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About pmlogg

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    Star Forming
  1. Thanks for that explanation. I had surmised from Wim that it wasn't a good idea but you have filled in the detail. I'll just use the filters separately, and as appropriate, use the NII as an additional channel. Perhaps as some stage I'll make the change to 3nm Ha.
  2. The reason is because rather than having two H alpha filters I have a H alpha 5nm and a NII 3nm. The suggested method was what you wrote i.e. H alpha 3nm = H alpha and H alpha 5nm - H alpha 3nm = NII. What I was asking about doing the reverse NII = NII (of course) but then H alpha 5nm - NII 3nm = H alpha.
  3. Wim Thanks for that. A far from simple process to get it right. Peter
  4. SBig used to supply Custom Scientific (CS) filters as standard and the filters are still being made in America. The are expensive too. I know that they are not in common usage these days but does anyone have experience with the 4.5nm versions, especially the SII?
  5. I've read posts suggesting subtracting H alpha 3nm from H alpha 5nm to separate the H Alpha and NII data. I apologise if this a silly suggestion but in the absence of having both bandwidth H alpha filters would a viable option be to instead subtract 3nm NII from 5nm H alpha?
  6. My charger is a Yu-Power YPC2A12. The old Pulsar Dome connection from Solar Panel to rotation motor unit is via a car-type connector but with an SAE type connection between the solar panel and the final connector. I just disconnect that and connect the charger. I did find though that the polarity was reversed so I bought a cheap gender changer which sorted that out.
  7. I don't suffer from condensation so I think that the space at the dome/walls junction allows enough ventilation. Not sure if it makes any difference but my floor is raised too, with gaps between the decking boards. I have a solar panel for my rotation battery (again its the old style dome) and even fitted a bigger one than Pulsar provided but with us often not getting a lot of sunlight in the winter I connect up a mains charger when I close down. As it's designed to also trickle charge I most often just leave it connected all the time.
  8. Looks really good. I took my locally made steel pier to a powder coater (does wheels etc.) and that has stayed rust free for years.
  9. Just looked at mine and it has a flat rubber strip effectively filling the gap that can be seen on yours. The original Pulsar instructions show it, see the bottom left image on the second page of the attached. 2.7M OBSERVATORY INSTALLATION.pdf
  10. My Pulsar is one of the original models, just with a rope and pulley but I've certainly never had any rain get in at the top of the shutter. I will have a look before it gets dark. With your shutter being powered I would have expected that the microswitches would make it stop in the same position (open or shut) every time. I presume that you did not re-position them and that they are as the previous owner had them. You could perhaps ask the previous owner if he had any such issue. Another option would be to ask Pulsar.
  11. When I planned the electrics for my dome 11 years ago I decided, as a precaution, to house all double sockets in IP66 boxes and similarly for dimmer switches, timer socket for the dehumidifier, fixed power supplies for the mount, my main imager and other ac to dc adapters. I boxed in the pier with plywood, with a gap to prevent vibrations. That produced four wooden surfaces to screw components to. The cabling from the house all comes to the pier initially but then power, usb and networking cables all go under the decking floor to a desk area. I didn't want to alter the dome itself so I sandwiched one of the section joints with uprights and screwed plywood to that. White and Red lights, a 12V supply and more power points are attached to that, located under the fixed desk. One decking board is double hinged so that it can be lifted up, crane like, to access the cables. I've had no shortage of electric points. Now I have a monitor on an arm fixed to more wood, this time sandwiching the joint above the desk. It can rotate the monitor flat against the dome wall or move it out for convenience. The lamp shown in the picture is now mounted on that wood. The computer is in the house, under the stairs, with another screen , keyboard and mouse - that's the 'warm room'. The only thing I would have done differently would have been to have a larger diameter pipe for pulling more cables though e.g. usb3. I do have a wire to pull more through but not sure it wouldn't snag. The dome rotation is powered now but by 12V battery. After use it is recharged from the mains, although there is an external solar panel for recharging too.
  12. My understanding was that there were vibrational advantages to having a heavier weight closer than a lighter weight further out.
  13. I also enquired SBig recently about a camera issue. Initially they just said to send it back. When I told him that it was from the UK he gave me some things to check, including the external power supply and the usb cable. Running a short cable and from the 12V supply rather than the 240V one it seemed to be operating the shtter fine (his initial diagnosis). I've been waiting for a clear night to test further before deciding whether it needs to go to California. I would agree with using a courier to send the camera for a US repair. The Post Office did not have a clue and had none of the correct paperwork. UPS (I think it was) or DHL was spot on. I did get charged VAT on the repair cost - which involved new parts but that is what is supposed to happen.
  14. I find that sometimes my plastic pipe, which is much longer than yours, becomes flattened. That's how it looks when I have to empty the tank. I squeeze it back into shape and then it's fine for some time before having to do it again.
  15. I forgot to include the diagram of the pier base from that article. Here it is.
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