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mikeyj1

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About mikeyj1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Astronomy, Astro-photography, Photography, Camping and Caravaning
  • Location
    Gloucestershire, UK
  1. I've been using APT (also subscription, but a lot less!) and more recently SGP. Have to say SGP is outstanding, and as I had already purchased it at v3.x last year, (@$99) I can carry on with that Ad-infinitum, or move to the sub model for $10 and the sub... makes it a bit less painful i think.. but I won't be doing that until i need to that's for sure..! Mike
  2. I have to say imaging with a DSLR on a 1000mm or in my case 1200mm is perfect. I've been trying out a QSi6120 mono (3.1um pixels), and i find that binning 2x2 is better than 1x1 for star shape and bloat. Personally, i have hankered after the QHY8 or the QHY10 as a good upgrade from DSLR, as they still have the same format sensor but good cooling. i know they are getting on a bit, but that D5100 sensor is still really v good hope that doesn't add to your confusion...! Mike
  3. Hey Paul, so viewing or astrophotography? Viewing as you say, set the scope to your eyesight - I'm mildly short sighted, and i notice the difference when I share binos or an eyepiece viewing. Of course if your glasses have to cope with other astigmatisms then it may be that you have to wear them. In which case choose long focus EP's, often the focal point is beyond the glass of the spectacles, so you don't bang your eye on it. Astrophotography: just don't rely on focusing by eye - use a Bhatinov mask or similar to get the focus right... HTH? Mike
  4. Excellent as a guide camera...i've got two of the colour ones, fitted to 9x50finder guider and they have never let me down. £40 is a great price in my view
  5. It’s an 102ed Altair refractor. The fits file is also there for info, the graph you show is interesting, so you think its definitely a focus issue? I focused on LUM, which i didn't even use... i guess i need to do some experiments on focusing next clear night thanks Vlaiv
  6. Hi, can anyone help me - I've attached some png's showing stacked channels on the pacman nebula. Ha and Green are really sharp, but the red and blue are showing really bloated stars. i didn't re-focus on filter change as I had left it running and don't have an autofocus on that scope. Having said that, the small / faint stars in the images still seem nice and sharp...so is there another explanation, and how should i handle the processing? thanks in anticipation Mike NGC281_Pacman_Nebula-Blue-session_1.fits
  7. Looks like it lost the star. Look at star mass and SNR in the graphs, they both take a tumble at that point. curious why the camera frame size is showing as 640x480 in your screen shot also...
  8. thanks Ray, I'm still wondering if the ADU max level will change if I Bin 2x2 compared to 1x1? in any case i will aim for around 20k and 2 secs or less for the LRGB. I will experiment some more tonight hopefully, looks like it may be clearing...! cheers Mike
  9. Hi all, I have been trying to get flats using the 6120 and LRGB filters, but struggling to find an exposure, it's either ridiculously short for 20,000 adu (approaching bias frame speed!), or far too long (8-10sec) for 33,000, which is the 'default' in SGP. i seem to only be able to get a max of around 31,000 adu even with a multi second exposure, into a relatively bright source. I have a stretched t shirt as my diffuser What should i be aiming for, and does the binning level make a difference on the max level? thanks Mike
  10. which Sky safari are you using? I have the plus version which is good enough for me, but the pro version claims mag 18 and 'the largest mobile star database' extract from web site: (mag 18 was galaxies) We Have The Best Stars We’ve updated to use the UCAC5 star catalog with 29 million stars down to 15th magnitude. And with an in-app purchase you can get a total 109 million stars.*
  11. Some people are just too quick off the mark I'm interested in the adapter from M12 to M8, could you post a pic of that so i can see how you did it please? is this it? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313027201875
  12. I'd normally work it the other way round - how many resistors spaced approx 1 cm gap do you need for a certain length.. Looking at the 'dewNot' table below, suggests 8W, 0.66A at 12vdc Power (P) of a resistor "ladder" is calculated the following way: P = ( Supply voltage ^ 2 ) / ( resistor value / number of resistors ) (ref: http://www.deepskywatch.com/Articles/newtonian-dew-heater.html) 8= 144 / (330 / X) X = ~18 but .. they are 1/4 w resistors and using that calculation you would be putting nearly 1/2 W through them... a bit hot! so.. it looks like you would need 660 ohm resistors or rely on the PWM drive to limit the max power/heat (EDIT: this would half the power to 4W, maybe not enough to keep things clear) or use 18 330 ohm 1/2 W resistors... PS: connect them all up to the cable, and try it out before adding the covering, you can feel how hot they get
  13. did you post to the APT forum?...usually a good bet Ivo can sort it out
  14. just going back to the OP, difference between Coll cap and Laser, it could be that the focuser tube is out of alignment, ie not square / lined up to the main tube. This doesn't normally show itself on a coll cap, but a laser will pick it up. Checking that is a little more difficult; you need to find the diametrically opposite point of the focuser center inside the main tube, and then make sure a collimated laser points directly at it... HTH Mike
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