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About mikeyj1

  • Rank
    Star Forming

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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Astronomy, Astro-photography, Photography, Camping and Caravaning
  • Location
    Gloucestershire, UK
  1. I have been using my LEDLenser with a self installed red filter since 2016, and it works a treat. variable brightness and focus give low level light but instant brightness when needed. i see that amazon has them for £18.99 at the moment, less than 1/2 the price i paid for mine! The Red Gel filter is a circle of acetate cut to fit the lens module https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N324CAA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_0eJICbZX82G0T
  2. Hi Im interested in this Mark, still for sale? Are you going to PAS tomorrow? cheers Mike
  3. Hi here is my Sky-Fi controller. I have used it with both the AZEQ6 and Nexstar mounts and works perfectly in conjunction with Sky Safari software on the iPad or phone. When connected you can Sync, Goto and get an audio description of the object selected, which is all very swish really . The original case instructions are included, although the micro usb came with a US plug, but it charges from any micro USB charger lead so not an issue These days I only use EQMOD, so don't need it anymore. New (mid 2017) it was $200 Here is the LINK to the website Postage should be £2.85, or I will be at Kettering this Saturday if someone want to get it delivered personally! cheers Mike
  4. yes, it definitely needs it...but carefully, find and follow a procedure, as already said
  5. David, Try this: Bathroom scales - weigh yourself and make a note. pick up your assembled scope and accessories and weigh again, you should get a reasonably accurate difference to give you the total weight of the kit.
  6. You don't mention which scope you are using, but based on the Field of view its a long focal length, so SCT? if it's operating at F10 (no reducer), then you need a lot more 'data' (time) on exposures (make it 150 frames of 15 secs and see how it looks) The dark smudges on the frames are dust or marks on the lens or mirror. you will need 'Flats' to get rid of that. I'm not familiar with Linux or Siril, but the basics wont change..stacking and calibrating frames together
  7. Hi, Here is my GPCAM3 290c (usb3, colour) bought new just over a year ago. Its a very nice camera, I have used it for Planetary and deep sky imaging with Altare Capture and APT. It's convinced me that for my home setup, OSC is the way to go, but i want a bigger sensor, similar to the DSLR so I need to spend somewhat more money! I include a couple of images taken with it recently below The passive fins do a remarkable job of cooling the sensor (eg my DSLR runs at 16 deg. when the ambient is 8 deg., the GPCAM runs at 10-11 deg. in same conditions) cheers Mike
  8. As a goto ALT/AZ its easy to setup and use, capacity is about 5kg of weight so my Mak127mm used to sit on it very happily
  9. I wanted to image this for a while, and conditions were great, so i collimated the Newtonian, set up with the DSLR, and gathered about 2.3 hours of 3 min exposures at 800 iso. Processed in APP and Lightroom, I'm really pleased with the result thanks for looking, and any feedback for improvement is welcome of course Mike
  10. Hi Peter Congrats on the new scope! Well, there's lots to learn...and see . First thing is about setting up the mount so it will follow the path of the stars across the sky. The manual will help you set it up so that the 'RA' axis points toward north celestial pole (pole star / polaris), assuming you are in the northern hemisphere?. Using it for visual you don't need to be too precise, it will just help with the manual tracking. As for capabilities, it will be good for the moon, and the larger planets (Jupiter and Saturn mainly), and you should look for some of the brighter night objects, Messier 42 in the sword of Orion is great. A word of caution - you wont see all the vibrant colours and details you see in magazines and online, (these images are built up with light captured over many hours normally). Double stars, globular clusters, and some Asterisms like the 'coathanger' 'beehive' and 'double cluster' will be good to see. the 9mm and 10mm are only for use on the moon or maybe planets, deep space objects need more light, and are usually bigger so the 15 and 20mm will be your best ones to use normally. The barlow (doubles the magnification of any of the eyepieces used with it) will only really make things dimmer and more fuzzy unfortunately, so only use that on the moon for now good luck with it Mike
  11. mines alternated between orange, red and green every few hours, but i want to keep this one please...
  12. Hi, What's the idea with the extra set of tube rings? GL with the sale, it's a great scope
  13. I changed my cable to Arctic grade last February. It is better than standard cable, but still stiff at -5 to 0 deg C, I was a little disappointed to be honest.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Metres-Blue-Mains-Arctic-Cable-3-Core-3-x-1-5mm-13A-240v-Outdoor-3183AG-10m-/290781427785?hash=item43b3ec7849 regards Mike
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