Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_the_milky_way.thumb.jpg.dbd8b15e81d11e9303c8d6ef1898ac08.jpg

cjdawson

Advanced Members
  • Content count

    1,399
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

664 Excellent

4 Followers

About cjdawson

  • Rank
    Sub Dwarf

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://cjdawson.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Astrophotography
  • Location
    Yorkshire UK
  1. what I mean is that as my scope is an SCT on a fork mount, the polemaster won't work, as it would have to point up the middle of the main optics.
  2. cjdawson

    Skymap 12 comets U.R.L

    That still going? I stopped using Skymap Pro a few years ago after it was announced that there wasn't going to be any more major upgrades to it. http://www.skymap.com/smp_order.htm Just looked on the website and it is indeed still kicking round. But version 12 has been out for a very long time now. Not sure what the comets url is though. Was probably an internet glitch?
  3. cjdawson

    Glare in my first moon shots

    If you use BackyardEOS, they say to put the camera into liveview, then zoom that to 5x, as that's pixel for pixel!
  4. Hiya. I've got the licenced version, however, as you just said that it needs to point to the pole, I'm not going to be able to have any luck with it. My camera is too long for the it to fit into the fork mount when pointing towards the pole.
  5. Hi all. Thought this might be a useful thread, for people just starting out with Imaging and trying to get that all important Polar Alignment right. With my mount there is no possibility of getting a polemaster to work. (It's a fork mount) Also once I attach my camera cooler, there won't be space to point the camera at Polaris. So, this limits my options when it comes to polar alignment. That said, it also gives me a fantastic opportunity to try something different. different? What I did in the past was remove the camera gear, point the scope to polaris, get everything spot on, then run through the scopes alignment process, which then corrected things for me. However, it was never as good as a drift align. As I'm completely changing the way that I use my scope these days, I thought I'd try out another technique, drift alignment or something equivalent. I have several tools for image capturing at my disposal.... 1. Alignmaster 2. Sequence Generator Pro 3. SharpCap 4. Nebulosity 5. FireCapture 6. PHD2 What I'm looking to do is find the least painful method of getting that all important polar alignment. Ideally, I'd like to leave the camera on the scope, and not take 3 hours to get the alignment process done. So far, I've never used any of the about tools to help me with my polar alignment, so it'll be interesting to see what I end up with. I can also see a bun fight over the methods that people use and thought, it would be a good topic for people to share opinions and experiences. So, buns at the ready and over to you.
  6. cjdawson

    Astronomical Darkness

    I'm planning on getting out tonight. Should be good for having a go on the moon. Also later on when it's "twilight" should be good enough for me to work on my Polar Alignment technique. Did it manually before, now I'm looking to do it using cameras. Think this might be a useful thread to run in it's own right.
  7. cjdawson

    Teamviewer

    Just a really silly question. So far everyone has been talking about Remote Desktop Solutions. Are the two computers able to communicate via the lan cable between them? A UTP Patch cable is intended to connect a device (computer) to a switch (or hub) Then another patch cable connects to the other device. If you have this arrangement, then there shouldn't be a problem with using either WiFI or wired connections. If however you are trying to connect the two devices without using a switch a UTP Patch cable won't work, you'll need a cross over cable instead. Then there's some network config stuff you'll have to do, and then you'll be able to connect run the remote desktop software. In this setup, I'd recommend trying to down down the VNC Route rather than TeamViewer. If you've got a hub/switch/router etc, and both machines can have internet access, then Wifi, Wired connection should be possible in any combination.
  8. Funny you should mention those. I got a couple of screw in power plugs and sockets for a project that I'm working on.
  9. I have a Meade LX-90 and has a similar issue, the 12v connector is rubbish. how I solved it was to create a power distribution box. Which also allows me to power 2 dew heaters and a few other bits and pieces on the scope. This resulted in my being able to build a short cable that runs from the box to the mount. This cable has no stress on it and stays in place nicely.
  10. cjdawson

    Glare in my first moon shots

    from your description the glare is definitely light bouncing between the barlow and the sensor. If you remove the glass from the barlow (don't do it) the glare would dissappear, put it back and you'll get the glare back. The way to solve this, if you really want to use a barlow is to use a different barlow. I've got a couple of them, a short tube, and a long tube. This changes how the barlow brings light together. There's also another thing that the spacing between the barlow and the camera sensor is important. If it's wrong, you'll get artifacts in your image, like the glare that you are talking about. Maybe try an extention tube between the barlow and the camera sensor?
  11. Hi I'm probably too late to jump into this conversation, so I'll keep it short. If you haven't ordered the scope. I'd highly recommend an 8" scope with a 2000mm focal length (I've got a Meade LX-90 that I've had for 20 years. The views on the moon are so good that honestly, I've been taking them for granted a bit too much. Your dad will be in heaven with something of that size. The other thing to be aware of it's the f/ratio. my Lx-90 is an F/10 scope, so for lunar and planets, that's fairly fast optics. This helps to give a bright contrasty view. There are times when I'd need to add a ND (Moon filter) to dim the surface down when it's so bright that it actually uncomfortable to look at! The general thing is that big, long focal lengths are good for the moon and planets. The wider the apeture of the scope the more contrast that you will get from the scope, and the brighter the image, and the more powerful eyepiece that you can use.
  12. cjdawson

    Moon clear , Jupiter fuzzy

    OOPS! I got it backward. d'oh, so yeah the 130, should be capable of 260x under perfect conditions. (Planet near Zenith, good seeing and transparency on a still night in the middle of nowhere) I should have realised that I'd got it backwards as my 200mm scope is capable of 400x, but I've never run it visually at anything over 250x visually so far. (never felt the need to do so, saturn simply blew me away at that power) The rule of thumb is normally 50x per inch, which (d'oh, see earlier) is 2x per mm. But yeah, in reality, you don't get 50x per inch, so running somewhere between 25x and 40x is probably more useful. I like the ability to get up to 40-50x for that rare perfect night.
  13. cjdawson

    Moon clear , Jupiter fuzzy

    Hi @Rufus357, Welcome to SGL Looks to me by the questions that you are asking that you are new to the trials and tribulations of telescope ownership. Firstly, let me say welcome to the family. I'm sure that we'll all help you up that steep learning curve, and in a few months you'll be having a fantastic time. Please remember that on SGL that there is only one stupid question - the one that is not asked! So ask away, the more questions, the more you'll learn. On to replying to your post. As JOC said, juptier is low in the sky, this means that there's more astmosphere, which makes the image a bit more fuzzy. I've got the spec of your scope up on FLO's website, and done some envelope maths of the eyepiece magnifications to help you get started.... 20mm eyepiece - 32.5x 10mm eyepiece - 65x 20mm with barlow - 65x (32.5x doubled) 10mm eyepiece - 130x (65x doubled) Strictly speaking, there will be some people that will take huge offence to what I just did there. We tend not to talk about magnification, so much as power, eyepiece size, f/ration and focal length. Which can be very confusing to those just starting out. Using a rule of thumb, your scope has a 130mm apeture. so divide that by 2 and you end up with 65. This is the maximum magnification that you should get on a fantastic night. So your 10mm eyepiece, will top out of your scopes capabilities. However, it's not quite true! It's a rule of thumb. There are other things that come into play that effect the result. The weather, has the biggest effect. There are two things that people talk about, the seeing and the transparency. Then the transparency is good, this means that there's not alot of "stuff" in the air. (Dust, vapour, gasses, etc) the more transparent it is the easier it is to see through. I'm sure you've seen the good days when you can see that radio/tv mast that's 30 miles away, but the next day you can't. Then we have "seeing", this is when the light is bouncing around dew to turbulance in the air. The more steady the air, the better the seeing conditions are and the more stable and image that you'll have. Those fantastic nights that I mentioned are the rare ones when the seeing is good (nice stable image with no movement) and good transparency (no stuff in the air blocking the light) The next thing I'm going to assume is that your telescope is brand new. It's a newtonian type telescope, and that means it will need to be columnated. Yes, it should have been done at the factory, and I'm pretty sure it was. However, telescopes are delicate instruments and it's highly likely that the columniation has been knocked. The way to tell is find a bright star, and defocus the telescope, you'll end up with a ring of light when the start is out of focus. What you need to look for is the placement of the hole in the middle of the ring. If it's perfectly in the middle, great you are good. If it's off to one side, then your telescope will need a tweak. Long post isn't it? Here's why I've gone to all this trouble. To get the best views from your telescope, you need firstly to make sure it's columnated correctly, then don't over power it, and remember that some nights are better than others. So, why was the moon good and Jupiter not so good? Firstly, the 2*Mag per MM of aperture rule goes out of the window when it comes to the moon. You can run higher and still have good views. Jupiter is at mag -2.1 and the moon (full) is -12.6 The sun is -26.7. So what this means is that the moon is about 5 times brighter than Juptier. That means 5 times the light, so it's easier to see. Give yourself time and patience, you'll get better at looking at Jupiter (observing it) spend time just looking around it, let your eye adjust, pick out the cloud bands, the fuzzy astmosphere edge of the planet. The moons of Juptier and just remember that the view you have is much much better than Galileo had when he made the discoveries.
  14. cjdawson

    usb dew warmers

    Just to be clear when I said really hot. I meant is was much warmer that I expected. It’ll certainly be good enough to keep the dew off in a wide field setup. I got mine to run on my camera when I’m taking timelapses using my slider. In that scenario, I need to run the camera for about 6 hours at a time, and cannot touch it during the sequence - otherwise the movement will ruin the sequence.
  15. cjdawson

    usb dew warmers

    I've got one that I'm intending to use with my DSLR Lens's for long exposure wide field work (time lapse, etc) For what I need the one I have will work well. If anything it'll get too warm, but I don't have to have it turned on all the time. Also I can turn on after the session starts without disturbing the camera. Don't know if they would be to the job of working on a 80mm scope though.
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.