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masjstovel

ZWO ASI 1600MM Pro (mono) or not?

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27 minutes ago, masjstovel said:

I bought the ZWO 1600MM Pro with 1.25" Filter-wheel, LRGB filters, and Narrowband filters now..
Please dont tell my girlfriend.

As a bandage on the wound: My friend is 3D-printing a Bahtinov-mask for free ($1800 used - $20 saved :)

And you know what?

This not the end! :) hahahaha

 

P.S.

Congrats!!!! :)

Edited by RolandKol
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On 10/10/2019 at 13:39, RolandKol said:

1) Do we have the same focuser (except yours is modified)? - yes, 130PDS and 150 have the same one. And no, my focuser is not modified, I just attached autofocuser to the focuser's shaft directly.

2) Why the DSLR on the lower part of the scope?  - balance... 130PDS is quite small, once I placed autofucser (500g) also  ASI + EFW, I was not able to balance... I wanted to move scope lower in the rings, but autofocuser's motor was in the way... So I needed something heavy at the bottom. My Canon fit the purpose! :)

3) The beauty of the Cooled Astro Camera, - you can use library of Darks and you do not need to collect them each night as you control the sensor's temperature.

4) I consider myself as a new starter with just a bit of experience :) (only around 2.5 - 3 years in hobby)... but my routine is as follows:

If camera was removed before session, I focus using Bahtinov Mask and SharpCap Bahtinov focusing aid on any Brighter but not the brightest star. (if camera was in, SGP autofofus is enough).

As my scope is permanent I do not do Polar Alignment each time, however, if mount suffers from bad guiding, - after focusing, I start from PA routine (usually using PHD2 drift alignment). That Means I delete all sync points on EQMOD invest another 30mins to PA.

Once PA is done, I move scope just a bit lower than 0 Alt, later lift/slew to the Star which is located just above 0 ALT and close to the Meridian to do PHD calibration (I move scope just like this as PHD calibration starts from moving scope North, and I want all gears in DEC to be intact, without any backslash).

Once done, I start my imaging session. SGP uses EQMOD in a "dialog mode" and manual sync points are not needed ... (At least in my case it works without them nicely).

I do flats at the end, in the morning...  I use a simple Stencil LED panel as this one  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A4-LED-Art-Craft-Drawing-Board-Tracing-Light-Box-Table-Pad-Tattoo-Arts-Stencil/264220730411?hash=item3d84c8642b:m:mmdtuhOAM_wQQuyyu5iAR6Q

It came in a card box, so I just cut the hole in it to fit the scope, placed 3 peaces of white paper in and used SGP Flats routine to get exposure times for each filter. I use full light ON all the time and regulated the light reduction by adding or removing white paper, to keep the same brightness for all sessions and all filters.

I do not re-do Flats each session if I have not moved the camera. Can be a bit dangerous with Newtonians as they are wide open, but I am lucky so far.

What else...
If you check the image of my set up again, - keep your ASI camera on the scope in the same position, at 6 o'clock or at 12 (I cannot use 12 as I have cannon on the top and it would become useless).

ASI +EWF are quite heavy and such a position will give you the best balance. Also, try keeping counterweights as close to the mount as possible, if you use 1 which is at the end of the shaft, - place 2 and bring them closer to the mount, it will make mount RA movements easier which = to a better guiding performance. 

Hmm.... Some more novels can be written here :) 

but this is probably the basics I can drop out at the moment :)

 

Permanent? You have a foundation in addition to the EQ6? 
Nice to see have an insight in others workflow. I have because of time and weather used around 50hours (prediction)  on youtube/forums for learning, but only around 10 hours with the actual equipment - And half of those on setup, aligning and calibrating roughly.

Point is, naturally there is alot of tips & useful information that doesn't show through videos and articles i believe. I don't know if this 5 to 1 ratio on theory vs practice is healthy, but thats the story so far.

 

If PHD calibration is not good, or guiding is not good, how do you troubleshoot?

I see on the picture, but 6 o'clock like 90 degrees on the scope or paralel with scope?

Also i don't have a coma-corrector, but i figure i need that from what i've read. Do i need additional adaptors for driving the ZWO through this?

 

 

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1 hour ago, RolandKol said:

And you know what?

This not the end! :) hahahaha

 

P.S.

Congrats!!!! :)

Haha i know.. it feels more like the start... Have an EQ-6 on the way as well. Should have listened to those begging me to not go for the EQ5.....

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1 hour ago, masjstovel said:

Permanent? You have a foundation in addition to the EQ6? 
Nice to see have an insight in others workflow. I have because of time and weather used around 50hours (prediction)  on youtube/forums for learning, but only around 10 hours with the actual equipment - And half of those on setup, aligning and calibrating roughly.
Point is, naturally there is alot of tips & useful information that doesn't show through videos and articles i believe. I don't know if this 5 to 1 ratio on theory vs practice is healthy, but thats the story so far.

If PHD calibration is not good, or guiding is not good, how do you troubleshoot?

I see on the picture, but 6 o'clock like 90 degrees on the scope or paralel with scope?

Also i don't have a coma-corrector, but i figure i need that from what i've read. Do i need additional adaptors for driving the ZWO through this?

Permanent, but not on the pear... I keep my tripod and the rig outside under the BBQ cover ;)

as per PHD calibration, - if it fails, it can be due to many ssues, but the most usuall one is, - your Rig is not in balance.

6 o'clock in relation to RA axis, in other words, once your scope is parked, camera has to be parallel to the counterweight shaft.

ZWO will have all the spacers needed to get the cam into correct distance from Coma Corrector, however, like in my case, I had to add 1mm in addition, you may not need it, - maybe.

You will face lots of issues for sure, but better sort them as they come :) 

Edited by RolandKol

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19 hours ago, RolandKol said:

Permanent, but not on the pear... I keep my tripod and the rig outside under the BBQ cover ;)

as per PHD calibration, - if it fails, it can be due to many ssues, but the most usuall one is, - your Rig is not in balance.

6 o'clock in relation to RA axis, in other words, once your scope is parked, camera has to be parallel to the counterweight shaft.

ZWO will have all the spacers needed to get the cam into correct distance from Coma Corrector, however, like in my case, I had to add 1mm in addition, you may not need it, - maybe.

You will face lots of issues for sure, but better sort them as they come :) 

In balance as in not leveled or off in polarscope? presume both is pretty regular.
Yes i am 100% sure there will be more issues to come! The negative thing with AP is that there are not so many "fix it by doing.." yet, but many "fix it by buying" 😮

I've learned alot from just this post. I thank you guys alot @RolandKol, @vlaiv, @kens and @Adam J !

Edited by masjstovel
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On 11/10/2019 at 15:49, masjstovel said:

As a bandage on the wound: My friend is 3D-printing a Bahtinov-mask for free ($1800 used - $20 saved :)

Got the 3D-printed Bahtinov mask today. Had to secure myself in both ends so both the flaps and the screw-holes. The flaps fitted perfectly. Now i just have to wait for clear skies to see if it works:)

20191016_232443.jpg

20191016_232456.jpg

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11 hours ago, masjstovel said:

Got the 3D-printed Bahtinov mask today. Had to secure myself in both ends so both the flaps and the screw-holes. The flaps fitted perfectly. Now i just have to wait for clear skies to see if it works:)

Wow :) thats a thick one! :)
I print mine twice slimmer ;)
I am sure, you will not need
screw-holes, - you can chop them off later on to save some space if needed.

And yes, - it will work 100%, - the main tool to have :)
And yes, it will also enable you to see how your focuser behaves once you lock it (APT Bahtinov aid or any other imaging software Bahtinov Aid is really handy with it).
So once you get your "perfect" focus, - lock the focuser and check the Bahtinov Aid figures again... Lets hope you will not have much tilt and figures will not run away a lot :)
To be honest, - "Locking" was my main pain while focusing Manually....
 

P.S. Make a habit to place B mask in the same manner, - it will enable you to learn the software and know which direction to turn the focus knob to get closer to focus.
For example, negative figure will mean - turn Left, and opposite. If you will keep swapping B mask position each session, your figures may mean different directions.

Edited by RolandKol

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@RolandKol Speaking about focus. I got my ASI1600 today. And there is talk about this 55mm backfocus, which i dont understand. 55mm from what? I see from the picture of your setup that you have an OAG on. I dont. How would i attach all these rings in the focuser to get the correct "backfocus" ? I saw some drawings on ZWO homepage, but i dont get what is left in the focuser? Do i take away that adaptor which i had to loose and had to tighten which I mentioned earlier in the post, or what do i do?

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9 hours ago, masjstovel said:

@RolandKol Speaking about focus. I got my ASI1600 today. And there is talk about this 55mm backfocus, which i dont understand. 55mm from what? I see from the picture of your setup that you have an OAG on. I dont. How would i attach all these rings in the focuser to get the correct "backfocus" ? I saw some drawings on ZWO homepage, but i dont get what is left in the focuser? Do i take away that adaptor which i had to loose and had to tighten which I mentioned earlier in the post, or what do i do?

As you do not have comma corrector, - no difference, - simply attach the longest spacer to the camera (or Filter Wheel if you have one) to get a good hold in the focus tube.

Once you will get Coma Corrector, - you will need to get camera and Coma Corrector in a close to perfect distance (55mm), and ZWO camera has all needed spacers for this in the box.

Edited by RolandKol

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First result with the ASI1600! :) Fish head nebula IC 1795 (Yes i will need that autofocuser...)

191029 IC 1795.png

Edited by masjstovel
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8 hours ago, masjstovel said:

First result with the ASI1600! :) Fish head nebula IC 1795 (Yes i will need that autofocuser...)

Nice start! :)

And yes, Autofocus makes life much easier... especially in Mono.

What about your focus tube tilt? have you noticed any while locking the focus?

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14 hours ago, RolandKol said:

Nice start! :)

And yes, Autofocus makes life much easier... especially in Mono.

What about your focus tube tilt? have you noticed any while locking the focus?

Thank you! 
You mean if i physically notice the tilt, or if i can see it resulted in the photos? It seems tight. The coma-corrector i bought is not threaded on the telescope side, so i'd have to have the locking screws anyways. 

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Nope, I meant, -  if you noticed any focus change while you been using Bahtinov aid software and once you lock your focus by using the lock bolt shown in the pic.

On 17/10/2019 at 09:29, RolandKol said:

**********

So once you get your "perfect" focus, - lock the focuser and check the Bahtinov Aid figures again... Lets hope you will not have much tilt and figures will not run away/change a lot :)
To be honest, - "Locking" was my main pain while focusing Manually....
****************

 

Focuser.jpg

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On 29/10/2019 at 00:11, masjstovel said:

First result with the ASI1600! :) Fish head nebula IC 1795 (Yes i will need that autofocuser...)

191029 IC 1795.png

Focus is fine in this image. 

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The focus has been steady during the shooting yes, but i havent shot with only the narrowbands yet, and i've heard the focus could be different between them.
In the photo I think the focus is "Ok", but not optimal. That is not because it has shifted i think but because its properly done. I used the Focus assistant - Contrast (edge) detection tool, and not the bahtinov. I got a tip on that, and i feel its a more science-based approach, since i get measurements on when the stars are smallest? 

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On 09/10/2019 at 08:54, Adam J said:

To answer this you really need to know what type of targets you want to image. Because it matters for sensor selection. The asi1600mm pro is great but with your scopes focal length it's not really going to give wide field views of emission nebula. A friend uses his 150pds for detailed looks at smaller targets like the bubble nebula or Cresent or galaxy imaging. The other thing you will want to be aware of is that the focuser will not support a asi1600mm pro and filter wheel without some droop / flex and so it's hard to get good corners, from my personal experience with the 130pds. A smaller higher resolution sensor will be easier and more suited to imaging smaller targets in detail. For example you will get very good results on small galaxys with a asi183mm pro or even better a qhy178m and they will be good right to the corner, but I sence you want the bigger sensor in the expectation of trying to go for larger targets. That being the case consider dropping down to a 130pds as it's just that bit wider. I. Terms of filters I went with 1.25 mounted, they are good down to F4. 

Or drop down to something like a ed80.

Edited by Skyline

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