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Found 8 results

  1. Had a quick search but not found much info, I've just 'transitioned' from DSLR to a CMOS (AA 183C pro) Used to capture with APT or Backyard Nikon, save as RAW, DSS to stack and use autosave.tif to work on in Photoshop. Whats the general consensus on CMOS ? So far trying APT or Sharpcap, saving as FITS, stacking in DSS still and using autosave.tif into Photoshop. I keep seeing fits liberator mentioned ? Opinions gratefully received.
  2. Hi everyone, I've been beavering away on a couple of images, one of the Pacman nebula and this, my first Horsehead. Shot over several nights in my back garden. Terrible weather meant a big gap between imaging nights - it's amazing how you (or is it just me?!) forget the little details in just 8 or 9 days... Lum data is lacking a bit and I couldn't tame mighty Alnitak. But I like the result. Anyway, a number of firsts here - first completed image with the Lakeside focuser, first true tests of APT's recently added auto meridian flip (works great!) and first time using Astro Pixel Processor for calibration and stacking. APP is a contender - very easy to use - I threw all my multinight multifilter data at it and it chugged through it all with the minimum of fuss! 4.9 hours of HaLRGB data. L 108x15", R 41x60", G 84x30", B 81x30", Ha 35x250". Thanks for looking!
  3. Hi everyone, One and a half clear nights for me early in the year and I focused on M45. As a naked eye visible target, I think subconsciously I never gave M45 the concentration it deserves, thinking I could always catch it another time. Anyway, despite lusting after the Horsehead, I kept my refractor pointed at the seven sisters in new moon skies and the result is below. I actually found it pretty hard to process...the seven sisters themselves were pretty well behaved, but I couldn't decide what to do with the background. I know this is a dusty region so I did not want to put DBE samples everywhere. But at the end the background seems a bit smudgy after tweaking curves - I'm not sure whether to darken the background or leave it as is. 3.4 hours of LRGB integration. Full details on Astrobin. Thanks for looking!
  4. Hi all, Since a few days, I'm the proud owner of the asi1600 Pro. Performed some first tests, see: https://youtu.be/hHJBbpNoi2I I used SGP Pro to test cooling and dark frames (2m and 5m) on unity gain settings. Is it ok to use unity gain (139) setting or should I use high dynamic range? Also, this is my first mono. Do I need to take flats/bias frames for each filter separately? And how could I stack either broadband or narrowband images? I'm used to deep sky stacker. Cheers, Wido
  5. OK, so i am considering a long term move from my trusty DSLR to a pure astro cam. I sort of figured out the following things (just my opinion!): A DSLR like my Canon EOS 550D gives a large, decent sensor at an affordable price - zero (if you already own one). In order to really step things remarkably up, i'll probably have to go Mono and cooled - it does not make sense to shell out 4 figures for a small change. I would also like to go for the hubble palette- lets do it right the first try... This means that the investment for me will be at least camera + computer controlled filter wheel + 3 narrow band filters + who knows what else! If i go for the ASI 1600 cool, it looks like the total investment would be positively north of 2200 EUR/GBP- right? I'd love to have feedback from the community! PS.: lots of thanks to the SGL community- since i have started reading SGL, my astro malinvestments have gone down to zero (so far). Thanks again!
  6. Hi, I was asked on a Swedish forum to put an "Astronomical Dictionary" on my homepage. I have made a test page in an easy form. Astronomical related words linked to wikipedia. It aims to the beginners in astronomy so it should not be too complicated words. http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/astronomical-dictionary/astronomical-dictionary.html Let me know if it's useful and and I shall add more words. /Lars
  7. Hi, When boring times comes it could be both fun and interesting to do some calculations. This time I did an Excel sheet over the three cameras: Atik 16200, Canon EOS 6D and ZWO ASI1600. I have the Canon 6D and wanted to see how time efficient it is compare to the others. In the Excel sheet it's possible to setup data for the cameras and object information, light pollution and readout noise and max level that shouldn't saturate (clipp). At the end you see how many sub images it takes to reach a given S/N, Signal / Noise ratio. It also calculate the total exposure time and dead time between images. It only compare pixel to pixel, not that the sensor area or the pixel size is different. Take a look here where I have wrote it down if you find it interesting: http://astrofriend.eu/astronomy/tutorials/tutorial-camera-time-efficiency/tutorial-camera-time-efficiency.html It's very simple so don't expect it to be perfect but you can have a lot of interesting information from it if you test with different parameters. You can download the Excel sheet if you find it interesting. /Lars
  8. Which cooled mono cmos - 1600MM-Pro or QHY163m?? On the face of it there's little to distinguish between the two. Same sensor, similar price etc. I see the zwo has a 256mb buffer compared to the qhy's 128Mb but I can't see that would make any practical difference for longish exposure dso imaging. Both have amp glow suppression? Heated windows? Usb hub not a factor. I wouldn't be using with a filter wheel - just a filter drawyer with 2" Ha. Is there anything to distinguish between the two that might tip the balance?? Thanks for any replies Louise

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