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Found 5 results

  1. Hi All, If I grab hold of the puck on my AZEQ5 I can make it rock back and forth by a degree or so (DEC axis), there appears to be no play in the RA axis. Does anyone else have this? Can it be adjusted out? Thanks, Neil.
  2. Hello. I am considering getting a QHY Polemaster for my AZ-EQ5 mount. Has any one used this combination and did it work well? Also I have heard that the Polemaster can wash out if light pollution is present, how much of a problem is this? The light pollution is not bad but I have to look over the house to see Polaris and I wonder could overspillfrom it wash out the Polemaster. I would suppose this to in part depend on how wide the Polemasters' field of view is. Any observations and advice would be welcome. Jim
  3. It turns out I can not acquire more data until this challenge ends. I present you therefore what I have until now. It's a 5 panels mosaic in Hydrogen alpha. 3 panels in portrait mode, at the top. And 2 in landscape mode, at the bottom. Each panel is made by 30-31 subs of 300s and for the Orion nebula core I have a few 15s subs. All subs are taken with the ZWO ASI 1600 MMC, cooled to -15C, and 139gain. The lens is a Canon 300 F4 L with a lot of distortions caused by the IS element. Compared to the images I was taking on other targets until Orion rose enough, the focus was good since the beginning and remained ok during the nights. Mount: AZ-EQ5. Guiding with a 200mm lens. Software used: APT and PHD for acquisition; DSS, APP, Registar, StarTools and GIMP for processing. I plan to acquire 4 more Ha panels in landscape mode to cover the same area to increase the SNR and then to move to O3 and LRGB. A lot of work this winter. Link with wip: http://www.astrobin.com/317154/C/ Thanks and clear skies, Alex
  4. Recently I opened my AZ-EQ5 mount for adjusting and greasing. I did not find any complete tutorial for this nor worm or bearings dimensions. I plan to replace some of those if I have the chance. Meanwhile, I will add some pics of the disassembly process. Open the plastic top case. Please excuse the USB hub attached, I did not remove that. Pull out the cable connectors. Put the top case with the controller board aside. The bolt inside the green circle can help you remembering or adjusting the belt tension. Loosen down the RA motor screws. Remove the belt. Unscrew the bolts. Remove the motor. The bolts inside the green circles can help you remember and adjust the worm distance to the RA main gear. Remove the bolts holding the worm case. Parts: RA main gear, worm case. Remove the screws holding the encoder board. You get access to the nut holding the worm in place. Remove this too. Remove the bolts inside the driving gear attached to the worm. Sorry, not the best pic. You can now proceed to push out the worm and the bearings. No pics for this, sorry. The bearings are 688Z, 16mm outer diameter, 8mm inner diameter, 5mm width. Worm dimensions measured with the caliper: 69mm, 36mm. Hope someone finds this useful. I'd be interested if the worm is identical to the ones used in the HEQ5. Clear skies! Alex
  5. I think I'm done with the Hydrogen layer for these nebulae. I started 3 weeks ago a 4 panel mosaic with the 130PDS. I shot around 2h on each panel in 180s subs at 300 gain. And recently I thought to lower the noise in the darker areas and I shot another 7h with the Canon 300 F4 L and I combined the dark areas. I see now that I should have taken more frames with the scope as the quality of the image taken through the lens is way lower. Anyway, I still combined them a bit. The plan is to add LRGB too in the future and perhaps some O3 as well. Full resolution 16 bit .png here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByhJ_xuQxcnjNjdyMUpqSkJFYUU And, in order: the image taken with the lens, the one with the scope and the blend. Thoughts are welcomed. Clear skies, Alex
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