johninderby

No need to remove the focuser knob. With the rubber cover removed a toothed drive pulley will fit. Get a pulley with a 12mm bore and drill it out to a slightly larger size so it will slip over the focuser knob. Some filing may be needed to make the bore big enough. There is a thread here on SGL on motorising the focuser.

Maybe if it looked like this??? 🤔

I bought my AZ-EQ5 as I wanted something simple to set up for planetary observing. Simply using solar system align is good enough for observing the moon or Jupiter etc. without having to do a proper alignment. For more serious observing then doing a proper align is needed but easy in ALT AZ mode. For AP then set up in EQ mode. It’s the flexability of the mount that I like the most. You can use it in the way you want to. BTW please use white text in your post. Much easier to read than the colour you have used. EDIT Mine has no slop in the AZ axis in AZ mode. Fine for high power planetary use. It is however harder to reach the AZ clutch to tighten it up properly when setup in ALt Az mode which can lead to it not being properly tightened. Use both hands and no problem. I also have my suspicions that the older mounts seem may have been harder to tighten the clutch properly.

Small screws you say? 😂 For a model I’m building.

Springs And Things for very small springs cut to length. Have ordered off them and great service. https://springsandthings.me.uk/product-category/compression_springs/

I have metal 0.4 nozzles on mine and have no problems with clogging etc. although as mentioned some filaments produce better results Biggest improvement in print quality though was in getting Simplify3D. Worth every penny for the results it delivers. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

And this

You can not be serious indeed. 😂

Yes I found that what works well in one printer maygive poor resilts in another printer. Probably has a lot to do with the setup of no two printers being exactly the same. I find Jet brand filament really suits my printer. Rigid Ink was not that good.

Have to admit I don’t bother with the second nozzle on mine. Can you tell which one doesn’t get used? 🤔

Should I be worried that that’s just plain English to me??? 🤔

Wish all apps would be available in IOS or Android versions. Some great android apps out there which I can’t use on my iPad. 🤬

You should take a better look. The terminator is illuminated in a realistic manner and not just a straight line.

Here you go. 🙂

For the iPad my favourite is Moon Atlas by Julian James. Like the way the terminator is shown and easy to setup to match your view through the eyepiece. Lots of info as well and you can select which features are labeled

All l those details are in my Motorising a Skymax 180 Focuser thread.

I fitted the motor unit myself. Not that hard to do.

Have ypu tried the Nexstar resource website. https://www.nexstarsite.com/

Being a planetary / lunar scope with a narrow fov really wide field eyepieces aren’t that usefull anyway.. A 30mm eyepiece is about the widest usefull one. Even if a very wide eyepiece does vignette it’s not really noticeable., The 2” diagonal that the scope comes with could do with replacing with something better. Not that the stock one is that horrible optically but not good build quality. Typical of the cheap diagonals usually suppied with scopes. I use a WO diag SCT fit one with mine.

The ASI1600 should be OK and at least yours is a mono which is good. A bit bigger pixel size than ideal as the Scout has an effective focal length of f/15.5. Something closer to a 2.8mm pixel is a better match. In-focus can be a problem though particularily if a focal reducer is used which you’ll need for a full disc image. I just got a short nosepiece for my ZWO ASI290MM as I couldn’t get it to focus with a focal reducer and the standard nosepiece. Of course it’s been nothing but cloud since the short nosepiece arrived. 🤬 I’ve just mptorised the focuser which should really help.

Who you gonna to call after the Zombie outbreak. 😁

Or he’ll have a screw loose. 😁

The Baader Diamond Steeltrack is just a higher quality focuser using better materials and made with higher precision so it will last longer without wearing. Basically it’s you get what you pay for. “How does it work? Imagine a surface like a fine emery cloth, if you push two of the surfaces together their grits mesh. On a microscopic level thousands of 'teeth' grip each other, like teeth on a rack and pinion. The SteelTrack has a very fine grit made from industrial diamonds applied to what would normally be (on a Crayford focuser) a smooth metal roller bearing, which meshes with a textured metal surface on the focuser drawtube. The result is remarkable, it provides the smooth action of a Crayford with no backlash and a higher load bearing capacity. We hope that makes sense, it is much easier to understand when the focuser is in front of you.”

Of course not I was only joking. 😁

Worth looking for a second hand Baader focuser as an alternative.