Shelster1973

As promised, some pictures of said handsets Skywatcher Handset. Black cable is for connection to the mount and the grey cable is for connecting handset to PC Skywatcher close up Celestron Handset. Black cable for connecting handset to mount and grey cable for connecting handset to PC. This also has a serial to USB dongle attached to it. Not looking to sell the dongle on its own. Will go with which ever handset sells first........the race is on. Celestron on its own Thanks for looking

Ah....didn't put up any as was under the thinking that most people would either know what they where or Google them. Will take some this evening when I get home for clarity

Having a clearout and decided to get rid of the handsets that I have lying around not doing much First up is a SynScan handset that came with my Skywatcher EQ6R-Pro. Am not sure what version it is as have never used it (always computer control my mount). Looking for £75 for this one and that includes P&P too Next up is the NexStar handset that came with my Celestron AVX. Again, not sure on the version that this is running, but can confirm that the handset does (did) work the last time that I had it out. This one is £50 inclusive the good old P&P Both have cables to connect into the mount too

At the moment, I am not using any cable to fire my camera as I have an issue with the snap port. I get very intermittent fires with mine. Sometimes it works, others it wont and sounds a bit like yours, it will just fire off a rapid amount of shots. The cable that I have is this one in the AP-R3N(N3) flavour. I have had the mount apart and tried to replace the snap port, but it is on a very small board mounted connector and also heard from @FLOthat Sky Watcher don't spare that particular part. My only option left now is to use an external intervalometer, which I was loath to do, but am guessing that I have to now. One last option would be for me to connect the shutter release cable that I have to the wires that are left on the snap port, but would mean cutting the cable

After what seems like ages, I have finally managed to grab some data with my setup. I decided to go for The Elephants Trunk A’s was very visible to me, but I ended up not being able to get all the data I was after due to a small issue of running into the tripod in the end I managed to get some Ha, lum and red data and was wondering what would be the best way to combine them, if indeed I can? havent started on the processing yet

Hi Not sure if it of interest to you (may be to large) but I have my 8" orion newt up for sale. Info on it (and pics) can be found here It is currently located in Widnes, so not that far up the M6 from Staffs. Let me know what you think and we can go from there. If it is no god, then good hunting and clear skies

Very nice setup indeed. I am after getting the same scope at some point in the future. interesting to see that there is now a USB port on that mount. Mine did not have that, so am guessing they have just had a revision. Still, have had no problems controlling it via an eqmod cable. enjoy and clear skies

I connect all mine through a powered USB hub and have no issues with this. For a pier install over the distance you mention, you could go two ways with it. Have a NUC sat on the pier, connect all your equipment to this (either direct if enough ports or with a powered USB hub) and then control this via a remote desktop application, or you could use a powered USB hub at the mount and then use a USB over ethernet extender to connect back to a PC inside your house. it may be possible to use a powered USB cable to bring the hub output back to the house, but these can be temperamental and give connection issues., I have found it to be a great piece of software and prefer to use this over SGP, which I have paid for. I find it very intuitive and the GUI is well laid and out and very clear

It will live in the 'spare screw' pot that I have if it does indeed turn up

For those who have ever wondered what is going on inside the Skywatcher Star Adventurer, wonder no more. Here is the mount, stripped down as far as I am willing to go. I have an issue with the SNAP port on mine in that it is very sporadic in its working. Sometimes it will be fine and then others it will fire the camera but not hold the shutter open as it should. I have tried replacing the 2.5mm socket with another, but to no avail. Have contacted @FLO to see about getting a whole new port, harness and connector and am waiting to hear back on cost for this. To get to the board that it connects to, you have to strip the mount down as far as I have above, as the worm / motor assembly gets in the way of the connector. A very easy stripdown it is too. 4 x Allen screws take off the saddle. You then fully unscrew the black clutch ring and remove it. The roller thrust bearing then slips off to reveal the rotary gear. 4 x Allen screws set inside this remove it from the mount body. The worm / motor assy is removed by 2 x countersunk Allen screws. Was very pleasantly surprised to see the roller thrust bearing in there. A very nice engineering touch. The grease used is very light and they have not gone over the top with the use of it too. I will be wiping all clean and using a teflon grease when I put it all back together. Have left the polar scope fitted as I do not need to remove it to do the work I am doing and will also save me the hassle of getting it back in and collimated too. If anyone wants any closeups of any of the parts while it is in this state, let me know and will take some and post here.

Sorry, I never got round to sorting this one out. Had a lot of other stuff going on that distracted me away from investigating any further. i still reckon it is down to the lens being wide open and the issues that causes with focusing exactly. As I now have the opportunity, I will look back into this and see what I can do to resolve it.

Said I was crap at maths. I was planning on dividing 360 by 24 which gives 15...not sure where i got 6 from........... Hand controller would be a very good test. Cuts out all of the other parts and would give a true representation of the mount on its own

I was just about to jump in with this one. A good read on all things guiding with EQMOD can be had here. I would still set up a non-guided, tracking only dummy run. Use the setting scale rings to mark a zero point, then head away for a cup of tea, or other beverage of you choice (over 18s may imbibe if desired) and then head back after an hour or two. If you are tracking ok, then you will have moved. Not sure of the number, but am sure another user well versed in maths will be bale to provide how many degrees will have moved in 1 hour. My crap maths says 6 degrees........ but was never good at the numbers Just read/noticed that you are using KSTARS/ekos/indi. Do you have a way of using the Windows iteration of EQMOD as a way of ruling out an issue with your current solution?

Have found the following PHD2/EQMOD setting guide if you have not seen it Here

To my (untrained) eye that looks to me as if the mount is not tracking in RA at all. If you do a 'dummy' setup during the day and just have the mount tracking via EQMOD, does it move as expected? It may be a setting within EQMOD that needs adjusting.......or not being one to point the obvious, you have enabled tracking within EQMOD? I have made that mistake on more than one occasion. If you can manually slew the mount in RA then the motors must be working fine and it has to be a control issue somewhere along the way.....