is a spiral round the inside of the building. Otherwise there's no way to get to the scope. Can't see any way of getting into the dome though, or to get the scope up to that level
  5. Try this link https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-47953005
  6. I have a SynScan alt-az and I power it with a jump starter from Halfords. With mine there was a lead supplied that fitted the mount perfectly, including the correct polarity for the lead
  7. Hi Neo, It sounds like you have a very similar setup to mine. I have a D3100 and a D3400 with kit lenses, the Nikkor 35mm 1.8G and a Tamron 70-300 zoom. You should be able to use an intervalometer with your D3200. I picked up a cheap one from Amazon for £25 a couple of years ago and found it very handy. If you want to control your camera from a laptop instead, then DigiCamControl will handle things. My preference is for the 35mm prime. It's only good for widefield, but it does better at collecting light compared to the others and gives sharp stars when stopped down to around 2.5 to 2.8. That said, it does suffer with some pincushion distortion which isn't usually noticable in normal photography, but does show with astrophotography and stacking. Sequator is probably the easiest stacking software for beginners, and it does have an option to correct the distortion. It's not quite as simple as just putting a camera on a tripod and pushing some buttons, but if you are prepared to accept the limitations and you're happy with experimenting a bit then it can be done, and it's a good inexpensive introduction while you decide if astrophotography is for you As an example of what can be done with that setup, this is Orion and the Rosette Nebula taken on a tripod. It's 60 subs of 9 seconds each with the D3100 and 35mm prime, at ISO1600 f2.8. Stacking was in Sequator and post processing in GIMP. I have some issues with light pollution at home, and there were a few subs with clouds in, so the edges are a bit messy. The Horsehead Nebula and Barnards Loop are just about visible, but the entry level Nikons are not capable of picking up the same range of wavelengths as the dedicated astrophotography cameras.
  8. I'm wondering about the zero visibility thing too. It's unlikely that they will be seen through clouds or fog. Maybe they haven't thought this through properly
  9. A Russian startup is proposing illuminated advertising displays in orbit https://startrocket.me/ They plan to use cubesats, so not only adding to the light pollution, but space junk too
  10. The mobile version of Stellarium is a fork of the desktop version written by Guillaume Chéraeu, who is the brother to Stellarium project founder and coordinator Fabien Chéreau. The wikipedia entry for Stellarium says that there is a technology exchange between the two projects and there is a very brief mention of it on the Noctua Software page for Stellarium too. How they are linked isn't really mentioned on either site, but I notice that both sites link to https://stellarium-web.org/ which looks like it was originally released two years ago as Noctua Sky. The About box in the mobile version lists both the brothers as developers, and there is a comment on the forum to say that it is is a friendly fork.
  11. The star shapes in the third image suggest camera movement. Next time try hanging something from the hook on the bottom of the tripod and not extending the centre rod. More weight and a lower centre of gravity will make it more stable, even if it's a cheap tripod. And a 10 second delay will be more than enough to allow any vibrations from pressing the shutter release to damp down. Using a remote release is even better. Another thing is to try not to move around too much while the image is being taken as vibrations through soil can sometimes affect it too Once you've tried that, take images in different directions from the same spot and look at how the lines move. If they are reasonably consistant across the image, but vary from image to image then it's likely to be star trails
  12. After a bit of Googling, I found this https://wiki.telescopeclassics.com/images/c/c3/Swift_Instruments%2C_Inc._1961_Models_831%2C_838_And_839_Refractor_Manual.pdf Hopefully that's what you are looking for
  13. There goes that idea! It does seem different from the others. The D3100 also has a MC-DC2 port which takes my intervalometer, but it does allow USB control too. It was released about a year later than the D5000, so they may have changed things in that time
  14. That's odd. I've got a D3100 and a D3400, both of which can be controlled by DigiCamControl. The D3200 is listed under their supported cameras Connection is via the normal USB cable for those, and may also be for the D5000. The manual says it can use one for image transfer to a PC I've yet to try it, but libgphoto2 for Linux also lists them as supported cameras DigiCamControl also has an astronomy mode that should allow captures of more than 30 seconds. I only experiemented with it briefly when checking for another post about a month ago
  15. No regrets so far, although I should have booked some time off work for the recent lunar eclipse as it turned out to be clear when the forecast was saying otherwise in the run up. There will be another one along in about ten years, so I'm not worrying about it too much!
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