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Alien 13

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Everything posted by Alien 13

  1. I feel inadequate as I use Tinkercad but it does all I need and is super fast.. Idea to stl file in less than 10 mins most of the time. Alan
  2. I cant see the Webb surviving more that a year perhaps two at most before its destroyed by impacts. Alan
  3. Not such a daft idea as you may think.. Lots of examples out there.. Alan
  4. A star tracker (tiny one for my phone camera) is on my to-do list when I have finished all the "fun" projects I have on the go, as to bearings I use lots of those "skateboard" ones for anything that has to move and they are reasonably cheap too. Alan
  5. Cura is now at V5 and significantly better than previous versions, worth a go. As for thee seam I personally would rather have the line and remove with a wooden "nail file". Alan
  6. My Son has a glass bed on his printer and often has to stick the plate in the freezer to free up the print without having to resort to excess force, better than not enough adhesion though. I do like my flexible bed everything sticks well and just peels off although it does limit the printer to PLA only. Alan
  7. No idea what you would call mine now, started life as an ender 3 pro but have done quite a few upgrades like 4.2.7 motherboard running Jyers UI firmware/dual z axis motors/all metal extruder/ CR touch/ Capricorn bowden tubing/colour screen/ xy adjusters/led lighting/adjustable height dampening feet plus lots of other DIY bits and it prints reliably. Alan
  8. Manual bed leveling can last for ages more so if the springs are upgraded, before I opted for a CR touch auto leveling I rarely had to adjust mine and now never but I spent a lot of time to get it perfect before the swap. Alan
  9. Simple answer is because it can be done on the fly while its printing if you notice that the first layer looks not quite correct, usually catch this while the cura profile is printing its first line and boundary box, manually adjusting the bed itself would have no effect on this as the auto bed leveling routine would just compensate for the changes and still leave the z offset incorrect. With me having a magnetic flexible bed that is lifted to peel off parts also means that the z offset can change slightly. Alan
  10. I would agree with this, have been printing for months now without any adjustments to the bed apart from some minor tweaking to the Z offset with some filament types which can be done as it prints. Alan
  11. I use a lot of the Amazon basics brand PLA, running some of their black PLA plus right now, my other favorite is JAYO for exotic stuff like wood filled PLA and Carbon fibre etc. Alan
  12. Never had a problem with leaving PLA lying around either in fact quite the opposite, some fresh out the bag stuff (especially wood, carbon) just wont print very well at all and is prone to breaking on the reel so I leave them open at least a week now. Alan
  13. Have read that the first galaxies were only a few hundred million years or less after the big bang which begs the question of which came first, stars or galaxies. Alan
  14. Have had a few specialist filaments like "wood" PLA that are very brittle and would break on the roll very easily but found if I left it unopened for a week so it could absorb some moisture it was fine... Alan
  15. Buy your girlfriend a 60D and mod the 600D 😀 Alan
  16. I use a dual pano ball head on its side as mentioned by Happy-kat and its very smooth, the addition of a long mounting plate means that you can get good balance too. It does move the CofG away from the center of the tripod and you do need a center column to avoid the scope hitting the legs but is OK for small scopes. Alan
  17. Only minor niggles for me like the cut/copy and paste keeping the file forever and the biggie with its handling or not handling ICC calibration files.. Alan
  18. I prefer Horizon as it is now and like the music.. Alan
  19. I am sure this would be possible the same way a DSLR can have "lens data" to correct any pin cushioning etc or even to de-fish a fisheye lens. Alan
  20. The "wood" type inserts are far superior in my view provided you get the hole dimensions correct (easily done with a test print), another useful re-purposed item are the extruder gears that can be push fit/glued into the plastic and make excellent rod couplings for knobs or other parts..i.e. these. Alan
  21. Nothing like a slice of Dr Becky to start the day, thanks. Alan
  22. As above, determining the focal length of a SCT/Mak type scope is far more difficult as you have two optical surfaces, one fixed the other movable.. Alan
  23. If your sensor is more sensitive to heat it might be worth while moving the battery from inside the camera to a battery grip too.. Alan
  24. It was discussed in the presentation but I don't have a direct link and cant remember the details.. Alan
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