Dr_Ju_ju

In that case, what errors are you seeing when trying to re-flash the synscan ?

Before trying a downgrade, which I doubt will work, as I believe its different hardware, have\are you able to, control the mount directly via a PC using EQMod and a USB to serial cable\adaptor ? This will at least rule out the synscan & prove its not the mount that is the problem...

define work.....

From the published specs, almost any 12v SPDT\DPDT modular (pcb mounted) relays will do what you require. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you could easily knock-up your own...

All the strips I've seen also have solder pads every 50mm'ish, so another way to 'change direction' without using iffy connectors, is to solder small jumper wires between pads of the same polarity....

If you have some way of accurately measuring them, then SKF (https://www.skf.com/uk/index.html) should be able to supply some new ones

I'd also add a layer of mylar ? or some other form of non-conductive film, between the water pipes and the electronics underneath, just in case there is any condensation that drips….

As you say, how about some tin foil (heavy duty) wrapped around the outside ....

Instead of bathroom sealant, use a liquid gasket (https://tinyurl.com/y5wokj3a) They are meant for much harsher environments than we use....

and then more work, regularly mowing it....

Another thought on a way to cut down on the internal condensation, would be to fill the internal chamber with an inert gas that doesn't have any water vapour e.g. Argon (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wine-Food-Preserver-Gas-Pure-Inert-Argon-in-an-Aerosol-Can-by-Preservintage/323711813681?epid=27029742041&hash=item4b5eba4831:g:wNgAAOSwqaNcdWlZ) As long as the enclosure can be sealed, including sealings around cable entries etc. that should remove one of your issues, ensuring internally the dome remains clear....

and don't make them too shallow, also if the steps are in darkness, paint some fluorescent edges...

Instead of having everything bolted together as a monolithic block, have you considered using heat pipes (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_pipe) to conduct the heat to different areas to meet you needs ?

One thing to try, is to run the updater as Administrator, i.e. right click the application & select "Run As Administrator". that can usually get around a lot of the issues....

Does it have to be super dry ?? I usually find that just the fact that there's circulating air. means things stay dry. It's when air is stagnant that allows for any moisture to condense out...

Sounds like you need the opposite of fully sealed, but open'ish with a forced air flow....

I don't know the mount, but if you have EQMod - Ascom installed, the Ascom configuration under "Site Information, GPS" can query the u-blox receiver & store\save the data. It's what I use & works well....

ROFLMAO ?

I 'm shocked ?, now what 'removed word' was it ????

Is this Obsy going to have a basement ??

To rejuvenate the tablets, just pop them into the microwave & blast for 5 mins, I do it at least once a year...

A thought... Attach a wireless keyboard\mouse and external display (larger\easier to see), to the laptop, which can be folded down and put somewhere safer... should then be less cables getting the way..... As for the path\garden, as I was loosing valuable time mowing, twice a week, I just removed the grass and built a large fish pond and dome, then planted up the rest with dwarf species & annuals.

If you can't get an inert dry gas in, how about producing a vacuum ??

If there's moisture in the air and a colder surface on the inside, then water will condense out.... it would probably better to have a forced air-flow ??

There are Arduino libraries for the DHT22, I believe Rob Brown's Arduino dew heater system uses them to measure relative humidity...