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SteveBz

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About SteveBz

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  1. Hi Robin, Thanks for this. Here's an update. I wasn't sure which stars were which so I took a handful of stars from Auriga. All about 50 exposures, then stacked in Siril and finally, I stretched the spectrum in Gimp. Here's the result for 4 Aur: You can see three Balmer lines quite clearly here. Here is the graph from RSpec, which also shows them (I think I've truncated the O-O lines at 762nm). I haven't quite worked out to keep the scale between two spectra so I can just do the zero degrees line. Thanks Steve.
  2. Hi People, I just wanted to ask for your feedback on this spectrum of Capella taken with a borrowed SA100. I've ditched the SW80 for a Bresser 114mm Newtonian with a focal length of 500mm which piggy-backs my main scope. It's much easier to focus. Sadly, the camera turns out to be a DSI III colour, not the mono, so there is some distortion because of the Bayer matrix. Here I took 50 images of Capella at 2 secs and stacked and cropped with Siril. The distance to the sensor is about 50 mm (I've used a 20mm extender). In the hour or so of clear skies last night I popped out to d
  3. Yes, and I didn't guide either. But If I switch back and forth between imaging and spectroscopy, I have to set up and align each time. I was trying to have two parallel scopes and be able to choose on the night whether to image or take spectra. If I have to switch over each time, then it takes half the evening (ie half the available viewing time) and we have so little time at the moment, it's a real heart-break to waste that time. Maybe I could find a cheap Newtonian like one of those little 76mm ones and mount it in place of the SW80 and still run parallel scopes. In fact I do have
  4. You always give such thorough and great answers. This answer especially. So my plan of action should be: 1 - Revert to 50mm. 2 - Switch the scopes (sadly, if I do this, I have to decommission my Orion Thin OAG). 3 - Investigate the DSI III camera driver (there has indeed been quite a long discussion about it recently about NOT debayering the colour version, I wonder if they've got the 'not' in the wrong place). I can get rid of the debayering problem by binning, but that reduces the resolution of the image, however, it buys me time while I do the other actions. Thank
  5. Hi Guys, Following on from our last conversation, the DIY spectrometer went totally wrong!! So I'm now testing a Star Analyser 100. Here are some results and I don't really feel I've got the best out of them. Could you guys comment, please? The set up is a SW80 with a DSI III pro - mono. Sensor has 1360 x1024 by 6.45 μm pixels. It also has some marks on the sensor. I set it up at both 30mm distance and 50 mm from SA100 to the sensor. These two are Bet-Cas and Del-Cas at 50 mm: Bet-Cas Del-Cas Del-Cas (RSpec binned) Potentially I worry that I am
  6. I tried RSPEC. Do you guys agree with this?
  7. So I got out last night to get some spectra of Bet-Cas. Here's the .jpg & .NEF (Nikon Raw) file. I can just about see some bands visually, but when I convert to .FIT and open in vspec, it's saturated. Not sure what's causing that. You can see that the right-hand side it quite well focused and the left-hand side goes into a fishtail as you said. Looking visually, so can see about three bands spaced about right in the blue end of the spectrum for H-Beta, H-Gamma and H-Delta, but I can't process that. The other thing is that DSS stacking doesn't seem to work when the stars a
  8. Nice. It's already in a box. Mine isn't. I used this one: Mini DC Motor Speed Control Driver Board 3V-35V 5A PWM Controller / LED dimmer | eBay
  9. Sorry, checked again. Typo. Yellow, Purple, Black, Black.
  10. Dave, I'm going to add one more point. I did buy a professional dew heater and it's much hotter than any of the DIY dew heaters I made. So I think I wouldn't worry. This one here with 8 resistors is quite cool in comparison. The other ones I made with 1 resistor / cm are about the same as the professional one. Steve,
  11. So I used Nichrome wire for my earlier ones and they don't really cut it. The parallel resistors are much better. I do use those cheap PWM controllers from China to control the temp, but it works fine without too. The nice thing about parallel resistors is that you can always trim to length and reuse the cut-off resistors for the next one. I have one for my secondary mirror, one for the primary opening one for the focuser and one for the guide-scope.
  12. *** Part 2 *** Here you need some duct tape (mine is called Duck), and some leftover black material left over from flocking your Newtonian. Or anything else. 11) Layout the tape and hold it down: 12) Lay your heater on the tape: 13) And wrap it: 14) Use your left over flocking and cut a similar size piece to the tape: 15) Remove the sticky backing 16) and wrap 17) Shape it: Now it's ready for testing: 18) I knocked up a quick test rig with a 12v supply, which I'll use later as a hub: 1
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