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About prusling

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  1. Slightly OT, where did you get your Rolson Load Straps?
  2. It requires a fairly recent processor with a specific command set that it uses. It will run on my laptop but not my older desktop.
  3. A "SUZUKI OPEL VAUXHALL 50357 Front 246.5mm Solid Brake Disc Coated By Pagid" works well for the HEQ5. I paid around £16.50 for mine from eBay in 2016.
  4. My experience is that accurate measurement of the resulting total backfocus is essential (e.g. with digital calipers) as sometimes spacers (for example) don't fully thread in so take up more space than expected... Many times I've worked it out on paper then measured the result only to find it's out!
  5. I've googled "QHY183c Indi" and there do seem to be issues though some seem to have solved them with some Linux-level tinkering. This was my original plan for an economy setup to minimise cabling between the scope and mount but I ended up making the USB output to a hub on the side of the mount rather than input from it (for mount, focuser, etc) and kept the laptop connection from it to run everything rather than the Pi. Please keep me up to date on any positive outcomes as I'd like to revive this sometime. Cheers, Peter
  6. Hi, did you get sorted? I have just bought a used ADM dual saddle with an unwanted EQ6 puck. I can't work out whether its older or newer version, but if you are interested I'll post a pic.
  7. Very nice images - love the delicate filaments on the Veil! I found 5 min subs were fine at f5 for LRGB but I tend to go longer for narrowband (my preferred mode for winter targets). The challenge for me is that you really need 16 or more subs to bring sigma clip stacking into play which I find very useful; this is one of the advantages of OSC with which I tend to use 1-2 minute subs depending on the sky background and dither. As a lazy imager the whole mono experience was made so much easier (even I would say practicable) with automated control. I don't know whether you have a motor focuser but I find mine a godsend. In SGP I can frame my intended target ahead of time and create a sequence from its coordinates, then slew / plate solve / centre, then leave the sequence running and it takes care of auto-focusing as necessary. Have you tried StarTools - I'm a big fan. It's great value and performs very well on gradients (Wipe function). Most functions work well with their default parameters but you can change them when you have worked out the effects. There's a free trial. Thanks for the networking advice - I now have the Pi running on a network cable linked to a Homeplug equivalent. It's a DIY StellarMate on a 4GB Pi 4 (you can buy just the image and source the Pi separately). I generally use a laptop with SGP and don't have connectivity issues over wifi via the extender though it is slow. I've also successfully set up the Pi in 'headless' mode with just an Indi server on the Pi, though I've also connected over VNC without any issues. The bad news is that I can't connect to either my guide camera (Altair) or the QHY getting: "Unable to establish the following devices: + QHY CCD + Altair". I had a similar problem with a previous uncooled Altair 183c with SGP so sold it and bought the QHY cooled equivalent but not got around to trying it with the Stellarmate. I'll do some digging around but it may be a problem - a pity. I'll update if I find anything out.
  8. Hi, sorry not to get back to you sooner re StellarMate. I've drawn a blank I'm afraid - not so much on whether the QHY183c is supported (though see later) but more in getting a reliable connection. Previously I've just played with StellarMate via VNC close to my wifi router and it's worked fine but I have all my kit in an obsy so can't easily test connectivity inside the house. SGP just works for me so there has been little incentive other than to minimising cabling. I've been able to connect the mount and the motor focuser OK but it hangs when I move onto the camera tab. If it's not too off topic maybe you could help me by describing how your network is set up and in what mode you use it. I have a main router at the front of the house as it needs to be close to our security camera, and a repeater at the back of the house which covers the garden reasonably well and allows the laptop to connect in the obsy which is c. 10m away. I've tried locating the Pi in the obsy and it connects OK via the repeater, and used RealVNC on the laptop which also connects to the repeater OK. However the Pi is very slow in this configuration. Is there a better way to work?
  9. Hi again, I don't know whether you are aware that there some excellent tools under "Info" at FLO's website. They give the following data for your potential/current setups (you'd better check my calcs!): OrionED80/QHY183c Max Res 1.45 a-s, Pixel scale 0.83 a-s/px (so you'd be limited to 1.45 a-s by the scope aperture) and good match for OK to good seeing SW200PDS/QHY183c Max res 0.58 a-s, Pixel scale 0.5 a-s/px (so you could pretty well get the full res of the camera) but categorised as "This combination leads to slight over-sampling. Will require a good mount and careful guiding." For your current setup: OrionED80/Atik314L+ Max Res 1.45 a-s, Pixel scale 2.22 a-s/px and good match for poor to OK seeing; good seeing categorised as "This combination leads to significant under-sampling. This reduces the influence of guiding errors and improves signal to noise at the expense of finest detail. May be OK for widefield imaging but might result in softer images." which is no great issue in my experience SW200PDS/Atik314L+ Max res 0.58 a-s, Pixel scale 1.33 a-s/px and very good match for OK seeing with good and poor seeing not bad If you add a reducer to the OrionED80/Atik314L+ combo it makes the under-sampling worse though with my even worse setup I have never really found this a problem. I'll give Stellarmate a go a bit later. In the meantime, here's my latest image with the 110mm scope and the 183c for a total of c. 2 hours - I was gentle on the noise reduction to retain the dust clouds.
  10. I have Stellarmate but haven't used it in anger yet (I use SGP). I'll try connecting it up tomorrow. and report back. A step up? The Atik is a very fine low noise camera that I find works very well with narrowband (I rarely use LRGB). The 183c is a quality OSC with great cooling and small pixels though I find it a little hit or miss - it seems to need a darker sky background and that's not easy to achieve from an urban setting. When it's good it's very good but it can also be disappointing. As noted the file sizes are much bigger and with short subs you can end up with a lot of space used / transfer times and longer preprocessing time. To me they are complementary and both are keepers! Peter
  11. I have both the Atik 314L+ mono and the QHY183c colour and I would say that they serve different purposes. I have been using the Atik on an 80mm f6 frac reduced to 390mm. According to the prevailing wisdom this is highly undersampled but it works very well for me for wide DSO targets. The 183c also works well with this scope though I understand that the aperture gives a low Dawes limit so resolution is being lost. I also found that the field of view is too wide for the smaller spring/summer targets so I recently bought a 110mm f5. 95 frac with only a flattener at 655mm and have been using the 183c with it to good effect. I am a lazy imager and try and avoid calibration frames - the Atik works very well using a single bias master as a dark at any temperature. I run the 183c at - 20 all year round and have a set of matching darks at varying exposure durations which fully remove all amp glow. I use an OAG on the 80mm mainly to free up the upper dovetail for power and data distribution. It works pretty well considering the base of the prism was chipped when I bought it! Happy to answer any questions you have.
  12. Hi Karen, there's a very sociable club called Fordingbridge Astronomers who (in more normal times) meet near Ringwood on the 3rd Tuesday each month. You'd be very welcome to join us when we resume (or on Zoom in the meantime) - http://fordingbridgeastro.org.uk/index.php
  13. A while ago on my 550d I used a 1.25" Ha filter inside a T adaptor by utilising a sawn-off T2 nosepiece which was fully threaded for filters! It showed vignetting as you would expect but a good proportion of the image was OK.
  14. Another option which probably works on a similar basis to the Concenter is to use a camera with lens to image the secondary, in conjunction with free software showing overlaid concentric circles to help to circularise and align it. This does require a camera so may not help the OP (e.g. a webcam with original lens not removed and a 1.25" fitting, or an add-on lens to an astro cam such as a wide angle meteor lens). See the excellent YouTube video by AstronomyShed entitled "Advanced Newtonian Collimation".
  15. Correction - it's PHD not EQMOD that supports drift alignment
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