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smr

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About smr

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    Astronomy, Computers, Football, Formula 1
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    Leicestershire

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  1. Thanks, it's splitting the data correctly that I'm not sure about though. In Photoshop if I open the stacked image, and click on Channels > Split Channels, it opens the R, G and B as Greyscale images in separate tabs.
  2. No it doesn't create a narrowband image, if I stretch the stacked image it's just red. I'd like to be able to create bi colour images though, for instance like the Rosette where the outer nebulosity is red and the inner nebulosity has that lovely blue look. It's possible but there's just no clear method described anywhere as to how to go about this workflow in PS. The frustrating thing is that I'm pretty sure it's possible.
  3. Thanks for the reply. Yes there does seem to be a lot of different tutorials and techniques but none so much on just doing things in PS. As I said I did find one in PS which is exactly what I need but the tutorial jumps around too much and I need to follow everything completely with clear explanations on each step, it's no good making a video tutorial and then skipping ahead and not explaining why a layer which was there before you fast forwarded the video is not there now! This is why when I do tutorials I literally explain every single mouse click and don't fast forward anything. Is
  4. Anyone? I can't believe there isn't a clear tutorial on how to do this in Photoshop. It all seems to be either in APP or Pixinsight. I'm pretty sure it can be done in Photoshop as I have found one tutorial on it but it jumps around far too much and is very confusing(infuriating!).
  5. Hi, I'm trying to go for a tri or bi colour image with my first light data from my 2600MC Pro and Optolong L-eNhance Filter but I'm not sure on the work flow. I use Photoshop only. I have downloaded Annie's Actions. In PS I split the R, G and B channels and then stretch them all a bit and save them as individual images. I then reopen the stacked data as is (rgb) and stretch that. Then using Annie's Actions there is a bi colour or Hubble palette action. It asks for Ha, SII, OIII data, which out ot
  6. Hi, I'm trying to go for a tri or bi colour image with my first light data from my 2600MC Pro and Optolong L-eNhance Filter but I'm not sure on the work flow. I use Photoshop only. I have downloaded Annie's Actions. In PS I split the R, G and B channels and then stretch them all a bit and save them as individual images. I then reopen the stacked data as is (rgb) and stretch that. Then using Annie's Actions there is a bi colour or Hubble palette action. It asks for Ha, SII, OIII data, which out ot the split R, G, B do I assign to each filter? Or if its more doable I would lik
  7. You could try uninstalling and reinstalling PHD2. I did the other day and guiding has been great, I created a new profile and let PHD2 determine the Mount speed, entered Camera, focal length, and calibrated on a star S-S/E and 20 or so deg of the Celestial Equator. Guiding has been really good since.
  8. Is that as long as the focuser adjustments are small ? I mean if you have to refocus for temperature fluctuation throughout an imaging session you shouldn't have to take flats between each focus adjustment ? Just one set of flats at the end of the night ?
  9. Oh yes another problem I had last night was the mount behaving erratically, or basically, not responding at all. I tried slewing to a bright star to focus and it wasn't having it, then started slewing off to random parts of the Sky.... fortunately I figured out what it was quite quickly - I hadn't tightened the Dec up at all, completely loose, after balancing. In the 3-4 years I've been doing Astrophotography I've never once forgotten to tighten the dec clutch! Yes with regard to focusing, forgot to mention that 1:1 image is good, I don't really use the magnifying tool in APT other than t
  10. Thanks for the replies. With regards to Flats, as I don't remove the imaging train from my mount ( I carry it in with the scope attached ) is it ok to take flats the next day if everything stays the same (Camera orientation as well) ?
  11. I bought this Table yesterday for £12, reduced from £40! Well chuffed It's absolutely ideal for astro. It's a High Gear camping table, on sale at Go Outdoors if anyone is interested.
  12. I would image DSOs which aren't close to the Moon. I'm imaging the Soul Nebula at the moment as it's on the other side of the Sky from the Moon, although I don't think I'd bother if I didn't have my L-eNhance filter.
  13. Partly the reason why I jumped over to Cooled OSC from DSLR instead of straight to Mono. I thought there would be a learning curve with OSC and there is. There's nothing wrong with jumping straight into Mono, and if forgoing the filters it's essentially the same process, that said I have found a jump between going from DSLR to Cooled OSC, and more of a jump than I expected. I spent the first night expecting everything to be really easy and get some good hours of M42 for first light. No, instead I spent the night trying to understand why I couldn't see any stars to focus on whilst watching
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