Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

stargazine_ep24_banner.thumb.jpg.56e65b9c9549c15ed3f06e146fc5f5f1.jpg

masjstovel

ZWO ASI 1600MM Pro (mono) or not?

Recommended Posts

27 minutes ago, masjstovel said:

I bought the ZWO 1600MM Pro with 1.25" Filter-wheel, LRGB filters, and Narrowband filters now..
Please dont tell my girlfriend.

As a bandage on the wound: My friend is 3D-printing a Bahtinov-mask for free ($1800 used - $20 saved :)

And you know what?

This not the end! :) hahahaha

 

P.S.

Congrats!!!! :)

Edited by RolandKol
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/10/2019 at 13:39, RolandKol said:

1) Do we have the same focuser (except yours is modified)? - yes, 130PDS and 150 have the same one. And no, my focuser is not modified, I just attached autofocuser to the focuser's shaft directly.

2) Why the DSLR on the lower part of the scope?  - balance... 130PDS is quite small, once I placed autofucser (500g) also  ASI + EFW, I was not able to balance... I wanted to move scope lower in the rings, but autofocuser's motor was in the way... So I needed something heavy at the bottom. My Canon fit the purpose! :)

3) The beauty of the Cooled Astro Camera, - you can use library of Darks and you do not need to collect them each night as you control the sensor's temperature.

4) I consider myself as a new starter with just a bit of experience :) (only around 2.5 - 3 years in hobby)... but my routine is as follows:

If camera was removed before session, I focus using Bahtinov Mask and SharpCap Bahtinov focusing aid on any Brighter but not the brightest star. (if camera was in, SGP autofofus is enough).

As my scope is permanent I do not do Polar Alignment each time, however, if mount suffers from bad guiding, - after focusing, I start from PA routine (usually using PHD2 drift alignment). That Means I delete all sync points on EQMOD invest another 30mins to PA.

Once PA is done, I move scope just a bit lower than 0 Alt, later lift/slew to the Star which is located just above 0 ALT and close to the Meridian to do PHD calibration (I move scope just like this as PHD calibration starts from moving scope North, and I want all gears in DEC to be intact, without any backslash).

Once done, I start my imaging session. SGP uses EQMOD in a "dialog mode" and manual sync points are not needed ... (At least in my case it works without them nicely).

I do flats at the end, in the morning...  I use a simple Stencil LED panel as this one  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A4-LED-Art-Craft-Drawing-Board-Tracing-Light-Box-Table-Pad-Tattoo-Arts-Stencil/264220730411?hash=item3d84c8642b:m:mmdtuhOAM_wQQuyyu5iAR6Q

It came in a card box, so I just cut the hole in it to fit the scope, placed 3 peaces of white paper in and used SGP Flats routine to get exposure times for each filter. I use full light ON all the time and regulated the light reduction by adding or removing white paper, to keep the same brightness for all sessions and all filters.

I do not re-do Flats each session if I have not moved the camera. Can be a bit dangerous with Newtonians as they are wide open, but I am lucky so far.

What else...
If you check the image of my set up again, - keep your ASI camera on the scope in the same position, at 6 o'clock or at 12 (I cannot use 12 as I have cannon on the top and it would become useless).

ASI +EWF are quite heavy and such a position will give you the best balance. Also, try keeping counterweights as close to the mount as possible, if you use 1 which is at the end of the shaft, - place 2 and bring them closer to the mount, it will make mount RA movements easier which = to a better guiding performance. 

Hmm.... Some more novels can be written here :) 

but this is probably the basics I can drop out at the moment :)

 

Permanent? You have a foundation in addition to the EQ6? 
Nice to see have an insight in others workflow. I have because of time and weather used around 50hours (prediction)  on youtube/forums for learning, but only around 10 hours with the actual equipment - And half of those on setup, aligning and calibrating roughly.

Point is, naturally there is alot of tips & useful information that doesn't show through videos and articles i believe. I don't know if this 5 to 1 ratio on theory vs practice is healthy, but thats the story so far.

 

If PHD calibration is not good, or guiding is not good, how do you troubleshoot?

I see on the picture, but 6 o'clock like 90 degrees on the scope or paralel with scope?

Also i don't have a coma-corrector, but i figure i need that from what i've read. Do i need additional adaptors for driving the ZWO through this?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, RolandKol said:

And you know what?

This not the end! :) hahahaha

 

P.S.

Congrats!!!! :)

Haha i know.. it feels more like the start... Have an EQ-6 on the way as well. Should have listened to those begging me to not go for the EQ5.....

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, masjstovel said:

Permanent? You have a foundation in addition to the EQ6? 
Nice to see have an insight in others workflow. I have because of time and weather used around 50hours (prediction)  on youtube/forums for learning, but only around 10 hours with the actual equipment - And half of those on setup, aligning and calibrating roughly.
Point is, naturally there is alot of tips & useful information that doesn't show through videos and articles i believe. I don't know if this 5 to 1 ratio on theory vs practice is healthy, but thats the story so far.

If PHD calibration is not good, or guiding is not good, how do you troubleshoot?

I see on the picture, but 6 o'clock like 90 degrees on the scope or paralel with scope?

Also i don't have a coma-corrector, but i figure i need that from what i've read. Do i need additional adaptors for driving the ZWO through this?

Permanent, but not on the pear... I keep my tripod and the rig outside under the BBQ cover ;)

as per PHD calibration, - if it fails, it can be due to many ssues, but the most usuall one is, - your Rig is not in balance.

6 o'clock in relation to RA axis, in other words, once your scope is parked, camera has to be parallel to the counterweight shaft.

ZWO will have all the spacers needed to get the cam into correct distance from Coma Corrector, however, like in my case, I had to add 1mm in addition, you may not need it, - maybe.

You will face lots of issues for sure, but better sort them as they come :) 

Edited by RolandKol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, RolandKol said:

Permanent, but not on the pear... I keep my tripod and the rig outside under the BBQ cover ;)

as per PHD calibration, - if it fails, it can be due to many ssues, but the most usuall one is, - your Rig is not in balance.

6 o'clock in relation to RA axis, in other words, once your scope is parked, camera has to be parallel to the counterweight shaft.

ZWO will have all the spacers needed to get the cam into correct distance from Coma Corrector, however, like in my case, I had to add 1mm in addition, you may not need it, - maybe.

You will face lots of issues for sure, but better sort them as they come :) 

In balance as in not leveled or off in polarscope? presume both is pretty regular.
Yes i am 100% sure there will be more issues to come! The negative thing with AP is that there are not so many "fix it by doing.." yet, but many "fix it by buying" 😮

I've learned alot from just this post. I thank you guys alot @RolandKol, @vlaiv, @kens and @Adam J !

Edited by masjstovel
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/10/2019 at 15:49, masjstovel said:

As a bandage on the wound: My friend is 3D-printing a Bahtinov-mask for free ($1800 used - $20 saved :)

Got the 3D-printed Bahtinov mask today. Had to secure myself in both ends so both the flaps and the screw-holes. The flaps fitted perfectly. Now i just have to wait for clear skies to see if it works:)

20191016_232443.jpg

20191016_232456.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, masjstovel said:

Got the 3D-printed Bahtinov mask today. Had to secure myself in both ends so both the flaps and the screw-holes. The flaps fitted perfectly. Now i just have to wait for clear skies to see if it works:)

Wow :) thats a thick one! :)
I print mine twice slimmer ;)
I am sure, you will not need
screw-holes, - you can chop them off later on to save some space if needed.

And yes, - it will work 100%, - the main tool to have :)
And yes, it will also enable you to see how your focuser behaves once you lock it (APT Bahtinov aid or any other imaging software Bahtinov Aid is really handy with it).
So once you get your "perfect" focus, - lock the focuser and check the Bahtinov Aid figures again... Lets hope you will not have much tilt and figures will not run away a lot :)
To be honest, - "Locking" was my main pain while focusing Manually....
 

P.S. Make a habit to place B mask in the same manner, - it will enable you to learn the software and know which direction to turn the focus knob to get closer to focus.
For example, negative figure will mean - turn Left, and opposite. If you will keep swapping B mask position each session, your figures may mean different directions.

Edited by RolandKol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@RolandKol Speaking about focus. I got my ASI1600 today. And there is talk about this 55mm backfocus, which i dont understand. 55mm from what? I see from the picture of your setup that you have an OAG on. I dont. How would i attach all these rings in the focuser to get the correct "backfocus" ? I saw some drawings on ZWO homepage, but i dont get what is left in the focuser? Do i take away that adaptor which i had to loose and had to tighten which I mentioned earlier in the post, or what do i do?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, masjstovel said:

@RolandKol Speaking about focus. I got my ASI1600 today. And there is talk about this 55mm backfocus, which i dont understand. 55mm from what? I see from the picture of your setup that you have an OAG on. I dont. How would i attach all these rings in the focuser to get the correct "backfocus" ? I saw some drawings on ZWO homepage, but i dont get what is left in the focuser? Do i take away that adaptor which i had to loose and had to tighten which I mentioned earlier in the post, or what do i do?

As you do not have comma corrector, - no difference, - simply attach the longest spacer to the camera (or Filter Wheel if you have one) to get a good hold in the focus tube.

Once you will get Coma Corrector, - you will need to get camera and Coma Corrector in a close to perfect distance (55mm), and ZWO camera has all needed spacers for this in the box.

Edited by RolandKol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First result with the ASI1600! :) Fish head nebula IC 1795 (Yes i will need that autofocuser...)

191029 IC 1795.png

Edited by masjstovel
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, masjstovel said:

First result with the ASI1600! :) Fish head nebula IC 1795 (Yes i will need that autofocuser...)

Nice start! :)

And yes, Autofocus makes life much easier... especially in Mono.

What about your focus tube tilt? have you noticed any while locking the focus?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, RolandKol said:

Nice start! :)

And yes, Autofocus makes life much easier... especially in Mono.

What about your focus tube tilt? have you noticed any while locking the focus?

Thank you! 
You mean if i physically notice the tilt, or if i can see it resulted in the photos? It seems tight. The coma-corrector i bought is not threaded on the telescope side, so i'd have to have the locking screws anyways. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nope, I meant, -  if you noticed any focus change while you been using Bahtinov aid software and once you lock your focus by using the lock bolt shown in the pic.

On 17/10/2019 at 09:29, RolandKol said:

**********

So once you get your "perfect" focus, - lock the focuser and check the Bahtinov Aid figures again... Lets hope you will not have much tilt and figures will not run away/change a lot :)
To be honest, - "Locking" was my main pain while focusing Manually....
****************

 

Focuser.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 29/10/2019 at 00:11, masjstovel said:

First result with the ASI1600! :) Fish head nebula IC 1795 (Yes i will need that autofocuser...)

191029 IC 1795.png

Focus is fine in this image. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The focus has been steady during the shooting yes, but i havent shot with only the narrowbands yet, and i've heard the focus could be different between them.
In the photo I think the focus is "Ok", but not optimal. That is not because it has shifted i think but because its properly done. I used the Focus assistant - Contrast (edge) detection tool, and not the bahtinov. I got a tip on that, and i feel its a more science-based approach, since i get measurements on when the stars are smallest? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 09/10/2019 at 08:54, Adam J said:

To answer this you really need to know what type of targets you want to image. Because it matters for sensor selection. The asi1600mm pro is great but with your scopes focal length it's not really going to give wide field views of emission nebula. A friend uses his 150pds for detailed looks at smaller targets like the bubble nebula or Cresent or galaxy imaging. The other thing you will want to be aware of is that the focuser will not support a asi1600mm pro and filter wheel without some droop / flex and so it's hard to get good corners, from my personal experience with the 130pds. A smaller higher resolution sensor will be easier and more suited to imaging smaller targets in detail. For example you will get very good results on small galaxys with a asi183mm pro or even better a qhy178m and they will be good right to the corner, but I sence you want the bigger sensor in the expectation of trying to go for larger targets. That being the case consider dropping down to a 130pds as it's just that bit wider. I. Terms of filters I went with 1.25 mounted, they are good down to F4. 

Or drop down to something like a ed80.

Edited by Skyline

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Nikolas74
      As I am ready to invest in this new CMOS camera from ZWO the Asi2600mc pro , I am trying to understand why this camera will be better than a DSLR with a filter Infront....
      How this camera will give me better images ?
      I have used DSLR camera some years ago , when I was starting this hobby but after that I have been through mono ccd's , since the time I realized that unfortunately due to lack of time I can not continue with mono imaging and filters....
      So I am thinking to give it a try with a brand new, let's say technology of Color CMOS and see what I can get out of it....
      I see some really nice examples on the net but am I going to achieve them ?
      The Zwo Asi294mc pro widely used around the world is also very promising...Discontinued already as I hear...Amp glow issues....is it really so annoying ?cheaper than the new asi2600 MC pro by half price....
      So can someone persuade me that the Zwo Asi2600mc pro is better than the others ? 🤔
    • By KEJ
      Hi
      Can I please ask, is there anyone out there with the following or a similar setup to this:
       
      William Optics Z61 Scope + WO 61A Flattener + ZWO ASI533MC Pro (or other ZWO Camera) ?  
      Currently,  I have been using the following setup:
      William Optics Z61 Scope + WO 61A Flattener + Nikon DSLR
        However, by the end of the week I am hoping to have this new setup:
      William Optics Z61 Scope + WO 61A Flattener + ZWO ASI533MC Pro
        I was really just wondering how the more experienced out there had configured/connected their equipment together?
      How people connect their ZWO cameras to the flatteners?
      Are the flatteners still required with the smaller sensor cameras ?
      I was just wondering if anyone has any pictures of similar setups to above please (equipment trains)?
       
      Thanks in advance for any comments or advice.
    • By endlessky
      I have been waiting for this telescope for almost five months. Since May, 19th, to be precise. The day I went to the TS Italia store and saw for the first time the SLD model, model now discontinued. I even missed the last available piece just for a few days, once I finally placed my order, June, 25th. It was to be replaced by a newer model, available at the end of the Summer.
      Boy, am I glad I did miss it. The wait was definitely worth it. The new and improved model is simply beautiful. I fell in love with it as soon as I saw it on the Tecnosky website a few weeks ago, when they posted the product sheet. But in person, it's even more beautiful.
      So, the people from the store emailed me Friday, October the 2nd, telling me that it was finally available for pickup. I read the message only a whole hour later and it was soon going to be closing time. I started calling at 4:30 PM and I finally managed to get my phone call through at around 5:05 PM. The store closes at 6:00 PM and doesn't reopen until Monday. And it's 40 minutes away from where I live. I made it there in 35. There was no way I was going to have to wait till Monday, knowing my scope was only a few minutes away.
      So, here's the pre-unboxing picture:

      - top left, brown box, behind: Vixen clamp for guide-scope
      - top right, white box: 60mm f/4 guide-scope
      - top left, white boxes: T2 Nikon ring, 30mm spacer, adjustable spacer
      - center, behind white boxes: Optolong L-Pro 2" filter
      - right of filter: spacers mounted and already calibrated for 55mm backfocus, for eventual use of the ZWO ASI 224MC camera with the refractor
      - top right, Bahtinov mask
      - underneath the white boxes, top left: Losmandy bar to attach telescope to my NEQ6 Losmandy saddle
      - big box underneath all of the above: Tecnosky 80mm f/6 FPL-53 OWL Triplet, with carrying case and 0.8x 4 elements flattener/reducer
      - ZWO black case: ZWO ASI 224MC guide-camera / planetary camera
      - front left: Talisker 57° North and two glasses (don't mind the shape of the glasses, they are the closest to Whisky suitable glasses that I currently own...) ready for me and my wife to celebrate the end of the wait
      - front right: box for the aforementioned Whisky
      I actually waited for yesterday (Saturday, the 3rd) for the unboxing, because I wanted my best friend Omar to be present and help me with filming and taking pictures. We have been friends since we went to kindergarten and we always have had astronomy as a common interest.
      It just so happens, to my immense surprise, that my telescope is actually SN. 0001, so I own the first telescope ever produced of this new series. The certificate is also very promising, with a Strehl ratio of 0.974 and a Ronchi test that seems very well behaved. I like a little less the red edges on the lenses, but I guess only time and a proper visual - and astrophotographic - session will be able to tell.



      Obviously the "new equipment curse" didn't help, but we got almost a whole hour with clear sky patches and obviously I couldn't pass up the opportunity. I quickly setup with the bare minimum necessities for a visual observation and me, my wife and my best friend Omar - who helped with the staging, recording and directing of the unboxing event - took a quick look at the Moon, Saturn, Mars, M31 and Perseus Double Cluster.
      I can definitely understand now, even if the seeing wasn't perfect, and my eyepieces didn't offer enough magnification (25mm and 10mm give me 80x and 200x, with my C8, but with a native focal length of 480mm, even with a Barlow 2x, we could only achieve about 38x and 96x, respectively), what people mean when they say that an apochromatic refractor brings out the objects from the background sky. The contrast was stunning, the stars were absolute points, pinpoint, small and sharp (with my C8 they always have kind of a "blob" feeling), the contrast on the Moon was fantastic and I could see many details, despite it being almost full, and only at 48-96x. I think it passed the visual test with honors. I was also very happy to be able to see the Double Cluster all in the same field of view for the first time. Saturn was well defined, could clearly make out the rings - don't recall, in all the excitement, rush and cycling between me, my wife and my friend, if I saw the Cassini division, but I'll definitely try again next clear sky night. Mars was also beautiful, could clearly see its rusty red color, the polar cap and some darker, black features on the surface.
      I really can say it's a beautiful telescope, very well made and machined. The attention to details is really of another level, the paint finish is very nice and matte. Also very lovely all the different red and black anodized surfaces, they really give it a nice finish and personality. The focuser is also the best I have ever had on a telescope. Very smooth, precise, with no backlash. Coming from a C8 where every touch of the focuser throws off the image all over the place and the backlash is quite significant, I really appreciated how easy it was to fine tune focusing with a proper focuser, especially with the 10:1 focusing knob.
      I can't wait to be able to take the first pictures of some star field, to check if even photographically the telescope lives up to my expectations. I hope to get pinpoint stars corner to corner and that the backfocus won't be something too hard to make perfect.
      Here's some accessories.

      Optolong L-Pro 2" filter, Bahtinov mask, Losmandy dovetail to replace the Vixen one the telescope comes with, Nikon T2 ring and spacers to use the ASI 224MC with the correct backfocus directly on the telescope, instead of a guide-camera.
      Here's the 60mm f/4 guide-scome, with Vixen clamp.

      And the ZWO ASI 224MC guide-camera.

      Here's the mandatory celebration beer, at Corte dell'Orso (the Bear's Courtyard).
      It's a Belgian sour beer, lambic style. Oudbeitje by Hanssens Artisanaal, with added strawberries. A very nice beer, sour, tart and fruity. Could definitely taste the strawberries.
      Cheers!

      Here's a couple of pictures of the full setup, with everything mounted on my Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro.
      The setup is in its astrophotographic configuration: mount, telescope, guide-scope, guide-camera, filter, flattener/reducer and at the end the Nikon D5300 astromodified. All controlled by Astroberry on my Raspberry Pi 4 4GB, conveniently mounted on a bar across the two telescope rings.


      And finally a close up of the rig.

    • By johnnyvmass
      Question, is my pier out of level if I'm trying to PA (with asiair pro) and both directions are moving when I adjust the alt bolts? I can't get the mount polar aligned.
      Mount neq6 pro
      Pier mounted on a concrete slab
      OTA c8 with .63 reducer
      Camera asi294mc pro
      Zwo OAG
      Thanks in advance
    • By Padraic M
      How can I set up APT so that it always connects by default to my imaging camera? I have an irritating problem that APT will regularly connect to my guide camera, even though that camera is already connected in Phd2.
      I have created two APT shortcuts on the desktop, one specifying camera 2 (which usually is the guidecam) and the other specifying camera 1 (which is usually the imaging camera), but it looks like cameras 1 and 2 are not absolutely assigned to the ASI1600mm (imaging) and ASI290MC (guiding).
      At APT startup, in the log it will say 'Connected to ASI1600mm' and then imediately say 'sensor size 5.6mmx3.2mm'. Then I know I have a problem as it's obviously not the 1600! I can usually sort it out by disconnecting, Shift-Connecting (to get the camera selection dialog), and selecting cameras 1 and 2 until I get the correct sensor size.
      There must be a better way?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.