Dr_Ju_ju

And it looks like its getting closer, as there is Mac Beta that supports FITS files 14 hours ago, anon2 said: AP beta 1.9 notes include: - Added a new “Astrophotography Stack” persona which allows you to combine dark frames, light frames, bias frames, flat frames and dark flat frames then stack them. FITS images are also supported. So far only in the Mac version, but we can hope that it will make its way into the Windows beta soon

If only it would handle FITS files natively..... There is a thread running on their forum (FITS file format - Affinity on Desktop Questions (Mac and Windows) - Affinity | Forum (serif.com)) but as yet no response As soon as it's added in, it will probably the perfect tool....

Do they publish the specification of the control interface ?? if so then it should be possible to build a simple control system, using an Arduino Nano etc. and then 3D print an adaptor.

I found that condensation can get into the sensor cavity and sometimes gets deposited onto the sensor. It's easy to clean up with a little, Baader wonder fluid & cloth. You may also need to dry out the desiccant tablets, I use a microwave oven, just don't mix up the internal and external tablets as they are different sizes !!

From what I can see on the Spec's, it's just got the one set of encoders. If the mount is stationary ? you're driving it using the handset, then as long as you have a good PA, and have at least done one iteration of the alignment routine, then it should be pretty good at getting on target. FYI, on my AZEQ6 I've always had the encoder disabled, but then I also use Plate solving to ensure target accuracy

FYI, the files were updated again today (Weds) i.e. Hi Julian in terms of the temperature probe3 issue,channel 3 would only occur upon a reset of the controller when it was changed to use the temperature probe3. I have updated the code now such that if the ch3 mode is changed to temperature probe3 from any other mode, then there is no need for a controller reset, and the code now invokes a search for the temperature probe3. I have also finetuned the way that temperature requests and readings are handled for ch3. Thank you for pointing the issues out. You will also note that I have changed the firmware configuration, hopefully to make this simpler. This configuration is in the file controllerconfig.h and is explained in detail on the new pdf. There are also quite a few other changes that occured in porting the code to the new configuration. Another improvement relates to the saving of changed data (in previous firmware this may not have occured depending on the type of change). All changes now invoke a 30s wait delay before changes are written to EEPROM. If you find any issues, please let me know, regards Robert

Make sure you download\install\use the latest code, updated earlier today, both Windows App & Arduino, as I found a few 'features'....

You NEVER release the mount clutches after the initial setup.... I'm afraid you'll have to put up with the noise....

For all of mine, I run them 'headless' with a separate display & switch box, which I can plug in as needed, it also means that there's less light pollution around the scope....

If you're willing to pay a bit more, they will also populate the board with components etc. to your specification....

Have you tried just applying a 'dry' heated soldering iron, as I found just applying heat to the holes, removed a small amount of the 'tinning' solder allowing the 10A 1N5822 diodes to be mounted ok... Also, I found it best to keep one leg straight, in-line, & the using pliers, form a U-bend for the other leg. If you want I can post some pickies to make it more clear....

I'm afraid to say, you get what you pay for, and this device is not intended for the use you wish to put it to (there are some really scathing reviews on it)..... If you wanted a step up from the Raspberry Pi, then I'd suggest something like the Odroid XU4 (https://www.odroid.co.uk/hardkernel-odroid-xu4) or the Pine Rock64 (https://www.pine64.org/devices/single-board-computers/rock64/) which can natively run all the same software as the Pi, but has a lot more balls to it with....

More Info required e.g. what mount ? is this a permanent\semi-permanent set up ? on a pier or legs ? if on legs have you tried moving (rotating) the legs ?

I believe it would be the same as a model I just happen to have about my person, i.e.: which is auto sensing, look at the way the input is shown i.e. 100-240VAC, so no internal switch, but there is a fuse

There is also a terminal cover available from Mean Well i.e. https://www.meanwell-web.com/en-gb/cover-for-terminal-blocks-d-id-60-ned-t-75-rd-85-tbc--07 or if you're able you can easily design & print one e.g.

FYI, you can get resettable blade fuses e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Circuit-Breaker-Blade-Fuse-12V-24V-Resettable-5-30A-Marine-Rally-Automotive/321268071405 or even these panel mounting types that replace the cartridge fuses https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Resettable-Thermal-circuit-breaker-fuse-available-in-5-10-15-20-30A-35A/142027504609

If you already have mains power to the obsy, then forget about any batteries, unless you want to ensure power in the event of main failure (but that would also require additional kit e.g. Power Inverter.) Don't worry about power supply running expense, as it will only incur big costs when actually doing loads of work (high current draw) else it's just trickling along...

For a 10" coverage, and something that fills the viewing circle, you're probably looking at an A3 size panel.... As my my EL panel isn't as bright as an LED panel, I can just put the panel on all my scopes from the ED80 up to the 250 newt. I have tried an LED panel, but don't use it, as LED's produce uneven illumination, made worse when the light output is reduced...

I run all my home garden system components i.e. computer, mount, cameras (3 off), hubs (2 off), focusers (2 off), dew controller etc. all off the 600w pc power supply, with no issues... Personally, & dependent on the dew controller electronics, I'd just go for a 10A switched mode supply e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-Charger-Monitors-Equipments-Connector/dp/B07JM7P3WZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2X5M96QJCSNV9 or one of the 'LED' power supplies that are used for 3D printers, looking for a good brand like Meanwell....

If your after a flat, even illumination, that isn't too bright and works ok for all filters, then have a look for an Electroluminescent panel e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=electroluminescent+panel&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&LH_PrefLoc=1&_fsrp=1&rt=nc&Colour=White&_dcat=112581 I bought one from ELWirecraft directly some years ago, and find its excellent. As I use it 'manually' I've never felt the need to remotely control it, but with an arduino nano & some switching components, it would be easy to do...

If its only the circlip (size ?) that's at fault, then it should be possible to get one on eBay as there are loads of sellers. As for the battery compartment, the contacts should be able to be sourced from the bay, but would probably require some fettling to make them fit...

Buck converters work on the basis of using an internal oscillator that generates a nominal 'high' voltage frequency, which, when then rectified & regulated, produces a steady state output voltage up to the nominal rated current output, (as long as the source can supply this current) but will drop off if this is exceeded. So by using one, you will at least guarantee that the output stays constant, but by the nature that it works, it may be 'noisier' with switching artefacts imposed on the voltage rail, which may then have knock on effects of the equipment being powered.

For regulators to provide a reliable steady output voltage, you have to make sure that the source voltage is at least 3 volts above the nominal output voltage, to ensure the internal circuitry works correctly. So if your source power supply is below, at least 15v, I wouldn't bother, and may well provide an additional drain on the source, limiting 'running' time.

and there are: https://www.easypixinsight.com/tutorials

How do you know its causing a short ?? An old DRY toothbrush, very lightly brushed in one direction only, if possible with a vacuum sucking off any debris....