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About pmlogg

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  1. My Pulsar dome sits on a stone circle rather than concrete (the pier base is concrete) so I didn't want too many holes drilled into it to support decking. The support framework for my floor has cross members to make it into a single, structure which sits atop the stone rather than screwed to it. Cabling goes under the floor with one section of decking hinged to give access if necessary. I have a gap of around 6 to 7mm between the decking boards for ventilation. To avoid losing small items down those gaps I have a section of thin matting covering one part of the decking. I've not suffered fro
  2. You won't find anything available off the shelf as each dome manufacturer tends to have their own bespoke system and none are cheap and cheerful. If you search here you will find various solutions that have been produced DIY. A lot of ingenuity has been shown and those who have come up with systems will be able to offer advice. I was lucky to have the help of two Stargazerslounge users who helped me to automate one of the first models of Pulsar rotation systems, designed for the original dome version. I had managed to buy that second hand. Even that had to be modified a bit as it
  3. I'd be happy to buy the Baader EP holder if still available. Thanks
  4. Well that has unleashed a lot of very interesting discussion. I did have two PM that did offer good advice on the SXVR-H64 and as I did have a used one in mind I bought it. Still waiting for a good clear night to properly test it. I had decided on that sensor some time back because I wanted to switch to an anti-blooming sensor. I was attracted to the relatively high QE, the compatibility with my 1200mm refractor and with the ability to stick with 1.25" filters. I'd been able to upgrade my set of those so I'm not ready to move to larger diameter ones. There were a lot of good reports o
  5. This was what the company told me in an email 11 years ago: "the carrying capacity of UNI 14 is 55 kg and for UNI 4 60 kg. The carrying capacity of UNI 14 at minimum height with 37 cm tray fitted is 59 kg and it's better to use the UNI 14 with minimum height as the UNI 4 with maximum height. The capacity could be increased by adding a 2nd set of clamps 2 kg." So the tray helps a little bit too.
  6. With Berlebach tripods the quoted maximum weight capacity is at the shortest height. Leg clamps slightly increase the capacity. So a pillar, as long as not too heavy is better than extending the legs.
  7. I'm trying to decide whether to buy a new Starlight Express Trius SX694 Pro or a used SXVR H694. Do the benefits, particularly of the re-chargeable Argon Filled imaging chamber but also the revised electronics and built-in hub (fewer cables), make it worth the extra cost? I'd be particularly interested to hear any comments on fogging/frosting during imaging with the SXVR-H694. Many thanks
  8. Thanks for that explanation. I had surmised from Wim that it wasn't a good idea but you have filled in the detail. I'll just use the filters separately, and as appropriate, use the NII as an additional channel. Perhaps as some stage I'll make the change to 3nm Ha.
  9. The reason is because rather than having two H alpha filters I have a H alpha 5nm and a NII 3nm. The suggested method was what you wrote i.e. H alpha 3nm = H alpha and H alpha 5nm - H alpha 3nm = NII. What I was asking about doing the reverse NII = NII (of course) but then H alpha 5nm - NII 3nm = H alpha.
  10. Wim Thanks for that. A far from simple process to get it right. Peter
  11. SBig used to supply Custom Scientific (CS) filters as standard and the filters are still being made in America. The are expensive too. I know that they are not in common usage these days but does anyone have experience with the 4.5nm versions, especially the SII?
  12. I've read posts suggesting subtracting H alpha 3nm from H alpha 5nm to separate the H Alpha and NII data. I apologise if this a silly suggestion but in the absence of having both bandwidth H alpha filters would a viable option be to instead subtract 3nm NII from 5nm H alpha?
  13. My charger is a Yu-Power YPC2A12. The old Pulsar Dome connection from Solar Panel to rotation motor unit is via a car-type connector but with an SAE type connection between the solar panel and the final connector. I just disconnect that and connect the charger. I did find though that the polarity was reversed so I bought a cheap gender changer which sorted that out.
  14. I don't suffer from condensation so I think that the space at the dome/walls junction allows enough ventilation. Not sure if it makes any difference but my floor is raised too, with gaps between the decking boards. I have a solar panel for my rotation battery (again its the old style dome) and even fitted a bigger one than Pulsar provided but with us often not getting a lot of sunlight in the winter I connect up a mains charger when I close down. As it's designed to also trickle charge I most often just leave it connected all the time.
  15. Looks really good. I took my locally made steel pier to a powder coater (does wheels etc.) and that has stayed rust free for years.
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