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About smr

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  1. with the new sensor technology in crop sensor cameras like my 80D I don't think theres any need to go full frame, add to that dark current suppression and stacking you dont really need full frame imo, and the advantage of crop is that you get more reach.
  2. I actually might upgrade to the HEQ5Pro and buy a telescope for imaging purposes, it'd be a lot easier just putting the guidescope on top of the telescope too wouldn't it. But for portability I'd still want to use the SA so if the ED50 is ok weight wise for that then I'll buy one of them when they're back in stock.
  3. Do you think the Evoguide 50ED would not be suitable for the SA then?
  4. Hi all, I'd like to start taking 2 or 3 minute exposures with my Star Adventurer and therefore would like to buy a guidescope and guidecam. Any recommendations as to what to get would be greatly welcome.
  5. I'd never modify my 80D either, I was wondering if it's worth getting a cheaper DSLR just for astrophotography and modifying that though.
  6. Very nice images. I like your PP on them, and I too prefer the more subtle editing. I agree that the colours in Roger's photo look a tad over done, I'd pull them back slightly if my own, but that's not to take away from what fantastic images they are as is. I was astounded more than anything at what a stock DSLR from the 7D2 era onwards can achieve though more than anything.
  7. Referring to this article: http://www.clarkvision.com/articles/do_you_need_a_modified_camera_for_astrophotography/ These photos were taken with a stock 7D Mark 2 Camera. I have a similar Camera with even more recent sensor technology insofar as the Canon 80D, therefore do I need it modifying in terms of Ha sensitivity ? I'd like your opinions please as I may be missing something from Roger's take on it. "Modifying digital cameras is not necessary to obtain great astrophotos. Many stock cameras have good hydrogen-alpha response, e.g. recent Canon DSLRs. More important than a modified cameras is proper post processing methods that will bring out and not suppress hydrogen alpha emission, and cameras with good sensitivity and very low thermal dark current. The best digital camera for deep sky astrophotography that I have evaluated has good sensitivity, including hydrogen-alpha, and amazingly low dark current is the Canon 7D Mark II 20-megapixel digital camera. A great full frame digital camera for astrophotography is the Canon 6D 20-megapixel digital camera. The advantage of a stock digital camera in astrophotography is that the color balance is close to that of the human eye, and shows compositional differences better. Modified digital cameras are too sensitive to hydrogen alpha emission, making scenes containing hydrogen too red, swamping colors from other compositions. Often this shows in amateur astrophotos as dominantly red. The choice of course is personal. I prefer images with more colors to show more processes and chemistry. I believe such images are more interesting, so I only use stack digitalcameras for my astrophotography."
  8. Ah ok that would make sense. Are there any easier targets to image? Bearing in mind I don't really know how to star hop properly just yet, I can sort of guide myself to a rough location in the sky with Stellarium and the stars. I guess it would be a lot easier if I had a Go-To...
  9. In Lightroom/PS etc. do you mean ? The histogram on the back of the camera shows the proper read out for whichever shooting mode you're in though doesn't it?
  10. Thanks for the replies guys, the other night was not last night but the night before. Although I did try again last night and went for two minute subs just to experiment really and see how long I could go for unguided. As it turns out that's probably a bit too demanding, or at least with a 250mm focal length, then again it was a bit 50/50 over a dozen subs as to whether the stars were trailing or nice and round. I guess that must be the wind. Yes I shoot from my back garden and there is quite a bit of LP I guess. I did manage to pull out the flame with some careful curve and level adjustment and I can then see a very faint outline of the horse head. The night before last when I shot the moon was half and not far away from the Nebula. Last night when I shot again it was quite a bit fuller but further away, I get your points about shooting with no moon and from a dark sky location though. I just wondered more if exposing each sub with the histogram peak 75 percent over was the reason why I couldn't extract much from the data at all really. I always shoot RAW - does the histogram not accurately display for this then? DSLR is a Canon 80D and the lens attached is a 55-250mm EFS Canon.
  11. Hi all I think I have got myself a bit confused about exposure times and settings. The other night i had a go at capturing the horsehead nebula with my unmodified dslr. I figured that i would go for as long as possible subs on the basis that more light = more data. So i went for 90 second at iso 640 as well as 60 second iso 800 subs. On both the histogram peak was past 50 percent and on the the next band along so say towards 75 percent. The resulting stacked image is very washed out looking and bright grey. But if i had gone with a lower iso and tried moving the histogram to a third from the left it wouldnt have been able to pick out the faint nebulosity would it? Is it just matter of how ever long you expose for making sure the peak is a third or 25 percent away from the left hand side? Even if it means using an iso of 100 on a 60 second exposure?
  12. First Astrophotography Image

    Thanks very much guys, it's my Birthday today so the clear sky last night was the best present I could've asked for. It was also my first attempt at aligning Polaris and I found it quite easy actually. For two months since I bought my SA mount I hadn't attempted it as it was all a bit overwhelming so I was surprised at how easy I found it. I didn't want to go for exposures longer than a minute though as I wasn't confident in how well aligned it was. The exposure is around 50 minutes x 1min subs. All lights only. My equipment is a Manfrotto MT055CXPro3 Carbon Fibre tripod Star Adventurer Canon 80D 55-250mm lens at 250mm.
  13. Hi guys, Last night I took my first DSO image and spent today processing it. Hope you like it. Orion Nebula by Joel Spencer, on Flickr
  14. Imaging with a Star Adventurer

    Hi guys, Here's my first DSO image taken last night. Ok for a first attempt ? Orion Nebula by Joel Spencer, on Flickr