Alien 13

As far as I know some Canon cameras have an interval timer that lets you shoot any number of images provided they are 30s or less, there is also a bulb timer that lets you set any duration for a single shot but unfortunately you cant combine both functions. The camera might also have a continuous shooting mode but but cant remember if that works in bulb mode.. Alan

I can feel a project coming on using a SW Heritage 76 or 100 mm as a donor scope.. Alan

Me too, must be similar in size to the original Sir Isaac one.. Alan

I will watch anything but Astrobiscuit is my favorite along with Tony and Chelsea for camera info and Dr Becky of course. Alan

The problem with any solvents is that they can only dissolve grease spots then evaporate leaving a thin film of grease behind, the method you describe moping up the grease loaded solvent before it dries makes sense and far better than the hours of rubbing required after its dried. I am one of the very very few outcasts that just use a lens pen, one swipe and any grease is gone 🙂 Alan

Couple of points regarding camera choice (with canon) are that newer models are more likely to have lower noise levels and the less digits in the model number the better the camera in functions and noise performance. Make sure that as a minimum that the camera has live view and still supported by third party software. Alan

What scope are you intending to use as this will determine what level of mod you can use, for example a basic refractor would show star bloat with a full spectrum mod unless you add external filters which might cost more than the camera itself, a reflector however would be fine. The basic Ha mod should still work with refractors and camera lenses provided the sensor was re shimmed or the mod included a filter swap rather than removal. Alan

it depends on what modifications you are after, the genuine factory astro modded Canon 60Da might come up on sites like MPB photographic or WEX. Alan

I think electronic eyepieces will become more popular, you only have to look through the viewfinder of a modern high end mirrorless DSLR to be convinced. An electronic eyepiece could also provide correct image views, have various zoom modes, have variable integration times and the ability to save the image too. Oh and a constant exit pupil size over varying focal lengths. Alan

Me too and a female Borg for company would be nice 😀 Alan

With the phone attached to the eyepiece the tracking requirements are similar to a full blown imaging rig, you can do the reverse fairly easily by having the phone taking wide field and use the Dob in effect as a guide scope to keep a star centered in the FOV. Alan

I have seen naked eye comets and plenty of meteors so would have to be a supernova preferably one close by.. Not listed but a large asteroid impact on the Moon would be nice 😀 Alan

Was only mentioned as an alternative, at F5 its limited to general use unlike an F8 Planet killer. Alan

You could just strip all the coatings off and use it as a white light solar scope, would be good to go for imaging but would need additional filters if you wanted to look through it. Alan

I do like the idea of an astro mug though 😀 Alan

You will probably have to download a specific version of EOS utils to work, if the camera has Wi Fi you should be able to use "Canon camera connect" too which will allow you to control the camera via a mobile phone etc. Alan

If converting pictures from RAW then use Adobe DNG format, much better than TIFF and the converter is free. Alan

I am hoping to use it for games and smart watch face design.. Alan

As Dave mentioned, I have also found some adapters can be a little off. I have noticed that on my 50 mm Takumar that the M42 thread stops just before the back plate face resulting in a tiny gap when screwed in, this was fixed by adding a small chamfer to the adapter with a dremil. If all this fails then the adjustment screws (often hiding beneath the rubber grip if fitted) can be tweaked but you will have to search online to find which ones. Alan

Think any wedge design would need to be a hybrid, PLA especially the carbon loaded one is very stiff so would be OK as the main frame and support structure but would not survive any large clamping loads so would need some metal inserts. I found this video regarding 3D printed harmonic drives and the basic design will probably be what I use for my experiments. Alan

The good thing about 3D prints is that you can experiment with real parts and its so easy to modify or re-design them. Alan

Is this the possible X class flare coming our way... Alan

Now I have a 3D printer I might give a Harmonic drive a go, wondering if even the flexible ring can be printed too for a small low torque system for use in a camera tracker or remote controlled normal camera mount. I have had good results so far with carbon fibre filament for the stiff strong parts and thinking maybe PLA + for the semi flexible stuff. Alan

Nice, already have Affinity Photo but notice that "Designer" is reduced too so will hit the button. Alan

What a brilliant pub shed... Alan