Dr_Ju_ju

Like Gina, I always properly tap the holes before fitting any bolts, as I usually find the act of trying to insert the screw\bolt, even with correctly printed\drilled holes, compresses and distorts the material, making the area around the hole weaker... So yes, you have what appears to be a secure screw\bolt, but the structural integrity in the surrounding material is compromised, possibly leading to failure of the part.

I've done something similar when I wanted a central pilot hole on the end of a circular wooden pole. It would just be scaling up... This was done in Tinkercad, which is a free web based design tool made by Autodesk.... Pole Centre Hole.stl

For all our bluster, scanners\copiers are made in the 10,000's whereas 3D printers are much small numbers, so it all comes down to economies of scale...

They both look very pretty, and even though they've been around for some time, there isn't much on-line info\reviews on them.... The problem is that with any printer, especially smaller ones, is that you will just want\need to print a slightly bigger part than can safely be printed, without the head running into top or sides etc. that's why the 200x200 size is almost a standard, as it will cover 80% of most peoples needs.

Hmm, MK8's are just clones of the original E3D's MK6, with 'supposed' updates, I'd be sorely tempted to ditch it & fit a reliable original....

I've moved away from glass sheets for the DBot bed, and instead use a 6mm cast aluminium sheet with a mains driven heater and a PEI sheet, attached to the surface. It's a lot quicker heating up and is very flat, i.e. RepRapFirmware height map file v2 generated at 2018-11-12 21:18, mean error -0.022, deviation 0.049 xmin,xmax,ymin,ymax,radius,xspacing,yspacing,xnum,ynum 10.00,290.00,10.00,280.00,-1.00,45.00,45.00,7,7 0.050, 0.025, 0.048, 0.085, 0.075, 0.080, 0.102 0.005, 0.000, 0.017, 0.045, 0.030, 0.023, 0.038 0.003, -0.030, -0.002, 0.003, -0.030, -0.040, -0.030 -0.038, -0.045, -0.038, -0.030, -0.047, -0.065, -0.053 -0.045, -0.072, -0.068, -0.070, -0.083, -0.083, -0.072 -0.047, -0.068, -0.072, -0.072, -0.083, -0.077, -0.065 -0.010, -0.040, -0.050, -0.055, -0.053, -0.047, -0.027 looks like it needs another tune-up....

E3D boots are designed for their heater blocks\nozzles and there are different boots for different configurations, whereas the cloned ones quite often have different block\nozzle sizes, so may not fit properly or keep falling off, so check before buying, preferably from the printer manufacturer.

Heater cartridges 'should' also be fused to the wire & not soldered as that makes the best contact with least resistance.....

It's always the things added to list to do later, that can cause problems in the meantime, especially when your itching to use the Obsy for its intended purpose...

Ouch! the uprights will be ok, but hoping that the flooring doesn't de-laminate, it shouldn't, but I've had some 'supposed' good quality go on me...

Just call it The Kraken.....

It comes with Windows 10, so anything you would do on your pc\laptop, you could do on the bar, with a caveat of how many things concurrently running... The info is still on QHY's site i.e. https://www.qhyccd.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=show&catid=30&id=144

I thought Titan's were bigger than Giants.... But for printers, the Hang Printer beats them all (https://hangprinter.org/) unless your into industrial wall printing....

If you could get hold of one, the Wanhao D7 Plus (https://www.wanhaouk.com/collections/frontpage/products/d7-plus) would be a reasonable starter for resin printer at a more sensible initial cost, but the resin is quite expensive compared to filament, as well as the additional handling that is required.

you can usually add a delay in the gcode, so should be scriptable in the slicer...

the barrel is the easy bit, doing a thread for T2\M48 would be challenging... but if you can come to the problem from a different angle then maybe they will do what you want....

Personally, I'd forget Cura, as I found it didn't produce good results. Instead I mostly use Prusas' variant of Slic3r (https://www.prusa3d.com/slic3r-prusa-edition/) which has much more control of machine, materials, print control, than Cura, or even Simplify3d (paid for). I even use it to slice models for use on my DBot\DuetEthernet machine. As for design work, I use OpenScad, but it can be daunting for new users, but for quick simple knock ups, I tend to use AutoDesks' Tinkercad (https://www.tinkercad.com/) which is free for personal use. It is not as powerful as some other packages (paid & free) but is a simple tool to use & produce workable objects. As for bed levelling, I've tried various device, switched\capacitive\inductive etc. and the most accurate and repeatable, I've found, are the Pinda probes fitted to Prusa printers, and the Precision Piezo devices (https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/). The Pinda's are difficult to get, but the PP's are cheap, easy to fit, but you lose some print height...

I have one bolted permanently onto my Prusa i3 MK2, it gives you the same type of functionality you get with the Duet Ethernet\WIFI, so very worthwhile installing,

Speak for yourself, it was supposed to be clear, but now, there's loads of high cloud, obscuring everything ?

I have the AZ-EQ6 & yes there was some slop, which I've managed to remove by adjusting worm tensions & ensuring that the puck's 3 allen keyed bolts are done up....

Wonderful, last night was a short session, but clear while it lasted. If you ever want to 'bolt' something to the side of the pier, e,g, a small table\box for control equipment, the best solution I could find was the oversize jubilee clips i.e. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Duct-Jubilee-Clip-Clamp-4-to-12-Flexible-Ducting-Hose-Pipe-Ventilation/282043290937?hash=item41ab171539:m:m-72SUBcAoYwPrdsU753UdQ

I love the way its all clamped down. Hoping that that you don't get any high winds.

As long as you can read a rule correctly & scale accordingly you can never go wrong.... but must always be prepared for the unexpected...

… but don't rush it too quickly, especially when it comes to the power & connection installations.

forget updates here, just get it finished.. you can always catch-up when it's dark etc....