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New Dob

Ken82
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Ken82

Ken82

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So I finally decided to get a dob after many years of using refractors, sct’s and binos. Mainly as it’s easy to set up whilst I’m imaging. And it fits nicely behind the kitchen door 😀

I’ve been able to use a Celestron raci and I got a laser collimator with it. 
 

What RDF can people recommend ? 
Should I get any of the below -

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/rigel-quikfinder-compact-reflex-sight.html
 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/baader-30mm-sky-surfer-iii.html
 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/telrad-finder-astronomy.html

or anything else ?

thanks ken 

 

 

09CCE371-6548-481A-A33B-EE640B443CA3.jpeg

770EF3BE-C9F3-40F9-92F0-5514ECC1114B.jpeg

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Louis D

Louis D

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The Telrad has a 4° outer ring that the Rigel lacks.  It also has less parallax issues than the Rigel.  It's also huge compared to the QF.  I have both and prefer the Telrad on Dobs and the QF on refractors and small Maks.

However, if you're not into star hopping, a simple RDF will do nicely to put the scope on target.

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John

John

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My 12 inch dob has the same Celestron RACI illuminated finder that you have alongside a Rigel Quikfinder. I've also owned a few Telrads and they are very good as well. The Baader Skysufer III is a competent single dot finder but having the defined field circular reticules that the Rigel and Telrad has is a great help with star hopping.

 

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Louis D

Louis D

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4 hours ago, Stardaze said:

I’ve gone with the Telrad as the Rigel I ordered was poor in build.

Sorry to hear that.  I bought mine 20 years ago and haven't had the slightest bit of trouble or breakage with mine.  In fact, the original lithium button cell is still going strong.  Even catching it on the door frame several times as I brought the scope from outdoors, knocking it loose and having it clatter to the concrete didn't phase it one bit.  I always forget how much it sticks out from the tube, and that I need to remove it before carrying the tripod and scope indoors.  The fact that it attaches with a plastic locking tab saved the attachment point from being damaged each time.

On the flip side, my original Telrad died after AA batteries corroded inside it.  I replaced the holder and still couldn't get it to light up.  My two replacement Telrads' potentiometers go from off to full on in the last few degrees of motion making it difficult to regulate down the brightness.  As such, I've had a pretty bad run with my Telrads over the past 22 years.

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Stardaze

Stardaze

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1 hour ago, Louis D said:

Sorry to hear that.  I bought mine 20 years ago and haven't had the slightest bit of trouble or breakage with mine.  In fact, the original lithium button cell is still going strong.  Even catching it on the door frame several times as I brought the scope from outdoors, knocking it loose and having it clatter to the concrete didn't phase it one bit.  I always forget how much it sticks out from the tube, and that I need to remove it before carrying the tripod and scope indoors.  The fact that it attaches with a plastic locking tab saved the attachment point from being damaged each time.

On the flip side, my original Telrad died after AA batteries corroded inside it.  I replaced the holder and still couldn't get it to light up.  My two replacement Telrads' potentiometers go from off to full on in the last few degrees of motion making it difficult to regulate down the brightness.  As such, I've had a pretty bad run with my Telrads over the past 22 years.

To be fair, it was a single copy. I just didn’t like how marked the perspex was, though in use, in the dark, you wouldn’t see those marks. The telrad does have a very small dimming range on the potentiometer, for sure. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest

Guest

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8 minutes ago, Ken82 said:

My wife hasn’t noticed it behind the kitchen door 😀👍

perfect hiding place and easy to take into garden 

3EE85D40-1956-4BAE-B19B-D2FA3FBB55A2.jpeg

Just hope she doesn't mistake it for a large pedal bin!🤣

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Ken82

Ken82

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Posted (edited)

Should I get some risers for my telrad ? It’s quite close to the finder scope. 
 

also could do with a coma corrector, which one ??

8716F3BC-5BD8-467C-B71D-F543692E64B9.jpeg

Edited by Ken82
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Dantooine

Dantooine

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Posted
On 26/06/2020 at 15:17, Ken82 said:

So I finally decided to get a dob after many years of using refractors, sct’s and binos. Mainly as it’s easy to set up whilst I’m imaging. And it fits nicely behind the kitchen door 😀

I’ve been able to use a Celestron raci and I got a laser collimator with it. 
 

What RDF can people recommend ? 
Should I get any of the below -

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/rigel-quikfinder-compact-reflex-sight.html
 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/baader-30mm-sky-surfer-iii.html
 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/telrad-finder-astronomy.html

or anything else ?

thanks ken 

 

 

09CCE371-6548-481A-A33B-EE640B443CA3.jpeg

770EF3BE-C9F3-40F9-92F0-5514ECC1114B.jpeg

That looks the business. Makes my frac look like a kids toy. 

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Paz

Paz

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2 hours ago, Ken82 said:

Should I get some risers for my telrad ? It’s quite close to the finder scope. 
 

also could do with a coma corrector, which one ??

 

Personally I would not recommend a riser unless you have tried it in the field and really think you need one.

I got a riser for the telrad on my dob just assuming it would be an improvement but it for me it didn't help and it did add bulk so I took it off.

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Louis D

Louis D

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19 hours ago, Ken82 said:

Should I get some risers for my telrad ? It’s quite close to the finder scope. 
 

also could do with a coma corrector, which one ??

If you get a Telrad riser, how are you going to use the RACI without going around to the other side of the scope?  It seems like it would be a wall between the focuser and the RACI.

I use a GSO/Revelation coma corrector to good effect in my Dob.  I had to add a 25mm spacer ring between the eyepiece holder and the optics section for best correction.  It requires about 11mm of in-focus and adds 10% magnification.  Your eyepieces also need to focus within about 5mm of the eyepiece shoulder for best correction.  Only my 12mm NT4 required parfocalization since it focuses 19mm below the shoulder.  It also made it so much easier to swap it in and out by minimizing refocusing.

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