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About smr

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    Star Forming

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  1. Hi all, I was given this telescope a few years ago when my Mum and Dad were clearing some stuff out from their old house, I remember using it a couple of times as a kid, so around 25 years ago this would be. Just wondered if anyone knows anything about it and how it might stack up for visual? I've just taken it out of my loft today and haven't used it in, well, 25 years. I'm guessing it must be quite old, I think it was given to us by my late Grandad.
  2. That's great, thanks. The clouds have rolled in so just doing some darks now, and then I'll take some flats. So DSS will automatically know which darks are for which lights, and which flats are for which lights?
  3. Hi all, For the first time I am imaging the same object again, to gather more data. And whilst I'm imaging I may as well ask what I know nothing about... I'm taking more images, albeit tonight I am taking subs of 1 minute unguided as opposed to 90 seconds unguided. I just feel like I am throwing away too many frames at 90 seconds, so until I get guiding I'll stick to 60 seconds. Last week I gathered data on Pleiades with around 2-3 hours of 90 second subs. When imaging again what is the procedure with the new, added light frames? Do I just put them into the same folder as the lights I have already collected and stack them all again ? What about calibration frames? I took flats, darks and bias frames last time I imaged this object, do I need to take them again for this session, and if so do I throw all of the calibration frames together with the last session's calibration frames? Hope I'm making sense and appreciate any replies.
  4. smr

    California nebula.

    modded dslr? that is a superb image. 700D is a great dslr. i had one for my first camera before i sold it to my old man.
  5. Lovely image and lovely colours. I have yet to image the Horsehead and Flame but it's probably my favourite DSO, that, M42 and the Rosette Nebula, at the moment. The colours in your image are very nice and how I like to see that region. I think I could do with a light pollution filter anyhow, and just see what I can achieve without modifying my DSLR first, if after imaging the HH and Flame and the Rosette I find that it's lacking then I guess it'll be time to look at either a dedicated astronomy camera, which I hear is another learning curve altogether, or modifying a second hand DSLR. I guess.
  6. So it's not just about colour then? Ha sensitivity also determines the detail and structure in nebulae ? If so than that would sway me towards buying a cheaper DSLR and having it modified. The only thing is that from what I have seen of images taken with modified DSLRs the nebulas come out just red and any other colours seem completely suppressed. Can anyone share some modded images that show differently ? It would be frustrating that I have a DSLR which is ISO invariant in the Canon 80D but I wouldn't be able to get that modded as I need a DSLR for daytime photography. I can't seem to find the Canon 80D's Ha transmittance anywhere.
  7. Hi, I bought my HEQ5 Pro second hand, (although mint condition I must say), it is the new version of the mount with the white and green trim, but I didn't get the strap that attaches the controller base to the tripod leg. Does anyone know where I can buy one?
  8. The reason I don't want to modify my DSLR is because I also use it for other photography. As well as this I've seen quite a lot of astro photos where nebulaes are just red and no other colours. There's also an article written by Roger Clarke where he explains why not all stock cameras need modifying. I can confirm this with my Canon 80D after imaging the Soul Nebula and I was able to process plenty of red nebulosity. http://www.clarkvision.com/articles/do_you_need_a_modified_camera_for_astrophotography/
  9. Thanks for the replies. I image from class 6 Bortle skies. On Friday night I was imaging with ISO 200 and 90 second subs and the histogram peak wasn't far off the LHS, probably only about 15-20 percent in. And the image I did take came out ok. That said I do want to get into guiding quite quickly so I can expose for longer and therein will be the problem with LP. I've just had a look at the D2 filter on FLO. I like the way that it's meant to block LED lighting as my village has virtually replaced all the sodium lamps with LED ones instead, but they say in the description optimised for modded cameras. I have no intention of modding my DSLR, would this filter still work well or are there better alternatives? £175 is probably do-able, especially if I can find one second hand for cheaper, but I don't really want to be spending over £200 for an LP filter - around £150 is more what I am looking at.
  10. Data here if anyone wants to see what they can do. I'm very much a beginner at processing so would love to see your results if you want to have a go. Pleiades WOZ73.tif
  11. Hi all, It was around this time last year that I first started in Astrophotography and bought a Star Adventurer. Last night, after buying my HEQ5 Pro in September, I finally set about imaging with it for the first time, star alignment and setting the mount up sounding quite daunting, with the SA it was basically polar align, aim, and image. So things like time zone, long, lat, date, star alignment were a bit daunting and all alien to me. I had however polar aligned before and what really impressed me was how solid and smooth it was with the HEQ5 Pro - the adjustment bolts so smooth and precise and everything just so stable and smooth. Polar alignment was done quite swiftly, wasn't as accurate as it could have been but clouds had been forecast and I needed to get my head around everything - luckily I had already had help with what my co-ordinates should be thanks to a fellow SGL member some months ago, otherwise I'd have spent hours trying to work it out I'm sure! It was also my first time with a refractor, I recently bought my first - the William Optics ZenithStar 73 - and the build and finish is everything you read about them, absolutely superb. But what really amazed me more than anything was the focuser - coming from a telephoto lens to a telescope focuser is a monumental difference - the precision is amazing. I've never had a scope before so I can't compare the Z73's R&P focuser to anything else but it was absolutely solid in holding my DSLR, the markings on the draw tube indicated that the scope hadn't slipped whatsoever all night, but I don't see how it could either, it's just rock solid. A really nice feature of the Z73 is that you can rotate your imaging camera 360 degrees, so it makes framing a target really easy. The two star alignment wasn't without it's hiccups - for some reason the mount started slewing to the opposite side of the sky, so I checked a few setup settings, redid some, same thing, in the end I just switched the mount off, turned it back on and it slewed to the first star. Another great feature of the HEQ5 Pro I really like is the ability to then use the hand controller to center the star or DSO etc. After what was probably a not so perfect alignment I chose M45 to slew to - the mount slewed to it, just off slightly, so I centred it with the hand controller. That was pretty much it, made sure it was framed nicely, and began imaging. So here's my first image with my new rig. 1 hour and 45 minutes exposure time, 1m30 subs, bias, darks and flats. Processed in PS and Lightroom.
  12. smr

    Flat frames

    Ok thanks. I have loaded my calibration frames into DSS, which stacking mode should I use for darks, flats and bias, median or kappa? I usually use Kappa Sigma Clipping for my Light frames.
  13. smr

    Flat frames

    Z73. It's ok I've just used the laptop screen method. Took about 30 images with the data midway on the histogram, AV mode same ISO as the lights. My first night with a refractor and an HEQ5 Pro and everything has gone really well. I've gone from a telephoto lens on a SA Mount taking only lights to star aligning on my HEQ5, and taking lights, flats, darks and bias frames!
  14. Hi all, I'm currently gathering some dark frames but also need some flat frames too. However I don't want to leave my mount and telescope outside over night. I've never taken flat frames before. What is the best way of doing this? Could use a laptop screen with notepad open?

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