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Showing results for tags 'eq6'.
Found 43 results
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Hi, My EQ6 mount is old now. Very stiff RA and DEC axis, it's time to dismantle it and see how bad the inside is. I followed the Astro Baby guide and it was not any big problem to dismantle it. It looks fine inside, I suspect some earlier owner already have done this cleaning and put new grease on. But that must be years ago. When I now have dismantled everything, shall I rebuilt it and install timing belt drives? I feel it's a little to much money to put on this old mount. I have to think about it and see what alternatives there are. Here is my EQ6 dismantling story: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/projects/project-eq6-dismantling-rebuilding/01-eq6-dismantling-rebuilding.html Only first part, now I'm drawing plans. /Lars
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Background:Even though I'd really like one, it's not entirely practical or financially viable at the moment for me to have a permanent observatory in my garden.I therefore thought the next best thing is to build a pier - which should offer superior stability than a tripod and not take up much room.This idea was run past the wife and surprisingly approved without much fuss. When not in astronomical use it was agreed that the pier will be topped with a sundial in order to make it blend in a bit better.Since I was looking for a low cost option, I've taken the inspiration for the build from the piers at Todmorden Observatory, which I know a few other SGL members have also implemented.Materials for pier:M10 Stainless Steel A2 Threaded Bar (1m) x2 £10.46 Toolstation http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p79966M10 Stainless Steel A2 Dome nuts x8 £ 1.95 Ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160881328576M10 Stainless Steel A2 Nuts x12 £ 4.49 Ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181036635594M10 Stainless Steel A2 Washers x16 £ 2.69 Ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360543852606440mm x 215mm x 215mm Hollow Concrete Block 7N x2 £ 3.30 MKM.B.S. https://www.mkmbs.co.uk/prodb004313-440mm-x-215mm-x-215mm-hollow-concrete-block-7n/Postcrete 20kg x3 £17.97 Wickes http://www.wickes.co.uk/Blue-Circle-Postcrete-20kg/p/221100Wood off cut (approx 20cm x 20cm) x1 £ 0.00Masonry Paint x1 £ 0.00TOTAL £40.86Tools:PencilRulerSpirit LevelDrillMasonry Drill Bits (5mm, 10mm)Wood Drill bit (10mm)SpannersSpade/TrowelSaw suitable for metalConstruction Instructions:Select a suitable site in your gardenDig a hole approx (30cm x 30cm square) x 40cm deep Cut the M10 threaded bar into 4x 33cm and 4x 10.5cm lengthsBend the M10 threaded bar 33cm lengths at right angles approx 8cm from one end (may need to heat them up to do this)Drill 4 holes into one of the concrete blocks using the 5mm drill bit, then go through again with the 10mm bitPlace the other block on top and mark through the holes with a pencil, then drill the second blockUse the 4x 10.5cm lengths of M10 threaded bar to attach the two blocks together using washers, nuts and the dome nuts on topDrill 4 holes in the base of one blockPut an off cut of wood on the block and mark through the holes with the pencilDrill the holes in the woodAttach the 4x 33cm lengths of M10 threaded bar using nuts. This is only temporary, since this is effectively a 'former' in order to ensure that the bars line up with your block holes when they've been set in the concrete Mix most of the concrete and pour into the holeInsert the 'former' ensuring that the underside nuts are not submerged, that approx 50mm of bar is above the concrete, and most importantly the 'former' is level Add more concrete if necssary & tamp down to make the top smoothWait until the concrete is set & remove the wooden 'former' Smooth out any unevenness in the concrete, ensure it is approx level and that the block fits onto the exposed threaded barsAdd a small amount of concrete & place the block on top, adding more concrete around the sides as necessaryMake sure the block is as level as possibleWait until the concrete is set and fix it into position using washers and dome nutsPaint the whole thingOther notes:You could use cheaper zinc plated threaded bar and nuts/washers, I selected A2 stainless steel for longevity and anti-rusting.Stainless steel comes in A2 and A4. A4 is generally more expensive and is mainly for marine use.Another option for the base is bolting it to some freestanding paving slabsAnother option for attaching the blocks and base together is using specialist glue
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I'm trying to update my v3 handset prior to selling the mount. I need to update the bootloader from v1.0 to v1.7 before I can upgrade the firmware from 3.12 to the newest version. I've tried following the instructions in the bootloader download but the upgrade loader refuses to install anything. Before I realised I needed to update the bootloader, the synscan loader v3.3 just showed 255 255 255 where it should display the handset software, ie 3.12. Can anyone advise what I'm doing wrong? The handset won't run the mount probably because I had a replacement motor control board a few years ago., I'm guessing. It worked fine before that. I've been using eqMod for years. Thanks. Anne
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I am going to upgrade to the skywatcher 250/1200 pds telescope and i can't decide which mount i should get. The main (only) purpose is astrophtography and i am considering either the eq6-r- pro or the cem60 The cem60 can carry more weight but is also more expensive, my inner debate now is about if it is worth it What's you take on it?
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A very lightly used AZ EQ6-GT mount and tripod for sale. The mount is approx 3 years old and I am the second owner. It is in exceptional condition and as stated has been very lightly used by myself and previous owner. Reason I am selling, due to a change of job and working away significant parts of the week / month I have no time to indulge in the hobby at the moment. The mount comes with all the usual items, Mount and tripod, hand controller, cigarette power lead, eqmod usb lead, manual. Also included in the sale is the ADM losmandy / Vixen saddle and the regulated power supply - this one as per FLO website - Nevada PS-08 PSU Price is £995 ovno for everything. I have the box for the mount with original packaging but not the tripod, hence this is pick up only or can travel and meet half way by arrangement - I travel extensively so I'm sure something can be arranged. I accept cash, cheques and bank transfer (which is easiest to be honest). Paypal if the buyer pays the fees. The mount is currently in my observatory and can be seen working if you wish. The ES102 pictured is also for sale in the next ad! Thanks for reading and if you have questions please PM me and we can discuss in more detail. Neil. -
Hi All I need the combined brains and experience of SGL please, I'm stuck!! I've been an astronomer for 30+ years and have had several Skywatcher telescopes over time, including my current EQ6-Pro for about 10 years. This is largely irrelevant to my post, except that I hope to convey that I'm not a total novice to getting telescopes to work as they should...although I feel like I am today. I recently picked up a very battered early-version EQ6 with 10" reflector, cheap. It hadn't been looked after well and when I first fired it up...it didn't fire up at all. No life. I noticed that the power supply wasn't suitable as it only had a 0.5A output. So after digging out a spare one from the cupboard outputting 12V 1.25A, the Synscan chirped into life. My first attempt to slew the mount was met with a horrible grinding noise and refusal to move. Needless to say, I didn't do that again. Clearly the motor/gear train was seized. So a quick look on the internet brought up the amazing website posted by Astro Baby, with step by step instructions on how to strip and rebuild an EQ5 or EQ6 mount. This kept me entertained for a couple of nights, followed by a lovely smooth running mount slewing in RA and DEC as it should. Many thanks Astro Baby! Last night was the first clear night, so I took the mount out, popped the 10" scope on (had a full respray, new finder, new focuser and laser collimation), and awaited the fall of darkness. Here comes the rub. I roughly aligned the mount on Polaris, not bothering too much for this first test. The Synscan controller is (unfortunately) running Version 2.05, which is one of the early versions that are not flash upgradable. Although I didn't realise this until after I had downloaded all of the upgrade files from OVL's website. ? When I picked the first alignment star (Capella, rising nicely in the north-east sky), the mount did something completely unexpected and slewed around to east of the meridian and pointed somewhere in the direction of Alcor! What the ...? After several unsuccessful attempts at carrying out an alignment, I gave up and looked online for any similar problems. I've checked and confirmed all of the following things are correct: Location - yep as per my Cumbria coordinates Date - yep in the right format (mm/dd/yyyy) that good old confusing American format Time - yep I tried with BST and without BST (not really expecting any significant difference) Made sure the mount was in the "parked" position (weights down, scope pointing towards Polaris) before turning the mount on Tried all sorts of initial alignment stars, but none of them were in the right area of the sky at all Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find anything on the web that offers a solution. I did wonder if I've done something during the disassembly of the mount - but I know the mount doesn't have encoders on it. I didn't see anything that looked like a counter of any kind? I don't think it can be anything to do with the power supply...surely that couldn't introduce such a wild error in pointing? It's like the handset has no idea where it is. Any help would be much appreciated. This was going to be a second mount for me, but at this rate it's going to go on the scrap heap. I did think about buying a V3 handset, but didn't want to commit another £120 in case it's something in the mount itself that's the problem. Yours hopefully Jeremy
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A new target for me - the Running Chicken Nebula sits about halfway between the Southern Cross and the Eta Carina Nebula. IC2948 Running Chicken Nebula in Centaurus ( bright star is Lambda Cenauri) (RA 11h 39.6m - Dec -63deg 37.2'). Skywatcher Quattro 10" f4 Newtonian. Skywatcher AZ Eq6 GT (on Pier) Orion auto guider - PHD2 (RA only - Dec ungiuded). Baader MPCC Mark 3 Coma Corrector, UHC-S (Nebula) filter, Nikon D5300 (unmodified), Long Exp Noise Reduction on, 14bit NEF, 13 x 300 sec ISO 200. PixInsight & Photoshop 28 March 15
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Hi, I was looking at YouTube today and came across an upgrade for a Skywatcher EQ6/NEQ6 that makes setting the latitude setting easier.... See... http://www.modernastronomy.com/shop/mount-accessories/mkii-eq6wedge/ Has anybody done this upgrade? Cheers Adrian
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M13 - Great Globular Cluster in Hercules from 06/09/2018 22,180 light years away, 145 light years wide Quite a close crop on this due to its scale in my scope, but happy nonetheless. Looks like better flats are definately helping me out now when it comes to processing. The only thing I couldn't work out is the faint fuzzy at around 2 o'clock. With a bit more research it looks like it is the spiral galaxy NGC6207 (distance 30 million light years) - and VERY faintly you can just make out IC4617 (489 million light years away) TS65Q / Modded 1200D / EQ6 Guided - 83x30s© 2018 S Fields
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Hi I have a new and unsed Altair Astro observatory pier and (N)EQ6 adapter. Pictures and details can be found here: http://www.altairastro.com/altair-skyshed-8-observatory-pier.html ** Reduced to £300 - Buyer Must Collect *** http://www.altairastro.com/pier-adapter-skywatcher-celestron-ioptron-multi-mount.html ** SOLD *** I'm looking for £370 for the Pier and £35 for the Adapter. This represents about 70% of the current list prices. The buyer must collect from Redditch due to the weight. Kind Regards Terry
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Took the bull by the horns and done the power modification on my Eq6 pro to connect via the 2pin connector , bit nerve racking haven’t really done much soldering before ,managed to do soldering without frying anything, used Blu-tac to isolate surrounding area so I didn’t solder anything I shouldn’t have , mount powered up checked slewing with handset , steady red light voltage reading 14v dropping to 13.9v slewing phew ?
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I am looking for a pre-goto EQ6 for a project. Looking to spend up to £300 depending on condition. Phil
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From the album: CCD venture
A h-alpha shot of the Wizard nebula in Cepheus. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS. -
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From the album: EQ6
Skywatcher EQ6 mount with a modified 12v power connector. REAN Tiny XLR 3-pin (only 2 pins used).© M.Gough 2015
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From the album: Equipment Pictures
Trend Lever Bolt used for quickly attaching and detaching EQ6 from my pier. -
Dear All! Please read everything!!! I have a big DEC backlash on my EQ3 mount near to 8000ms, and the pulse guide correction is slow and the 2000ms doesnt enough to correct this issue. So I decided to correct it with this great EQMOD project to add some new code in the backlash correction The plan was to use the slew direction to correct the backlash! WARNING!!!! this code works like the slew controls so its minimally override the DEC coordinates. Installation from zip file: 1. install AQESCOM - final version\EQASCOM_V200j_Setup.exe 2. Copy files from final version\common files\eqcontrl.dll to C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\ASCOM\Telescope or C:\Program Files\Common Files\ASCOM\Telescope, but make BACKUP first! 3. run EQMOD's toolbox and register eqmod.exe 4. Happy testing. In my case the correction ratio is 800 and duration is 290ms PS. Thank You for the developers to this great project!!! final version.zip -
Hi I recently bought a new Skywatcher EQ6 Mount, I found that the RA axis the movement of the mount is not free, i had completely unlocked the RA Lever lock and I have not connected it to any power, as i am located in San Jose, CA the Latitude is not too low for the Pole Star. I found the astro-baby site recommends the stripping down of the EQ6 mount and greasing it, but however want to know if i need to really do it for a new mount. I used to own Sirius mount for over 3 years and never had this issue. thanks BK
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hi i am looking for same parts for my neq6 3 yeas old , the part is : RA & DEC clutch locking bolt & bolt Screw ( i Loss it in Strip Down ) motor worm-gear ( Damage ) RA & DEC stepper motors please help me where can i find the parts?? best regards sam
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Sometime last year after completing a long session on the Crab Nebula, I turned my C9.25 to it and took a 20 minute Ha exposure at F10. The little bit of detail that came through made a big impression on me, and so I planned a kit upgrade to get a proper image done at that scale. One C11 EdgeHD and Atik428ex later, here's the result. My EQ6 is working at its limit, but performing admirably under the pressure of providing a stable platform for a rig running at 2800mm focal length. The resolution is really pushing it too, 0.67 arcsec/pixel, but I wanted to see what the scope could do, so any time there was a clear hour or two, another few subs were added to the total mix. I've really enjoyed this one, it has kind of made up for a dreadful year of weather and cloudy skies. I have a new reducer on the way for the scope, and possibly a new camera too, so will be looking for some new challenges in 2013. Full details below, thanks for looking. Cheers Tim Full Size Here Telescope: C11 EdgeHD Focal Length: 2800mm F Ratio: F10 Camera: Atik 428ex Binned: 2x2 Resolution: 0.67 arcsec/pixel Mount: EQ6 Exposure Details: Luminance : 38mins Red: 58mins Green: 104mins Blue: 45mins Ha 7nm: 360mins Oiii: 785mins Sii: 325mins Total Exposure: 23hrs Data gathered over several weeks Autumn/Winter 2012 Software: Capture: Nebulosity 3 Guiding: PHD Stacking & Calibration: DeepSkyStacker (3x Drizzle) Initial Processing: Pixinsight Combining: Registar 1.0 Processing: Photoshop CS5- 50 replies
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- m1 crab nebula
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From the album: EQ6
Skywatcher EQ6 mount with a modified 12v power connector. REAN Tiny XLR 3-pin (only 2 pins used).© M.Gough 2015
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From the album: CCD venture
A h-alpha shot of the Wall section of NGC7000 aka north america nebula. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS. -
From the album: CCD venture
A h-alpha shot of the Wall section of NGC7000 aka north america nebula. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS.© 2016JayBird
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Hey guys, following on from my last thread regarding drift alignment issues, I finally (after a year and a half of trying) managed to get what seemed to be precise polar alignment using the drift method. The goal of this is to get long(ish) unguided subs. My setup is a Skywatcher NEQ6, SW 80ED Refractor, Canon 100D DSLR and i'm using BackyardEOS to control the camera. I don't yet have a focal reducer or any form of autoguiding. Here is an image of my altitude alignment (using the D.A.R.V method), using a star at around ±10° dec from the celestial equator, as near to the east horizon as possible. (Apologies for the poor image quality - I had to use my phone camera since print screen didn't seem to want to work on the laptop). And here is my alignment for the azimuth (taken near the meridian at ~0° dec). I spent hours trying to get both as precise as possible - I think more precise alignment would have been next to impossible for me to do. Regardless, after finally feeling like i'd got good alignment, I went to take an image and I was pretty disheartened. A 30 second exposure left me with significant star trails. The longest subs I could get without trails were ~15 seconds. After nearly a year and a half of just trying to get good polar alignment, it feels like a bit of an insult, especially given that people often talk about getting 30-60 second unguided subs. But, i'm determined to eventually get there. So my question is, why is this happening? Could it be that my mount is flawed or damaged from the time I dropped it on my head? Do I just not have enough practice making the small adjustments to the mount required for unguided subs? Could balancing play into this? I've tried to balance my mount as best I can, but the dec axis is still heavily skewed towards the back/camera end of the scope and i'm unable to move the scope any further forward on the dovetail to counter this. Or could this be that i've simply hit the limit of my setup? I was always intending on buying an autoguider once I was familiar with my equipment and able to get good polar alignment, but would it be worth it? I'm a bit worried that if I can't get better alignment, an autoguider really isn't going to make much difference (and at best give me bad field rotation). Alternatively, are there any other methods of polar alignment I could use? I don't really want to use the polar scope method, and would prefer drift alignment if possible. I'm aware that pHd has a drift alignment procedure, and i'm tempted to try it if I do end up getting an auto guider. Any help or discussion is much appreciated! Cheers, Crowmium.
