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About Mognet

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  1. Knowledge, experience, patience, a couple of dark sky sites, and good a good set of thermals for winter observing!
  2. Something I found useful for autumn and winter observing was dew shields for the finder scope as mine seems to mist up rather quick. You can make them easily from an old mousemat The supplied 10mm eyepiece isn't great, so replacing that is a good idea. BSTs are good for the price, and you can get two and still stay within budget Knowing where to find things in the sky is essential, along with knowing what it's possible to view. The book, Turn Left At Orion, is recommended, as is Stellarium. Stellarium is free on the PC, and quite cheap on a tablet. There is no need to rush to buy accessories, gaining knowledge and experience is a better way to start
  3. Thanks. That was more by luck than judgement as the photos were only experimental ones from my mak 127 run through AS!3, with a quick stretch in GIMP for contrast
  4. I didn't think that I'd captured the V, but thanks to your image and annotation I now know I did. Now I have to work on getting my images up to your standard! Went for a slightly different approach to orientation as mine didn't look right to me. Next time I'll try to get it earlier, especially as the Q shaped crater has a rough edge that for a short period casts some fantastic long shadows along the crater floor
  5. I'd heard of it before, but didn't know it was going to be visible tonight. Spotted it when I was having a look at the moon just after I set up. It's bright and nicely defined. Clear enough to elicit an expletive too Just seen this thread during a pause for foods. Now the sky is clearing properly I'm going to have a longer session
  6. Glad you've got it sorted now. Have fun!
  7. Thanks Tim. When the sky clears again, I'll do a proper multishot one with stacking in AS!2. The mak 127 seems to pull out a little more detail on the craters than the 200p dob Live view is a switch rather than a button. It's on the back, just off the top right of the screen. I don't know if there were multiple versions of the D3100 with some omitting the live view switch though. I've pulled this from the manual on the Nikon site
  8. Glad to hear you are getting there I've got a clear sky at the moment, which wasn't forecast, so I'm making the most of it and trying the moon shots myself. This is from about 9.25 this evening in the twilight. To focus, I used live view and not the viewfinder, so I could zoom in and get it into reasonably sharp focus (for anyone with a similar camera who has never tried it, that's the Lv switch, and the + and - buttons on the left). Once I got focus I zoomed out again to reposition, then used the 10 second timer. The camera was setup as 1/320th of a second, ISO 1600, but this can be varied for exposure. I shot in camera raw mode and only performed rough processing and de-noising in RawTherapee. My exposure and processing are a bit off, but it shows that it can be done
  9. If it happens again, then it's probably worth reporting it to Malwarebytes as a probable false positive detection. I couldn't find a link on their site, but antivirus providers usually do provide a method of reporting. False positives do happen from time to time. I've seen it happen with my employers software product, and I've read of a number of others too.
  10. Hi Tim You haven't really made a rookie mistake, but have run into things that don't make themselves obvious with visual observation. I have an almost identical setup, and I think you might be seeing the effects of two things. The mak 127 has a long focal length (1500mm) so is sensitive to vibration. It can take a few seconds for vibrations from even gentle touches to settle out. For this, use either the 10 second delay timer, or a remote shutter release. You can see this physical movement when zooming in on live view to get the focus. Using a barlow lens will also make this movement appear worse as it will double or treble the focal length. The other is could be the movement in the air itself, where slight and moving changes to air temperature cause the image to shift. It's heat haze on a small scale, but will still interfere with focus in a photo, even if the focus is sharp in the live view. I took these two photos. The first is in my sheltered garden at not much more than the minimum focus distance of the mak, 1/15th of a second at ISO 100. It's almost sharp, and I could probably improve on it. The second was a couple of hundred metres away over houses, at 1/320th of a second, ISO 1600. I had to use those settings as the air was moving too much to give a sharp image at a slower shutter speed.
  11. Have you had any interest yet?
  12. Would fibreglass be a better option? Should be ok for wifi, and would probably be lighter too. Might also be easier to get the shape you want too
  13. If you're only long or short sighted, then you should be fine at the eyepiece without glasses. I have mild astigmatism in my observing eye, and that's not been a problem either when not wearing my glasses I've taken a bit of an interest in your journey as you were asking the kind of questions I never thought to ask. And it looks like you're enjoying it, despite the clouds!
  14. There's still Essex people about. Not met any of you yet as I haven't been out to any of the local meets. Frustrated with the clouds here in South Woodham Ferrers. Looked out 30 minutes ago to see a whole ten stars, Jupiter, and the moon illuminating plenty of high thin clouds. They may look nice, but they're being absolutely no help to me tonight!
  15. I haven't got my hands on a 3D printer yet so I'm not entirely sure what's what, but I've found a company local to me doing PLA from £10 a kilo for 3mm filament, and at the cheaper end it's not all fluorescent