Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

  • Announcements



Advanced Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

576 Excellent


About cjdawson

  • Rank
    Sub Dwarf

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
  • Location
    Yorkshire UK
  1. Worst Astro Image Ever? - SOLVED!

    That's not the worst image ever. I've got one of M42, with all the things you reported, bad focus and tracking errors in both Alt and Az. Now that makes for a freaky image.
  2. can you believe this !!!

    I'm sure that I put it together correctly. The problem was the cheap plastic covers wouldn't stay on. Tasco was never an OK brand. I think they had the rejects from Celestron.
  3. for a tenner. I'd say give it a go. Have used stuff like that in my car. So I don't see why it won't work on your scope.
  4. can you believe this !!!

    This reminds me of the first scope that I had access too Tasco 114. £199.99 from argos. It went back after a week as it started falling apart. btw, Celestron did a 114 that looked identical.
  5. The approach that I'd take for this is to use use a laptop and astro camera setup. You can then have run something like sharpcap to display the images and update regularly. (even longer exposures) For power, the simple solution is to run the laptop from 12v which can be plugged into a power bank, lesuire battery, etc. The advantage of this setup as others already said is that you can run a projector. also if you want to get really complicated, there's nothing stopping you from connecting the laptop to a network and having another computer remote control (I use remote desktop for this). This would mean you could have the telescope setup outside, and give a presentation inside where it's warmer. Lots of flexibility, but also increases the complexity too.
  6. 2018 Quiz

    1. Because the world is flat 2. Because Aliens came down and put a probe where the sun doesn't shine. 3 - 10. If you believe 1 or 2, you should believe everything that everyone wrote down ever.
  7. 2018 Quiz

    A very vague guess that's so vague is could mean anything?
  8. Andromeda DSLR and focal reducer

    Using the image Here's my idiot's guide to PHD..... In the lower left corner there's a toolbar with buttons. 1. Press this to connect the mount, camera etc. 2. Press this to get the camera to start taking framing images. This will let you see what's being captured, adjust the focus, exposure time etc so that you get a good SNR. 3. Press this button to start guiding. PHD will take a few mins to calibrate (seen in the lower right corner) once that goes green it should be guiding.
  9. Andromeda DSLR and focal reducer

    For guiding in PHD, you shouldn't be using 5 min subs. Try something more along the lines of 1-3 seconds. All that you guide camera needs to do is capture a star, it doesn't need to be a long exposure. Any star that's close(ish) to your target will do. When it's guiding you'll get the graph build up as it shows the differences between the frames.
  10. Andromeda DSLR and focal reducer

    That's looking great. So let me get this straight, that's the output from DSS without any other processing? If so, would you be able to make the tiff or other uncompressed file available? There much be alot more data there than DSS is showing.
  11. £7 camera cooler

    Love it. I've got a project to build something similar. Hoping that the results are worth it. I've spent more than £7 already. Wish I'd seen this.
  12. Looking for help

    Found this in the PDF on the Flo website, So if you are using the AA batteries, I'd strongly suggest that you ditch them and use a mobile phone power bank instead. I'm thinking a powerful one like like this... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerCore-20100-Capacity-Technology-Black/dp/B00VJSGT2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510246409&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+16000 That should keep you going all night no matter what the weather.
  13. Zwo Peltier cooler

    Yep, it was useful. I'm going to use the neoprene insulation coat idea for sure. Might also extend it so that the cold plate that I make is also wrapped to help it be a little bit more efficient.
  14. Screen-mod Synguider2 (now added PT-2 mod)

    The flip mirror that I use is one of these... http://www.365astronomy.com/Skywatcher-1.25-Flip-Mirror-for-Astrophotography-and-Precice-Focusing.html There's no light loss as the mirror flips out of the way. I think the thing that you are wondering about that splits the light path is an off axis guider.
  15. Screen-mod Synguider2 (now added PT-2 mod)

    For me the problems wasn't getting focus, as I had it and an eyepiece plugged into a flip mirror. This made getting starts centered easy, also the eyepiece was calibrated to be par focal - I did that when I managed to get it to point at Vega etc and double checked whenever I managed to get something. This was connected to an ST-80, so I'm talking F/5 80mm scope, so really shouldn't have been a problem. Having switched to PHD2, I don't think I'll be switching back. The Starlight express/laptop combo is much better. I can see the star field. I can adjust the focus and the exposure as I please, and can see the work that the software is doing. In addition to that, with my other kit, I'm working on getting plate solving working as well. So, this is a complete change from the way I was imaging a year ago. Yay for the learning curve (again)